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Old 04-09-2012, 05:37 PM   #1
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recoating old T-111


I've got an old sun blasted south facing ext. wall on my home, I wondered if I can "prime" it with elastomeric roof coating to fill the badly weathered siding. It is very rough & I don't want to replace it.

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Old 04-09-2012, 05:40 PM   #2
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recoating old T-111


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I've got an old sun blasted south facing ext. wall on my home, I wondered if I can "prime" it with elastomeric roof coating to fill the badly weathered siding. It is very rough & I don't want to replace it.
Go for it! Might be a good time to experiment. If all else fails, T-111 is inexpensive and you could replace it if this fails to give you a few more years of useful service.

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Old 04-09-2012, 09:35 PM   #3
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recoating old T-111


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I've got an old sun blasted south facing ext. wall on my home, I wondered if I can "prime" it with elastomeric roof coating to fill the badly weathered siding. It is very rough & I don't want to replace it.
Elastomerics are typically recommended for concrete and metal surfaces. Although they could be used on wood, the disadvantages often times outweigh any advantages and could actually do more harm than good. Elastomerics were originally designed for coastal environments, specifically on stucco, as water-proofing from wind driven rains. The fact that they have an elongation factor of up to 300% (without film breakage) allows them to "bridge" surface cracks up to about 1/8"...

Now, that sounds like it'd be just the ticket for painting (priming) badly weathered and sun blasted siding, but not necessarily. Elastomerics are not the same make-up as house paints. They go on at about 5 - 10 times the thickness of typical paints, and the fact that they are such good water-proofers are the same reason they don't work so well on wood surfaces - They are designed to keep outside moisture from penetrating to the substrate...unfortunately, they also don't allow much moisture from the inside a route of escape. Wood will always pass moisture, and if it can't pass through the paint film, it'll end up between the siding and paint film in the form of blisters. Since elastomerics can expand up to 300%, that then becomes some mighty big, basketball sized blisters. If the blisters burst open, it causes a loss of adhesion. If the blisters don't burst, then the water, incapable of entering back through the wood, stays wet against the surface, possibly for a long time...If it doesn't stay wet against the surface (in other words, if the water cannot be contained within the blister - but the blisters won't burst), then gravity will ultimately pull the water down the siding causing a loss of adhesion in it's path...

My advice would be to stay with a more conventional, high quality house paint system rather than an elastomeric (especially on a southern exposure) - Talk to your local independent paint dealer for his/her suggestions, and try to provide some type of sun screen (bushes, trees, etc.) to lessen the sun's affect on the siding and paint film.

Last edited by ric knows paint; 04-09-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:03 AM   #4
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recoating old T-111


That's an issue I had not thought of, Thanks for averting a costly mistake.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:17 PM   #5
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recoating old T-111


I agree, don't use Elastomeric paint or roof coatings. T-111 can be an almost foolproof surface to paint. You need a good primer to penetrate the wood. Elastomeric coatings tend to lay on the surface.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:21 AM   #6
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recoating old T-111


use a good wood primer then pain it!
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:32 AM   #7
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recoating old T-111


I've been using this with good results.
Pittsburgh Permanizer Plus Wood Stabiblizer
http://www.ppgpittsburghpaints.com/o...izer/index.htm
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:43 PM   #8
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recoating old T-111


Basketball sized blisters, run for them thar hills if one of them bursts

Bill, does your house have boils?
Too funny.

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