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aumanpj 01-10-2010 06:16 PM

Pitted Ceiling Paint
 
I have been remodeling my bedroom and as part of this process I took down the existing popcorn ceiling and retaped/mudded joints. After getting everything smoot I made the horrible mistake of buying primer and ceiling paint at Walmart. The brand is color place. Well, it looked awful! My next step was to buy Behr Ceiling Paint at Home Depot. After a good coat of Behr I thought things looked a little streaky so I went back for another coat. Well, now I'm left with a pitted ceiling! Unless I look up close everything looks fine at night with lamps on; however, by 10:00 am the ceiling looks terrible. The pits catch the light in such a way that the ceiling looks very, very streaky.

My question for you: How do I fix this? Home Depot said that the pits were caused by my poor choice of roller cover. Um, hello... I used the roller cover recommended by your customer service! They are called Performance Select with 3/8 inch nap. Well, this time I was instructed to use Purdy White Dove roller covers - also with 3/8 inch nap.

I can definitely tell the difference using Purdy. The paint rolls much more smoothly. Not only that, I don't get any of the flakes in the surface of my paint. With that said though, it doesn't seem as if this is going to fix the pits. I'll know more tomorrow when I see this new paint application in daylight. I'm thinking I may have to remud the ceiling. Yuck!

Thoughts? I'd appreciate any input you can provide.

user1007 01-10-2010 06:31 PM

Let's see paint and primer from WalMart on sale for $7.99 gallon? Followed by total crap Behr which nobody should use to fix it for $10-12 on sale? And you really don't know what the problem is?

I would try a thick, 3/4" nap roller cover and a superbonding latex primer at this point. Then follow with a decent paint! Shop at a paint store.

There was nothing wrong with the tools you used. It was the paint!

Chazbe 01-10-2010 06:38 PM

I would recommend a Hi-Build primer down first. Roll it with a 3/4 nap to give a good coverage. Don't skimp. The Hi-Build will help fill any "pitts" but will not fill any large or deep scratches. When it is dry you have the option to give it a light sanding using a very fine paper or paint your topcoats. As already stated by others, go to a regular paint store to get your supplies.

aumanpj 01-10-2010 06:39 PM

We were at Sherwin Williams getting paint samples for the wall and I asked them about it and they weren't really sure. They tried to contact a manager of some sort but he wasn't picking up the phone. Is Sherwin Williams the kind of store where I would find the superbonding latex primer? I thought Behr was supposed to be a decent paint. Can you recommend something specific?

Would I use 3/4 nap for the ceiling paint too... or just the primer? Home Depot seemed pretty insistent that it be 3/8 inch.

user1007 01-10-2010 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aumanpj (Post 380387)
We were at Sherwin Williams getting paint samples for the wall and I asked them about it and they weren't really sure. They tried to contact a manager of some sort but he wasn't picking up the phone. Is Sherwin Williams the kind of store where I would find the superbonding latex primer? I thought Behr was supposed to be a decent paint. Can you recommend something specific?

Would I use 3/4 nap for the ceiling paint too... or just the primer? Home Depot seemed pretty insistent that it be 3/8 inch.

Sherwin Williams is an excellent brand an national paint store chain. Benjamin Moore is my fave brand though.

No, once you get your surface the way you want, you should use a shorter nap roller for two coats of paint. Nothing skimpier than 3/8 though.

We are recommending the 3/4 and a superbonding or build up primer to see if it will fill in the pits. You need something that will put a fair amount of the stuff on at this point. A thinner nap roller cover will not.

Chazbe 01-10-2010 06:53 PM

A long time ago Behr used to be a quality paint. It then was bought out and started to be sold in HD and it had to be made to a price point. Because of it something had to give and the quality ingredients was the loser.

As far as SW knowing what to use on your problem it depends on the store employee. I work for SW, been there for 2 years. All the employees know the products very well but using them in creative ways is a whole different story. I have many years in remodeling houses and this is where the difference lies. A "tricks of the trade" thing.

aumanpj 01-10-2010 07:00 PM

Is one of these hi-build or superbonding?

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_i...paint/primers/

What is the likelihood this will work? Should I be confident? I'm on a budget and would just assume mud the ceiling again - thinking dry wall mud is cheaper than primer.

Chazbe 01-10-2010 07:09 PM

On the Professional side of the site, Check here.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/...rior/index.jsp
Hi-Build is cheap, runs like $13-$16 per gallon.

If you want to get back into the drywall side again that would be fine. I would recommend a primer first just to make sure the compound sticks. Any paint store multipurpose latex would be fine for that.

aumanpj 01-10-2010 07:20 PM

That's cheap enough, but do you you think it's good enough to fill pits or am I just going to make these pits even bigger by applying this stuff?

user1007 01-10-2010 07:33 PM

I don't know but I am trying to suggest the easiest way out. You may end up having to skim coat everything but you need a primer on over the paint before you can do that anyhow.

aumanpj 01-10-2010 07:36 PM

I'd have to prime the ceiling before mudding it? I couldn't put mud on the paint?

user1007 01-10-2010 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aumanpj (Post 380453)
I'd have to prime the ceiling before mudding it? I couldn't put mud on the paint?

You don't want to try and put mud on paint. It could work but seldom does. And remember you have crappy paint up there held on by angel wings as it is.

aumanpj 01-10-2010 07:42 PM

So, I should prime this with the high build primer and look to see if the pits are filled in. If they are I should paint. If they are not I should mud. If I mud I should prime again and then paint.

Do I have that right?

chrisn 01-11-2010 04:37 AM

1 Attachment(s)
You got it. If you do as already suggested all your problems will be gone, high build prime,3/4 inch nap, paint from SW with a 1/2 inch nap done.


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