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Old 01-15-2010, 09:31 PM   #16
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Really Confused Please Help


So if I start over with a primer and then 2 top coats do you all think I should be ok?

Here is the spec sheet for the primer that was suggested. Does this look good and what I should use? Also what size nap roller should I use for the primer 3/4 or 1 inch? Also what size nape should I use for the paint 1/2?

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/web...ype=PDS&lang=E


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Old 01-15-2010, 09:35 PM   #17
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Any pictures of the walls ?
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Old 01-15-2010, 10:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprayboy View Post
Adequate preparation can make even Behr paint look good. Poor preparation can't make Aura look good. Paint will always follow contours. It's not Bondo! You need to start over.
I think I agree, But if whatever surface you suggest has sucked in 9-10 gallons of whatever and still will not sheen, the wall material itself better come off in the process too.
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Old 01-15-2010, 10:25 PM   #19
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The sheen of it looks fine and looks great until you start looking and then you can see that there isn't any texture/stipple on the butt joints and belly joints as well was around all the screw holes. The sheetrock paper shows as i think the paint just soaks. I have talked to a few places and they all seem to think it is because of a very poor primer. The sherwin williams rep even came over today and suggested the primer I showed before. When I put the primer on it wont cause the butt and belly joints to become more noticeable will it?
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPB View Post
The sheen of it looks fine and looks great until you start looking and then you can see that there isn't any texture/stipple on the butt joints and belly joints as well was around all the screw holes. The sheetrock paper shows as i think the paint just soaks.
Quote:
I have talked to a few places and they all seem to think it is because of a very poor primer.
The sherwin williams rep even came over today and suggested the primer I showed before. When I put the primer on it wont cause the butt and belly joints to become more noticeable will it?

Possibly. But the odds against us are 99.7 to 1.

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Old 01-16-2010, 06:29 AM   #21
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Start all over with a 1/2 in for both primer and paint.

POST PICS, something is still wrong, as posted it sounds like you have a huge sponge on the wall.
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Old 01-16-2010, 08:40 AM   #22
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what do you mean by Possibly. The odds are 99.7 to 1 against us?
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:01 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPB View Post
what do you mean by Possibly. The odds are 99.7 to 1 against us?
Ok. I am done commenting on this post after this. I have tried to help. You are not listening. I value my time. We have all told you what we think. You are just playing with us at this point and I have others more worthy to play with.

If you sucked 9-10 gallons of primer and paint into one room and you see no difference in texture from 1/2 or 3/4 inch roller covers? I don't know what to suggest but, that again, someone hung space alien sponge material instead of drywall. Take it down, get rid of it and start over.

Thought the Spock post hilarious by the way!

Last edited by user1007; 01-16-2010 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:21 AM   #24
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I would suggest after using that much paint in a basement to get plenty of fresh air and to make sure you are using a resperator next time going down there to paint.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:59 PM   #25
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I can't figure out why you can see the seams after 9 gallons of paint, but to answer your question of what size nap to use, I would say you were right the first time with 3/8". 1/2" would be fine too. But 3/4" or longer would put too much texture on your walls.
If that is what it takes to hide the taping job, maybe it was a bad taping job.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:04 PM   #26
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Quote:
maybe it was a bad taping job
.

Ding!Ding!Ding! I was wondering why that possibility was not brought up! Still does not explain all the paint.

Was it posted that paper could still be seen in places?? With all that paint?

Thats another thing, if it is soaking that much paint...something is very strange. I would think cardboard would be covered with less paint, or coming apart. Faulty board? China?

How does the field of the board look like? Anything added tot he mud?
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPB View Post
I am having problems in my new basement and am not sure what the cause is. Here is what is happening:

I had a taper come in to do all the muding and taping for my basement. I wanted him to do everything and all I had to do was paint. So he did and tells my that he put primer on and backrolled it. After he had primed I waited about a week and then sand down all the walls, then started to paint. I put 2 coats on of Hirshfields platnum ceramic eggshell ($40 a gallon) with the purdy white dove 3/8 nap roller. After putting these 2 coats on I realized that there was not stipple of teture building at all so because of that I could see every butt joint and the seam 54 inches down from the wall where they had put the joint compound on with the 10 inch knife.

Then I stopped and had a painter come in and told me that the purdy white dove doesnt build any texture and that I needed to use a 1/2 of 3/4 inch roller to build up the stipple to hide those areas. So I had him put a coat on with the 3/4 inch roller the other day and it helped a little by creating a little bubble but it didn't create any stipple at all. On top of this when i run my hand across the wall it feels extremely dry. When I run my hand across my walls upstairs it had a little bit of an oily feel. They are both the same paint. It is almost like when I put a coat on the wall it is soaking right in. I am not sure why this is happening. Please help.
You said "I had a taper come in to do all the muding and taping for my basement. I wanted him to do everything and all I had to do was paint. So he did and tells my that he put primer on and backrolled it. After he had primed I waited about a week and then sand down all the walls, then started to paint. "
The problem would be that you sanded. You were just supposed to paint the walls by what you say in your info. Which would mean the guy did what he said he would do by what I understand.
You sanded off the primer which would mean it would have needed to be primed again, it would no longer be sealed. Unless I'm not understanding correct? That's why the paint keeps soaking in especially around the tape lines where there would be more mud. You would need to prime it again so it would seal, I'm not sure though if there would be a problem now because of the large about of paint??
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I found out from my taper it was glidden primer.
Did you meantion to the taper that you sanded it down. I'm surprised he didn't catch that.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:55 PM   #29
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Seems it would take some rough sanding to remove primer/sealer from the rock tot he extent that it would no longer be sealed.

But that being said, I got some rock from HD once that acted funny. Almost like it was wet when I primed and sanded it. Some places looked flat or roughened. even with 2 topcoats.

Seems like someone a while back on ct mentioned rock being shipped to soon and not being dried properly.

Last edited by boman47k; 01-22-2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:30 PM   #30
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Well if the taper just put one coat on, I can see that happening. He says "that I could see every butt joint and the seam 54 inches down from the wall where they had put the joint compound on with the 10 inch knife. " Sounds like where the mud was. I know someone had told me once when i was trying to do the mud work that if I put a coat of primer over it i would be able to see where the imperfections were. Which I did and then would sand those spots. But I was to to make sure I sealed it good after or it would show because the mud would suck the paint in and it would easily be spotted. That's why I was thinking it was maybe from the sanding.

Yes I saw that about it not being dried properly, that would be horrible if that was the case. I think maybe SBP you should check with the store you purchased it from, or the manufacture to see if they have any type of recall or other complaints. If that's the case I would be asking for a refund and maybe more. Not saying you'll get it, but it can hurt to ask if the material wasn't good.

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