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Old 03-20-2007, 09:31 PM   #16
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popcorn removal


I scraped the popcorn off our master bathroom ceiling, and will be doing it in the bedroom as well. It sucks, but I must admit, its easer then painting it! I used a spray bottle with soapy water and a wide putty knife. Its a messy, thankless job while doing it, but all popcorn must goooo!!!!

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Old 03-21-2007, 05:24 AM   #17
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FWIW:

Here are some pics I was able to take of a basement stair wall where we scraped some popcorn off and skim coated it smooth. We just finished this on this past Monday. The Home Owner had hired some goofs to remodel the basement ..... and we ended up having to finish it up, so they were on a limited budget.
Normally, we will skim over the whole wall. They opted to just have a minimal area or transition. I leveled and marked the locations on each side of the stairwell identically with a pencil line. Scraped the popcorn off (about a 10" area under the wood strip). Then applied one skim coat. Installed the pre-primed 1/4" wood strip along the transition. Applied a 2nd skim coat and then sanded when dried. Went back and 'touch-up' any little irregularities. Caulked tops and bottoms of the wood strip too.
(Caulking would have come out smoother, but they get cold sitting in the back ofthe truck in winter - and I didn't have the time to warm it up in hot water) It was suggested to the home owner to paint the wood strip and the wall areas under it the same color as the new walls in the basement remodel.

Left side (Prior to stair rail installation):


Right side:


(FWIW: We had to re-do alot of the framing that the other guys did; They did not properly frame the stairwell wall to leave room for wood skirt boards - I hate that, so we had to bring the sheetrock directly down to the steps)

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-21-2007 at 05:37 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:41 AM   #18
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popcorn removal


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Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
... (Caulking would have come out smoother, but they get cold sitting in the back ofthe truck in winter - and I didn't have the time to warm it up in hot water)
I ran into the same thing when the weather truned cold and I was trying to use construction adhesive.

When you go home in the evening take the caulk indoors with you. In the morning put them in a plastic cooler and put that in the truck with you. It will keep them warm for quite a while.

When that didn't work well enough, I drilled a hole in the side of a junk cooler, fastened a plastic light socket to the side and put a 25W light bulb in it. Plugged it in and that would keep the tubes warm all night.

Rip
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Old 03-30-2007, 11:14 AM   #19
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......Just kidding....Hey That a good tip...
just ran across this post , I had been lost in.... DIY wonderland,
Did you ever get the pic's... ... Just couldn't resist,(of the kitchen), LOL .
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:22 PM   #20
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Funny thing is My popcorn ceiling had no problem being removed when I decided to paint it with a thick paint roller filled with paint, it was rolling right off onto the roller (after a second pass with the roller, while wet) , exactly what I didn't want.. Maybe you should do the same. hee hee..obviously I was extremely careful with the painting technique after that. I think the trick is to dampen the ceiling quite a bit, use a thick roller (keep rolling it over and over) make sure its very wet and use a wide scraper thereafter, working in small sections, being careful not to nick the ceiling.(funy thing is when I tried to repair the area with what i had on hand, (joint compound), it was also was able to seep through and make the popcorn more pliable, so it was also making it easiy to remove while wet,..
But I do agree., New sheetrock would be easier,(I hate popcorn ceilings), best way to paint it is with a sprayer, (using a very good mask and lots of protective plastic covering everything) and that is no party either. Hmmmmm, I wonder if a wet sanding (sponge) block would help? Good luck, I don't envy you, But I do feel for you...
Yes when you are putting latex over an unpainted popcorn ceiling you can not back roll to much, it will do as you said pull the texture off.
As far as the original post: It clearly sounds like it has been painted before. Either do as Joe suggested, scraping off the top layer so the water can absorb into the texture. Or screw up the new rock. Either one requires a good bit of work.
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Old 04-01-2007, 04:57 PM   #21
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why anyone would put latex on an unpainted pocorn ceiling is mind-boggling,Flat oil with a split foam roller (needs to be soaked for a minute) takes less material and is relatively easy(compared to latex) Everything needs to be covered and left covered until dry (one to two hours) because little tiny specks will fall
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:22 PM   #22
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well hi there everyone....new to the forum and happy to be here! I have a question for this thread and did not want to start a whole new one as I know that can be annoying to everyone so here goes..

I have a job like this coming up soon...I was actually planning to just use a wide putty knife and scrape off the popcorn from the ceiling itself...I realize I will have some serious mudding to do obviously..my question is, when I tested it I just used a knife and it came off very easily...is it neccessary to use water at all? I mean if it is VERY old, and just flakes off, is there danger in scraping and then mudding and then painting?

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help....
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:48 PM   #23
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...is it neccessary to use water at all? I mean if it is VERY old, and just flakes off, is there danger in scraping and then mudding and then painting?
Hi,

To answer your questions:

If it is coming off easily, there is no need to use water.

Also, no, there is no danger at all in just scraping it, coating with compound, sanding, priming and then painting.

The picture in this thread that I posted earlier is done precisely with the steps listed because the popcorn was in the same condition as what you described.

Good Luck.
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:52 PM   #24
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awesome, thanks for the speedy reply friend
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:22 PM   #25
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One reason you might want to consider using water, especially if it is old popcorn is asbestos. I dont know what year they stopped using it in popcorn, but better safe then sorry, wet it down and wear a respirator!
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:32 PM   #26
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One reason you might want to consider using water, especially if it is old popcorn is asbestos. I dont know what year they stopped using it in popcorn, but better safe then sorry, wet it down and wear a respirator!
Chances are that it is not Asbestos since, it would have been legally required that this information be made known or disclosed to you prior to working on any property...
Basically....unless it is a complete dump, old building, neglected home, slum, or piece of junk foreclosure.....the chances are slim...


You can check Wikipedia for more info. on Asbestos:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestosis

Cautions:

http://www.cdc.gov/elcosh/docs/d0100...8/d000028.html

.... and its use in construction (Use was stopped around 1980):

http://www.cpwr.com/hazpdfs/hazasbes.pdf

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 04-11-2007 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:09 AM   #27
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thanks for the heads up....yeah i actually have already gotten with the person I am working for, and they are pretty sure its straight but have agreed to get a third party to come in and verify before I go in there....

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