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Old 04-20-2013, 01:08 AM   #16
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


Also jsheridan, i will scuff sand the flats......for as long as i can stand it. Thx.

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Old 04-20-2013, 03:39 AM   #17
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


[QUOTE=package81;1163183]Jsheridan and crisn... thx for the suggestions and the peace of mind that my plan is not totally absurd. I will look into the bulls eye 123. Question: did you just suggest the 123 because of its better bonding properties? Or do you think it will spray better/smoother? I think what im looking for here is the lowest viscosity oil based bonding primer possible. That seems like the properties that make for good sprayability. That is why i decided on the cover stain. Maybe that was wrong? Is 123 less viscous thatn cover stain?

I also looked into bulls eye oil based bonding primer. I dont think its a 123 product. Any thoughts on that stuff? I dont think any of the 123 products are oil based. Am i wrong. I really want oil based for its better sprayability.[/QUOTE]

Say what? Forget the oil, both as primer and top coat, just forget it. You have been given all the information you need. Get to work.
Here is the primer and top coat
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Last edited by chrisn; 04-20-2013 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #18
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


One suggestion go to habitat or a yard sale and get something cheap to practice on I have a low end HVLP and believe me its different. Like for your topcoat you will have to thin a LOT. Then when you spray the hot air from the turbine has the effect of drying the paint too fast so you don't get an even gloss in places.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:56 PM   #19
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


Couple more clarifications now-

* Another excellent primer-choice would be STIX Primer, also from Insl-X. More expensive, but damn good stuff.
* Here's the product-info. on Stix:
http://www.insl-x.com/downloads/Insl...110%20Stix.pdf
* By saying..."a busy kitchen", we don't mean VISUALLY. Think..."frequently handled surfaces", such as door-edges, etc.
* PLEASE forget the "no-sand" stuff. It is NOT at all a preferred prep-method.....ESPECIALLY among those who truly know what works in the long-run.
* Don't use TSP. If it dries b4 rinsing, it's PITA to get off. Again, use POWDERED Dirtex, and lightly rinse b4 this dries.

The most important thing to SKIP...

>>> DO NOT put final Clears OF ANY KIND on after painting!!! I can't stress this enough!
* People who fall into this erroneous idea don't understand the issue this creates...
* You CANNOT trap a curing paint film under a clear final-finish!!! It can cause wrinkling of a paint-layer that's still trying to cure-out.
* Cure-out can take a MONTH.
* "Dry-to-the-touch" vs. "Fully-cured" are VEEEEEERRRRYY diff. things.
* You CAN do it.....IF.....you set up.....AGAIN....for spraying....a month later...
* If you truly want a stunning finish, check out FPE's stuff.

Faron
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:41 AM   #20
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


Quote:
Originally Posted by package81 View Post
Jsheridan and crisn... thx for the suggestions and the peace of mind that my plan is not totally absurd. I will look into the bulls eye 123. Question: did you just suggest the 123 because of its better bonding properties? Or do you think it will spray better/smoother? I think what im looking for here is the lowest viscosity oil based bonding primer possible. That seems like the properties that make for good sprayability. That is why i decided on the cover stain. Maybe that was wrong? Is 123 less viscous thatn cover stain?

I also looked into bulls eye oil based bonding primer. I dont think its a 123 product. Any thoughts on that stuff? I dont think any of the 123 products are oil based. Am i wrong. I really want oil based for its better sprayability.
scuff sand the cabinets, like JS said you don't need to hit every nook and cranny.Any oil based bonding primer will work but they dry fast too.I would go with the 1-2-3.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:54 AM   #21
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


If you absolutely don't want to sand, check out Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. You can paint over any finish with it as long as it's not super glossy. It's pricey though.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:17 AM   #22
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


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Originally Posted by ohallboyz View Post
If you absolutely don't want to sand, check out Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. You can paint over any finish with it as long as it's not super glossy. It's pricey though.
Oh please, oh please do not take us down that path.

You do know what chalk paint as being hyped right now is right? Not really paint at all. It is a thinned fast setting liquid plaster with, in the case of Annie Sloan's products, the crappiest of hobby store acrylics tossed in for color. You will be so sorry using that stuff at all and especially when it fails on a non prepped surface. In chunks. Just wait until you have to figure out how to strip it off!!!!

And a quart of Annie's proprietary, just for you, crap is outrageously expensive. If you must fall for this latest of gimmicks at least have the common sense to make your own plaster and cheap paint mix.

Annie Sloan, if she is real and not made up, should flog herself for suggesting and perpetuating the idea of no prep finishing just because it is what the consumer wants to hear. Get over it, you cannot finish non-prepped surfaces. You cannot paint over chalk and dirt and expect much to be proud of for long.

What is so darned frightening about de-greasing and "de-makeuping" a piece of women's vanity furniture if it is nice? Spend a day stripping it completely and refinishing it to look like a treasured piece of furniture? Or if you must compromise scruff it with a fine grit piece of sandpaper and take a couple rattle cans of real paint, not plaster to it? At least you can always strip it off if you realize you made a horrible mistake.

Last edited by user1007; 05-03-2013 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:34 AM   #23
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Please help me do a no-sand job on my cabinets


Are you guys sure that 123 is going to spray ok out of my low-end hvlp gun? Without thinning? Is 123 pretty thin?

So if i end up scuff sanding, do i still need to wash them with TSP? Or should i just wipe them off really well with a tack cloth?

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