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Old 02-07-2013, 06:53 PM   #16
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Thanks Grant, I fixed the links. I only found two broken ones on outside web sites.
Hey, microscope jokes , it's a rough crowd. I went to the same high school as Rodney Dangerfield, after we sacked the quarterback, we went after his family.
I looked again. It must have been only two not three links cause Id already seen two of them.
I was afraid that the microscope joke might have hurt his feelins. It would have hurt mine if I was looking at that drywall! You devil

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:42 AM   #17
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Try to get the walls the best you can before a prime. The light would be overkill but look at the walls from all angles. The pinholes are called pocks. These are caused from drywall dust getting balled up in the mix and then sanded down to. You really just waist your time looking for the mistakes when they will be easy to find and easy to fix after the prime.
Really? If it's caused by dust, how do you account for "pocks" on the first coat of mud? There is no dust at that stage to "get balled up in the mix". How about air bubbles? Do you sand between coats of spackle?
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:03 AM   #18
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The mudding was done by someone else.
The pics were taken more than 12 inches away.
I can see all the drywall problems without
without using a scope.
Haven't used a scope in ages, but remember it
was used along for dissecting a frog
and was really pretty gross in school.
Going to the store to get 220 grit and 320 and work some magic.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:37 PM   #19
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Going to need a priming roller 9",
what's good since this is way too confusing...
and using bulls eye 123.
Thanks.

1/2 nap Purdy WhiteDove - for all paints & finishes
Semi-smooth surfaces - roller 6.27depot

1/4 nap Purdy WhiteDove - for all paints & finishes
Very smooth surfaces - roller 5.77depot

1/2 nap wooster pro classic - priming roller
smooth to light texture surface - roller 5.98lowes

1/2 nap purdy whiteDove 4.89sw
1/4 4.49sw
3/8 4.69sw
xx various sizes, contractor series polyester roller cover
at sherin williams store
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:24 AM   #20
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1/2 nap purdy whiteDove 4.89sw
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:47 AM   #21
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Never cared for Purdy covers
my choice:
1/2 nap wooster pro classic - priming roller
smooth to light texture surface - roller 5.98lowes
Just a matter of personal taste, whatever you use get 1/2 inch cover and don't go cheap.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:06 AM   #22
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Never cared for Purdy covers
my choice:
1/2 nap wooster pro classic - priming roller
smooth to light texture surface - roller 5.98lowes
Just a matter of personal taste, whatever you use get 1/2 inch cover and don't go cheap.

Not a fan either but missed the wooster, which (out of the list) would also be my choice

http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster_50_50_p/r295.htm
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:53 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by georgeo View Post
The mudding was done by someone else.
The pics were taken more than 12 inches away.
I can see all the drywall problems without
without using a scope.
Haven't used a scope in ages, but remember it
was used along for dissecting a frog
and was really pretty gross in school.
Going to the store to get 220 grit and 320 and work some magic.
I've been following this thread, and have the same type of problems shown in Georgeo's pics. When I pointed out the sanding grooves and pock marks, the drywaller told me I was just too picky and quit.
Wondering if anyone here has used BM SuperSpec 270 and what kind of results they had with it.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:07 AM   #24
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It's probably better that he did James, unbelievable. I've never used the 270 but I reviewed the TDS (technical data sheet) and it seems like that's exactly what it's spec'd for. I've never had any doubt about BM products. I'd try it.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:57 PM   #25
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Hoping to borrow an airless sprayer or an hplv,
can i use this with the bulls eye 123 ?
Does the primer have to be thinned out? Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:14 PM   #26
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It's probably better that he did James, unbelievable. I've never used the 270 but I reviewed the TDS (technical data sheet) and it seems like that's exactly what it's spec'd for. I've never had any doubt about BM products. I'd try it.
As an update, we had to order the Super Spec 270 from our BM dealer - they shipped it from Chicago, but we had it in 2 days. (to Mpls.) Available only in 5 gal. size - retailed at $130, but we got it on our "project discount card" for $77, so a decent price!
We have cut and rolled the first coat of it. It does alot for the poor finishing job that was left on the sheetrock.
The new sheetrock areas were finished by the father of this father/son team, and weren't horribly bad, so we may leave it at one coat.
We had another room that required a lot of repair and then skim coating, where the son did the "final finishing". It's a poor job with pocking, sanding grooves, etc. We are spackling any problem areas, and then going to roll a second coat of the SS 270.
We will post again with the results.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:22 PM   #27
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You might find that beside sanding out some minor sander grooves, it will be easier to find imperfections and fix after the prime. You'll find more anyway.

Here's a little trick- On mud t/ups after the prime, if you have a little chalk line chalk- throw just a little into a small container ( enough to do the t/ups) of taping compound. Will color it just enough so you can find them when dry to sand and spot prime. White on white is easy to miss.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:26 PM   #28
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Hoping to borrow an airless sprayer or an hplv,
can i use this with the bulls eye 123 ?
Does the primer have to be thinned out? Thanks.
I'm not one of the experts here, but if this info is any help: we are using an HVLP to spray our trim. Tried spraying 123, but did not have good results with it at all!
I've detailed our experience with that:

HVLP - Learning Curve!!

We are living in our home, and working at our own pace, but even the HVLP requires significant masking, taping off, and painter's plastic.
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:06 PM   #29
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Never thought of the chalk, though I've used a drop or two of black tint before.
James, thanks for the testimony of the learning curve and the inconvenience of spraying in an occupied home. That comes up a lot here. I've bookmarked that page for future reference.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:49 PM   #30
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Don't use red chalk powder, IMO. Pages 383 and 384; http://www.usg.com/documents/constru.../chapter12.pdf

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