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Old 03-01-2012, 10:18 PM   #16
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Removing poly and stain


Thanks eveyone. Very helpful info. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I don't think I'd qualify as skilled since I've only done refinishing and staining projects intermittently. : )

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Old 03-02-2012, 03:50 AM   #17
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Removing poly and stain


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Trying to get all the way back down to the bare wood would take far to long.
DO not use a stripper. Just sand with a random orbital sander with 80 grit paper and wipe it down. Prime with a bonding primer, then paint.



another gem form someone who knows nothing about painting
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:38 PM   #18
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Removing poly and stain


Thanks for all the helpful info. This is what I did.

I waited till 48 hrs and used a little electric finishing sander (not true hand sander) and started with a 120. It wasn't really doing much, so I changed to 80 grit. Went over beam and post with it then went over it with 120.

Cleaned post of dust.

Sunday- Used 2 coats of the Zinzer BIN (very runny stuff). Then used the same semigloss white latex as on trim.

I think it looks much better.

However, the pro's might enjoy my contractor's reaction: "You painted the beam!" I told him the stain just didn't work with door and trim. He said, "We would have painted it white if you'd told us you wanted it changed." (He tries hard to please.) I explained I couldn't ask him to change it since it had been my decision. Then he asked if I'd sanded.... so I told him what I'd done. Then he said, "I'll get my painter to fix it when they come for touch up...it can look better than that." Two days I worked.... Apparently, it needs caulking, etc.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ltd View Post
lightly sand fine sand paper ,then i would use zinsser bin primer this primer will seal any knots that will bleed through regular bonding primer and paint.for me i would spot prime any knots let dry then prime over the whole surface. after that caulk any gapes,fill nail holes , and paint with a quality paint
2nd this, definitely spot prime anything that bleeds through, I've skipped this step in the past and it was not good
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:02 PM   #20
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Removing poly and stain


Annie, I did. I just posted the results. Thanks though.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:07 PM   #21
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Removing poly and stain


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Originally Posted by canoes View Post
Thanks for all the helpful info. This is what I did.

I waited till 48 hrs and used a little electric finishing sander (not true hand sander) and started with a 120. It wasn't really doing much, so I changed to 80 grit. Went over beam and post with it then went over it with 120.

Cleaned post of dust.

Sunday- Used 2 coats of the Zinzer BIN (very runny stuff). Then used the same semigloss white latex as on trim.

I think it looks much better.

However, the pro's might enjoy my contractor's reaction: "You painted the beam!" I told him the stain just didn't work with door and trim. He said, "We would have painted it white if you'd told us you wanted it changed." (He tries hard to please.) I explained I couldn't ask him to change it since it had been my decision. Then he asked if I'd sanded.... so I told him what I'd done. Then he said, "I'll get my painter to fix it when they come for touch up...it can look better than that." Two days I worked.... Apparently, it needs caulking, etc.
Your general contractor offered the best quote to painters on this site in awhile. You must be joking with us? 80 grit will get er done. And I lied before. It is is perfect for any interior work if you cannot afford or find 60 or even 40 for wood trim. When I suggested changes to a job were needed, my best friends on this site rallied. When I mentioned 24,000 sf were added to the paint job Chrisn was willing to drop $200 of his bid and paint the extra for free.

You have a weird way of expressing my dear but the message you are sending is important? You have learned a valuable lesson. Or two. When I don't notice 150 or 120 doing anything I too cut back to grit a manly man would use. 40 or 60 grit is where I start with interior work and you can see it working attached to a nice orbital sander. Maybe not.

It can look better than that.

I am sorry but with never gay thoughts before, I want to marry your GC. And I may create bumper stickers. For painters.

It can look better than that!



Last edited by user1007; 03-05-2012 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:53 PM   #22
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Removing poly and stain


If I scratched some enamel with 40-60 and even 80 grit. the scrapes and swirls would show through 3 coats of enamel.
Maybe not so much on a beam that you can't see from 2' or closer away with good light, but on any trim, yes.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:04 PM   #23
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If I scratched some enamel with 40-60 and even 80 grit. the scrapes and swirls would show through 3 coats of enamel.
Maybe not so much on a beam that you can't see from 2' or closer away with good light, but on any trim, yes.
You sure? Fourth coat and Floetrol?

Using my, proven through time sanding system. Attached to cats paws. Yes I do make my animals work for a livin and if they eat with me, they grow to know they have to sand walls and woodwork.


Of course not, but if I could fit 60-80 grit sandpaper on to say the claws of of cat?

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