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Old 06-23-2009, 11:50 PM   #16
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Plaster cracks


Great bj...thanks so much for the info. When I re-read Chris's info I realized it was referring to a type of product not a brand, and look at my logo, lol .

I did see Plaster of Paris dry mix at Lowes. Is it advisable to use this or should I check elsewhere for the durabond product? It's quite amazing all the different products out there......

Btw...when doing the corners >>> I got corner tape w/metal strips. I plan to apply mud then the corner tape; dry; mud again then sand. Anything I need to do differently?? Also, should I use the dry mix in the corners or the dap repairing plaster ready mix???

Again...thanks for all the input; it's much appreciated.


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Old 06-24-2009, 05:19 AM   #17
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I'd show you how beautiful WV is.

WV is only 5 minutes from me, so I know how beautiful it is and would actually live there if the wife did not have to drive so far for her job( the one who makes the $).We still plan to retire there, if that ever happens.Sounds like you have the skimming compound situation figured out.I am surprised that Blowes does not carry Dura Bond there, they do here.You would want to use the easy sand in the corners for sure.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:16 AM   #18
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I'd use the setting compound for the first two coats (applying the tape/bead and bed coat) then skim with ready mix. I'm not familiar with the Plaster of Paris mixes so I can't advise there. I'd call the HD and see if they carry the Easy Sand. If not, I guess give the Lowes product a try.....
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Old 06-24-2009, 02:57 PM   #19
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I totally agree with bjbatlanta, read this and you will too: http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solu...questions.html

Click on topics on left after reading the article. Be safe, G
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Old 06-24-2009, 04:42 PM   #20
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Well another day running supplies, lol. I found a 4lb box of Sheetrock Easy Sand 90. But now after reading some more info I'm left a little confused on how to do the corners....the hot mud or ready mix. I've read sites that recommend both on bare plaster, so just not sure. I don't want to have to re-do this later. COMMENTS, PLEASE.....and thanks so much for all the advice so far. I couldn't have gotten this far without all your help.
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:26 PM   #21
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Either or both will work.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:09 PM   #22
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Thanks again for the responses. I feel more comfortable using the ready mix in the corners before the tape as I've worked with it before. Then I'll use the hot mix on some of the bad cracks and where a couple of chunks came out. Do you see any problems with this??? Also is sanding the hot mix about the same as readymix or more difficult or what??

Another question....I have a couple of the chunks that came out...should I attempt to re-adhere this or just use all new material to fill the holes?? They are about the size of 2 quarters, lol.

Another question.....one post or site I was reading recommended to prime and seal prior to repairs. I have always done opposite, so which is the proper way???

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a perfectionist and want to do it right, lol .
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:34 PM   #23
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The EasySand is best for a first coat as it is a LOT less likely to crack, is hard as a rock and dries quick enough for you to do another coat in the same day. Use the ready mix for the final coat as it sands a lot easier.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:11 AM   #24
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Great Matthew, ty for the advice.
What is main difference in applying the easy sand vs. ready mix, is it the texture, consistency or what? When I worked on corners around the mantle in the DR, I used gloves and applied the ready mix with my fingers; worked great. There is only 1-1/4" between the wood and each corner (that was a real challenge when stripping the multi layers of paper/paint, lol) creating difficulty using tools. Fortunately those corners don't have to be completely redone, just the other three, lol.

Also, is it necessary to apply anything other than water to the plaster prior to starting repairs?? I've read several different ways so just not sure which step first...some say to wet w/water then repair. Another site said to prime & seal before starting repairs and another post on here talked about using elmers glue mixed w/water and apply that as a primer to the rough areas before starting repairs. So what's everyone's take on this...what's the best way to go. I'll be using the Guardz to prime per Chris' instruction; he has guided me very well getting these walls clean.

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Old 06-25-2009, 05:21 AM   #25
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Another question....I have a couple of the chunks that came out...should I attempt to re-adhere this or just use all new material to fill the holes

Use new

Also, is it necessary to apply anything other than water to the plaster prior to starting repairs??

No

What is main difference in applying the easy sand vs. ready mix, is it the texture, consistency or what

I rarely use anything but what comes out of the 5 gal bucket, but I don't think there is that much difference in application.

Another question.....one post or site I was reading recommended to prime and seal prior to repairs. I

You could and it sure would not hurt but I don't think it is necessary

Lots of questions!
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:46 AM   #26
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What Chrisn said. Make sure you get the 90 and not the 20 or 45. The 20 Will set up too quick. Mix it till it's like toothpaste and apply it exactly like the readymix stuff. The mixing attachment for a drill works wonders.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:40 AM   #27
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Great guys...thanks so much for the info. I will wet first and I'll attempt to use the es90 in the corners first...if too difficult I'll change to the readymix provided I can mix it okay as I don't have a drill mixer attachment. Then Guardz, then 2 coats of SW Superpaint. Sounds like a good plan to me . Will keep you guys posted on how the repairs go.
And yes I always have lots of questions...guess that's a trademark of a perfectionist, lol. Thanks again guys and have a great day.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:12 PM   #28
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Thanks for all the info....just finished 1/2 of the room with the EasySand90 and got a couple of corners redone. Product was good to work with...hope it sand well. I went ahead and used it for all blemishes, etc. Then I'll use the ready-mix for the rest of the coats. Will keep you all posted. Have a good night .
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:02 PM   #29
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Chris, I finally got the Gardz on yesterday (what a mess) and the first coat of SW Superpaint today. It looks GREAT!!!!! Guess I did well, as absolutely no repairs can be seen through the first coat of paint and the corners look good too. Amazing what one can do if you put your mind to it, lol. And the desired affect has been acheived....smooth, hard and slick walls. They're beautiful. Thanks again guys for all the help and especially you Chris as I probably would have given up long ago with the wallpaper if you hadn't convinced me it could be done. They say great minds work well together . Thanks again for all the help. After new doors, etc. I'll start the foyer, lol.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:09 PM   #30
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(Another site said to prime & seal before starting repairs and another post on here talked about using elmers glue mixed w/water and apply that as a primer to the rough areas before starting repairs. So what's everyone's take on this...what's the best way to go.. )

Sounds like you are doing well.

If the plaster is broken and you are trying to bond durabond (Easysand is the lightweight version of the same USG product) to it, you need to wet it with water or a water and glue solution. Either one will do, but if plaster base coat is exposed and is very crumbly I like to use the water and glue solution to help solidify the basecoat.

I would use Kilz alcohol base or similar product in a situation where there had been water damage, otherwise your durabond patch will pop off.

Another manufacturer of setting type patching compound is a company by the name of Gold Bond, and Lowes or HD will usually carry that if they don't have USG's durabond or durabond Easy Sand.

After restoring plaster for over 20 years, from the description of your room, I would have sealed everything with alcohol based Kilz for an excellent bond, then 'laid in' or glued on a fiberglass screen mesh over all the walls and ceilings. Assuming of course you have removed loose plaster and patched or anchored loose areas first, then leveling it up.

After the mesh is covering the whole room, you can use Joint compound (the premixed in 5 gal. used for drywall) to cover in successive thin coats, about 3, until most of mesh is covered.

Then rent a rotary sander (porter cable) with a vacuum attachement to sand it smooth ( using 120 sandpaper).

Prime with a PVA primer (very thin stuff) and 'point up'. Now you are ready to sand and spot prime the 'pointed up' areas and then you can paint.

The full screen mesh, with proper repair before, should be a more or less permanent solution, especially done by a professional who gets the loose stuff secured before the mesh goes on.

Just a bit more to think about for you....

Philip LaMachio
http://estateplaster.com
Greensboro, N.C.

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