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Old 09-22-2008, 11:10 AM   #1
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Questions about paint prep for exterior cedar siding.


Alright guys, I have read quite a bit about paint prepping the outside of my house.

The old paint is failing, I have no idea how old it is but its peeling in some areas and bubbled in others. On the sides of the house that were in the shade the damage is much less prevalent.

I have powerwashed the area I am working with, and it is very clean. So thats a good start. I have been doing some scraping. I read online that I need to remove all paint thats not firmly adhered. Now I am very unclear as to the definition of firmly adhered.

I am used to dealing with automotive paints etc.. that have a kung fu like grip.

Now my theory here is that the paint is firmly adhered if I am scraping with a putty knife and it peels off in flat sections and "tears". Paint that needs to come off chips away in flakes.

Am I off base here? I don't want to add alot more work than is really needed. I will feather the hard edges back with a power sander, spot prime then paint (unless I go to a primer/paint setup).

Does anyone have any real world tips for me? The house is about 35 years old. I can provide photos if that helps.

Sorry about the noobish question but I was working on it and it occurred to me that I didn't know if I was tackling this the right way for best balance of elbow grease and long lasting work.

I am changing the house from blue to brown.

Thanks ! - Evan

After reading 50 pages of paint advice it looks like I am on the right track. I had planned on using Behr, I will be visiting my SW rep in a half hour during lunch.


Last edited by 240sx4u; 09-22-2008 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 09-22-2008, 01:39 PM   #2
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Questions about paint prep for exterior cedar siding.


Easily peeling off in any form (chips or sheets) is bad. Properly adhering paint is virtually impossible to remove without damaging the surface underneath. If your scraper can remove the paint in sheets without working too much at it, I'd say it isn't adhering real well. The only difference between the chips and sheets is probably the chipping paint is less flexible than the sheeting paint. Either one can be a sign of poor adhesion.

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Old 09-22-2008, 01:42 PM   #3
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Questions about paint prep for exterior cedar siding.


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Originally Posted by sirwired View Post
Easily peeling off in any form (chips or sheets) is bad. Properly adhering paint is virtually impossible to remove without damaging the surface underneath. If your scraper can remove the paint in sheets without working too much at it, I'd say it isn't adhering real well. The only difference between the chips and sheets is probably the chipping paint is less flexible than the sheeting paint. Either one can be a sign of poor adhesion.

SirWired

Yikes, in hindsight it seemed like I may have been peeling off a super thin layer of wood too. Ill take pictures of the paint chips that I didn't eat and post em up later.

I am concerned I am being too aggressive now!

Evan
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:33 PM   #4
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Questions about paint prep for exterior cedar siding.


Basically if you see a bit of a gap between the wood and old paint, no matter how small then keep scraping. You don't want to damage the wood if you can help it. I usually use a large titanium blade scraper to bust loose the majority of the loose paint and then go back with a 5-in-one and get the finer stuff. I don't think your putty knife is the best tool to use.

If you are scraping up the wood or made a lot of splinters, go back with some 60 or 80 grit sand paper and smooth it out. You can even use a palm sander if you want. Once you are done, you are really going to want to use a good oil based primer. I like the Zinsser All Prime (Also labeled Stain Block) as it dries really quick and can even be sanded if necessary. Contrary to some beliefs you really only need to "spot prime" meaning only the bare wood where you scraped. I have worked for a few people who insist on a full coat of oil primer, but that is really only necessary if you are changing the color much or if the paint is really chalky. Paint will almost always stick to older paint so priming everything just for the heck of it is overkill. You power washed so you should be in really good shape. I like to put a medium to thin coat on at first in one area and then go back over it again once the primer has soaked into the bare wood a bit and it gives me a really good coat of primer. Too thin a coat and the paint won't really have too much to grab on to other than the wood. Also prime any stained areas or any other suspect areas. Now topcoat with a good quality paint and you should have a job that will last for years.
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:46 PM   #5
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Questions about paint prep for exterior cedar siding.


Thanks for the reassurance, I didn't work on it tonight at all after work since its clear I didn't know what I was doing.

I will be more gentile, I have been going at this way too hard. I plan on feathering edges and sanding bare wood with a palm sander.

I will be visiting Sherwin Williams tomorrow.

Thanks - Evan
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