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Old 03-02-2013, 01:32 PM   #31
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Priming walls


Gary, I read your recommended reading, but didn't see any reference to red chalk, was there a connection to your two points. I know chalk on a wall is a biatch to deal with, but don't think it would hurt as a compound tint, do you?

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Old 03-02-2013, 02:16 PM   #32
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I've used chalk to tint mud for years.It works fine just don't over do it.All you need is enough to show up.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:21 PM   #33
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On OSB and plywood, red chalk is permanent. Haven't tried it on drywall though I know ink from a pen shows through with many box store paints. The reading link was showing the sand marks should be sanded/sponged out, never showing. It appears to be a very poorly done finish with so many imperfections showing, not a Level 4; http://www.lafarge-na.com/GA-214-07_English.pdf

Skim coat as suggested if the OP is unable to feather or smooth the surface imperfections. I think that is a pretty rough surface to expect a coating to smooth under a strong perpendicular light, IMO. Tape lines even...

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Old 03-03-2013, 09:33 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesRW View Post
As an update, we had to order the Super Spec 270 from our BM dealer - they shipped it from Chicago, but we had it in 2 days. (to Mpls.) Available only in 5 gal. size - retailed at $130, but we got it on our "project discount card" for $77, so a decent price!
We have cut and rolled the first coat of it. It does alot for the poor finishing job that was left on the sheetrock.
The new sheetrock areas were finished by the father of this father/son team, and weren't horribly bad, so we may leave it at one coat.
We had another room that required a lot of repair and then skim coating, where the son did the "final finishing". It's a poor job with pocking, sanding grooves, etc. We are spackling any problem areas, and then going to roll a second coat of the SS 270.
We will post again with the results.
We have finished applying all 5 gallons of the SuperSpec 270. It is a good product and we will use it again (minus the lazy sheetrockers!!)
It does have a 4.2 mil thickness when dry. It completely filled in all the sanding grooves. It also filled in areas of small pocking when I "worked it in" using a 4" roller with a larger nap. There are so many of these, I will need to go back with a light and fill in more, but the amount of improvement MINUS more sheetrock dust is significant, plus it serves as the primer coat for barely any more $$.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:31 PM   #35
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Priming walls


Pocks and all kinds of fish eyes are showing up after
priming with an airless system.

The final coat of mud that was used was dust control cgc.
Do i have to skim coat the entire wall or do something else
to prevent this from happening.

What could have gone wrong?
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:38 PM   #36
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So after all that talk about rollers you just blew it with an airless? and I bet you didn't backroll..

Pocks have been explained as air holes in the mud- not unusual and taken care of after the prime.
But fish eyes are usually a problem of enamel on another hard sealed finish with some kind of contaminate. On mud it is almost unheard of.. more info..
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:27 PM   #37
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PVA (Polyvinyl acetate) is a clear resin that paint primers are made from. PVA resin, when brushed out, feels rubbery. How each manufacturer builds from there is why some painters love PVA wall sealers and some do not.

We add rust-inhibitors, anti-microbials, defoamers, etc. and a heavy pigment load to provide a surface that seals, covers in one coat and allows the roller to move without sliding. Our market on the West Coast demands a high-performing PVA and I regret I can't reach out across the internet and give some of you a free sample. We sell hendreds of thousands of gallons of our PVAs and the pros always come back for more. Does it cost more? Probably, but the economy of any product is the quality itself.

So, when I recommend a PVA for new gypsum-board drywall, please understand I may be recommending a better product than you have available to you.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:20 PM   #38
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hey brushjockey,
found out what the problem was:
the mudder took his money and ran,
the mugger did not use a vacuum nor brush off with rags/sponges on
the drywall butt joints etc..
So now, all walls was wiped clean of dust, spray aired with compressor,
super vacuumed and re-mudded all the imperfections.
All is good now. thanks and airless works like a charm.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:27 PM   #39
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For a closet that has drywall under the stairs that contains a
furnace, is it ok the just zap a couple of coats
of bullseye primer and call it a day ?
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:48 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeo View Post
For a closet that has drywall under the stairs that contains a
furnace, is it ok the just zap a couple of coats
of bullseye primer and call it a day ?
Yup......as long as you're happy with it.....Bullseye leaves a slight sheen so it almost has a paint-like finish to it. I left my hallway that way and never got paint on it......that's been 5 years ago, it looks fine, and the earth did not cease to exist because of it.

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