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Old 10-17-2013, 12:03 AM   #1
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Refinishing Front Door

I need to refinish my wooden front door and have some questions before I start. The stain on the door is faded and blotchy from water and wear, but other than that, it's in good condition.

I have a liquid deglosser from another project when I refinished my kitchen cabinets and want to know if I should use it on the door before I apply the new stain. If not, what product is recommended to prep the door before I restain it. Also, after I stain it, what kind of sealer should I use? One last piece of info, the door faces north and I live in southern California.



Last edited by chuck2112; 10-17-2013 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:51 AM   #2
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What I did with our front door, was sand it down, then use Marine grade stain, sanded the first coat with fine grade sand paper, wipe down, then apply a second coat. After it was dry, then I applied Marine grade Poly over it.

Since we have tinted film on the Storm door, you cannot really see the door, but the stain & poly held up real well to the heat, from the direct sunlight in the Morning from the East, before we applied the tint on the storm.

I used a Cherry tinted stain, because I wanted a dark red type tint. It came out real good. To apply it, I just used a 2" foam brush on the door, then after done redid the glass panes that were in it, since the glazing was all dried out.


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chuck2112 (10-17-2013)
Old 10-17-2013, 06:18 AM   #3
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You can not stain over a sealer.
It all needs to be sanded off.
Using a sealer like Bristol finish will give you far more years of trouble free use.
It has far more UV protection then and box store stuff.
Biggest mistake DIY's make is not apply enough coats of sealer, the more coats the longer the protection.
With Bristol it's possible to get up to three coats on in a day.
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:32 AM   #4
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The solution is simple albeit not what you may want to hear or do. If the finish is turning white, then the finish is no longer effective for protection. Now for the bad news, when I do a door I strip the old finish completely off, sand the surface, then stain it, then begin my clear coats.

I know Joe is high on Bristol finish (just a pun), and after all my years of using oil base it was difficult for me to even try acrylic products. I will never regret that move. The acrylic varnishes in my opinion out last oil base products by two to one. Again I need to say I’m not familiar with Bristol products.

I’ve seen and heard of people who apply three coats in a day. That’s nothing to brag about, it’s foolish. Allowing each coat a day’s drying time gives the next succeeding coat the opportunity to increase the mils for a thicker protective coating. Applying three coats in one day doesn’t increase the mils as much as the 24 hr dry time method only because each coat incorporates with the previous coat.

If for any reason you’re hesitant about oil base varnishes, you might want to look into General Finishes or ZAR products or Varathane. They all offer an exterior acrylic varnish. If I could show you the difference between the two products, you would not hesitate to use the acrylic coatings.
Best of Luck
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