Re-caulk and Paint - advice appreciated
OK, so I sold my home and bought a nice new condo. I had a basement & now I am on a slab. The problem is the caulking between the formica backsplash & drywall in both the kitchen and one bathroom. It has to be changed.
I bought Big Stretch because in summer all is well but in freezing winter it becomes an ugly, ugly split crack. I wonder if they used the wrong type of caulk? So, here's my questions. Right now, I'm working very hard to get the old caulk gone. It was done very sloppy and up on the wall to far and sure doesn't look professional at all.
I am working at getting the old caulk off, the hard way. Then do I paint first or do I put fresh caulk first? I read where this caulk stretches but the paint won't and it may crack again because of that?
Should I use the masking tape method to caulk? Does it work? Everyone I ask says they're lousy at caulking. (no help there). I've done it around a set in sink and it was very nice but never this much.
Did I pick the wrong time to do this? In winter it has obvious crack but in summer it goes back together. I am hoping this Big Stretch will go with the flow and not show the crack. But I purposely waited until the cold formed the split. Should I wait and do it when it's warm and goes back together?
I'm getting too old to be climbing ladders so I might have the painting done but it is a small room and I've always done my own painting because I am fussy about trim and edges. I want a pretty caulked job and nice fresh colors. I just had them use white for starters. It's a pretty new condo but the workmanship and quality of things is a shocker.
Sorry for all the questions but I want to do this the best possible way.
Thanks very much,
I think now would be the right time. Yes the tape method works really well if you are unsure of yourself. Although others may tell you it's unnecessary.
The biggest mistake people make when caulking is they cut the tip too big, then they end up with a big glob and a mess. Cut the end off the tube just big enough to get get something in to puncture the seal, so also use something small to puncture it. This makes it a lot easier to control with a lot less clean-up. Then go over it with a wet finger to smooth it and clean any boo boos while it's still wet
Painting over the caulk won't cause the caulk itself to crack, but the paint may crack on top of it if there is a lot of movement.
Big stretch is good stuff but very slow to dry. If you do decide to paint over it, to be safe, give it a full 24 hrs to dry before painting with latex. (Longer for oil paint)
Tool gave some good advice on running the bead. The only thing I would add is if some of the gaps are really large it can be easier/neater to fill them twice instead of trying to do it all at one time.
Taping can work, but its a little tricky. You need to pull the tape while the caulk is still wet, and if there is too much of the bead smeared out on the tape, it can leave a jagged line when you pull it.
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