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Old 03-01-2012, 05:28 PM   #1
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Removing poly and stain


I'm having the basement of my little mountain house finished. They had to put up a beam across the ceiling for support. I really like wood and wanted a wood feature so the contractor covered it and the floor to beam supports with pine boards. They stained it today and applied poly.

Problem-the stain has some dark splotches (the painter said was due to the wood) and it just looks too rustic with the rest of the room's white trim. I'm really bad at figuring out how things will look before they are finished and am very disappointed but it was my choice, my fault.

Since I asked for the stain, I can't really ask them to change it so want to strip it and paint it white this weekend before the floors are done next week. Is sanding the best bet or should I use a stripper? I have 2 small hand sanders. Will those do or should I rent a better one?

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Old 03-01-2012, 05:36 PM   #2
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Removing poly and stain


Trying to get all the way back down to the bare wood would take far to long.
DO not use a stripper. Just sand with a random orbital sander with 80 grit paper and wipe it down. Prime with a bonding primer, then paint.

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Old 03-01-2012, 06:53 PM   #3
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Removing poly and stain


lightly sand fine sand paper ,then i would use zinsser bin primer this primer will seal any knots that will bleed through regular bonding primer and paint.for me i would spot prime any knots let dry then prime over the whole surface. after that caulk any gapes,fill nail holes , and paint with a quality paint
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:54 PM   #4
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Removing poly and stain


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Originally Posted by canoes View Post
They stained it today and applied poly.
Others please jump in, but unless using a combo jel stain with poly? You cannot stain and apply a surface coat in the same day. Ever?

You got had. Give the stain a chance. Then poly or whatever over it.

Last edited by user1007; 03-01-2012 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:13 PM   #5
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Removing poly and stain


Canoes, your wood is splotchy because pine requires a pre-conditioner, which enables a soft wood like pine accept stain uniformly. Apparently, your contractor was short on that knowledge. And SDS, I picked up on the stain and poly in one day as well. Buit, I don't agree on giving it time. Splotchy stain on pine is nasty looking.
Speaking of contractors short on knowledge, Joecaption, 80 weight paper has limited uses interior, that particular application wouldn't call for it. That, on an orbital sander, would do what you said he didn't need to do, strip it to bare wood. 80 cuts too deeply for most interior work. Ltd had it right, a finer paper, like 150, would do fine, especially since the poly is not cured. In fact, applying 123 over uncured poly probably wouldn't require sanding at all.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:25 PM   #6
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Removing poly and stain


Thanks for quick replies.
Well, I've been googling while I waited for responses here. I don't think they sanded it again and am pretty sure he didn't use a conditioner. They stained and did the poly about 3 hours apart. It's pretty ugly right now.

I thought about sanding and just putting a clear finish on it but am afraid since pine is so hard to finish, I might make it look worse.

It seems like everyone thinks sanding with an orbital sander with 150 grit is the best solution. I just have a little mouse and a little band sander but guess a orbital sander is in my future.

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Old 03-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #7
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Removing poly and stain


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80 cuts too deeply for most interior work. Ltd had it right, a finer paper, like 150, would do fine, especially since the poly is not cured. In fact, applying 123 over uncured poly probably wouldn't require sanding at all.
I am thinking the same. And from experience, I don't think you will be able to sand uncured poly in the first place. Get at it before it cures, unless intent on the wood look.

Not sure I would go so fine as 150 but I cannot imagine using 80 but to carve a giant chocolate Easter bunny for dinner with a an angle grinder in interior work I did.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:35 PM   #8
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Removing poly and stain


don't think you will be able to sand uncured poly in the first place. Get at it before it cures, unless intent on the wood look.

Sorry, I don't understand this.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #9
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I am thinking the same. And from experience, I don't think you will be able to sand uncured poly in the first place. Get at it before it cures, unless intent on the wood look.

Not sure I would go so fine as 150 but I cannot imagine using 80 but to carve a giant chocolate Easter bunny for dinner with a an angle grinder in interior work I did.
Alright, we'll split the difference, how about 120, but no lower.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:23 PM   #10
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Removing poly and stain


I'm voting to REPLACE the wood. The time and effort it will take to remove that stuff would be better spent going to the lumberyard and picking out some new wood and starting over. Better yet, the contractor and/or the painter should do that.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:28 PM   #11
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Removing poly and stain


Canoe- What the sanding will do is make a finely cut up surface on that poly giving the primer a better grip. It is not necessary to use a power sander at all- just a thorough sanding to break the gloss up. A med sponge sander will do this.
Sometimes some suggestions are a little heavy handed without thought about what is trying to be accomplished.
The cure part was if the poly isn't dry enough to make a bit of dust while sanding- it might be better to give it another day or two. I don't think full cure ( which can be several weeks) is needed.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:20 PM   #12
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Removing poly and stain


No power sander, thanks for catching that one BJ. Light sanding, just enough to dull the sheen.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:08 PM   #13
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Removing poly and stain


There is a third option- and if the stained look could be darker and that would be OK with you, a tint or stain could be put into a poly coat and do a 'masking " finish. Because it is already sealed, it can't get blotchier, but a coat or two of a tinted poly might look more even.
just a thought, and one that take a bit of skill...
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:10 PM   #14
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Removing poly and stain


[quote=Brushjockey;867846]There is a third option- and if the stained look could be darker and that would be OK with you, a tint or stain could be put into a poly coat and do a 'masking " finish. Because it is already sealed, it can't get blotchier, but a coat or two of a tinted poly might look more even.
just a thought, and one that take a bit of skill...[/quote]

some things are better left unsaid
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:16 PM   #15
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Removing poly and stain


[quote=jsheridan;867847]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brushjockey View Post
There is a third option- and if the stained look could be darker and that would be OK with you, a tint or stain could be put into a poly coat and do a 'masking " finish. Because it is already sealed, it can't get blotchier, but a coat or two of a tinted poly might look more even.
just a thought, and one that take a bit of skill...[/quote]

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