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Old 11-28-2013, 05:30 PM   #16
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Primer / Sealer question for new drywall


It may sag after you apply a water-based finish, even minimum code requires 3/8" drywall- upgraded to 1/2" if a finish is added; footnote "d"; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par010.htm

No idea what type of insulation/vapor barrier you have under the drywall but most basements should not use a low perm paint as Zinsser 123 for your location;
"If basement wall systems are designed and constructed to dry to the interior – regardless of where insulation layers are located – interior vapor barriers must be avoided. This precludes interior polyethylene vapor barriers installed over interior frame wall assemblies or any impermeable interior wall finish such as vinyl wall coverings or oil/alkyd/epoxy paint systems." From; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ts?full_view=1

Zinsser 123; 0.4 perms- a vapor retarder (semi-impermeable); http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja

1. What is the wall make-up in front of the concrete?

2. Do you have an egress door or lower windows?

Gary

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Old 11-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Gary in WA View Post
1. What is the wall make-up in front of the concrete?

2. Do you have an egress door or lower windows?

Gary
1) 2" XPS glued directly to the walls. Unfaced R13 in the bays. Spray foamed top and bottom.

2) Nope. Just a few basement windows.

Last edited by tommyxv; 11-28-2013 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:03 PM   #18
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Primer / Sealer question for new drywall


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Originally Posted by Gary in WA

No idea what type of insulation/vapor barrier you have under the drywall but most basements should not use a low perm paint as Zinsser 123 for your location;
"If basement wall systems are designed and constructed to dry to the interior – regardless of where insulation layers are located – interior vapor barriers must be avoided. This precludes interior polyethylene vapor barriers installed over interior frame wall assemblies or any impermeable interior wall finish such as vinyl wall coverings or oil/alkyd/epoxy paint systems." From; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ts?full_view=1

Zinsser 123; 0.4 perms- a vapor retarder (semi-impermeable); http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja



Gary


























Gary, the link provided goes to TDS for Zinsser BIN. An alcohol based primer that is used as a vapor barrier.
Looking at the TDS for the water based 123, I'm not seeing a perm rating.
I wonder if it is also semi -impermeable.
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:27 PM   #19
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Primer / Sealer question for new drywall


I really don't see a problem with sagging since the 1/4 is only on the soffit.
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:14 PM   #20
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1/4" is only for double layer application OR over existing wall. You may/not have a problem but the manufacturer recommends using 1/2" rather than 1/4" or 3/8" on wood/steel framing; pp.2- http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG/U...s-en-SA927.pdf You may not have any sag problems..... the low fire-resistance (below minimum fire-codes) could be reason enough for H.O. Insurance carrier to dismiss a claim- especially with the paper trail left here.... not worth my opinion, just keep the facts in mind. Against building codes, against fire codes, against manufacturers requirements.... three strikes is enough for me, but I use "lightweight" 1/2" overhead as am older now..... lol, especially on a mechanical chase.

Extensive further research and not much info on perms. I figure, if it is a stain, sap, tannin and asphalt coating blocker, it is low perm.

This link mentions some perm ratings on the two and directs one to use the much stronger BIN for stain blocking; http://www.rustoleum.com/search-resu...0perm%20rating I'll try the 800 # on Monday as the TDS (in red print) below the Adobe reader box just shows it blocks everything from showing through, and no perm rating as you mentioned. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...r-base-primer/

Do you have a link to that foam board?

Gary
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:40 PM   #21
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@Gary. Sry I don't. Probably on Lowe's website though.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Moving on to the next thing.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:40 PM   #22
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No problem, may be too late anyway.... I tried to view your pics on the other link but requires membership....

The foam board should be unfaced except above grade and to the "frost line" below grade, otherwise the moisture is forced down the wall to possibly pool at the bottom..... Fig. 12; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja

Wish you started your remodel on our site for help we could give you. Later, Gary
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:39 AM   #23
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No problem, may be too late anyway.... I tried to view your pics on the other link but requires membership....

The foam board should be unfaced except above grade and to the "frost line" below grade, otherwise the moisture is forced down the wall to possibly pool at the bottom..... Fig. 12; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja

Wish you started your remodel on our site for help we could give you. Later, Gary
I did... Was led to believe non-foil faced 2" XPS was the way to go along with 2" XPS sealed with spray foam around it in the rim and bad joists.

faced or unfaced
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:58 PM   #24
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You are fine on the foam board, I may have been confusing you with another post that showed faced XPS with the Lowe's logo on it. Sorry. Following our advice in the linked thread is good....

Gary
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:33 PM   #25
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You are fine on the foam board, I may have been confusing you with another post that showed faced XPS with the Lowe's logo on it. Sorry. Following our advice in the linked thread is good....

Gary

Good. You had me very worried.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:44 AM   #26
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Primer / Sealer question for new drywall


Follow-up...

Called Rustoleum on the perms for Bulls-eye; no rating because the test is expensive and if you need to stop moisture use their water-proofer- not this product. Said; what if already drywall and bare concrete-- need the wall to breathe out; is it permeable- answer- "yes", how much? answer; "no idea. If you need to stop moisture use the BIN product. The bulls-eye is not perm rated because one doesn't need the rating for application. The perms are not important on that product, only on the BIN where you do want to stop moisture and by how much." OK.... thanks for the answer, sorry you couldn't help me more. Yet it does cover stains and other---- IMHO, I would use another product like a latex paint on drywall as BSC recommends on all their basement systems with a frame wall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ent-insulation

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...r_code_changes

Gary

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