pillars are peeling
:(Help- my entrance foyer pillars are peeling after painting them with a Porter Paint product that was sold to me stating that you didn't need to prime on top of oil with this product- just sand a little- I have used a Duran Paints Product in the past and It worked great on other trim around our home- but ran out and purchased this thinking it would work the same.
This paint went on feeling very thick with a lot of drag and every little brush stroke showing- Used a foam roller, but even the foam left a pattern. Now as I remove the tape around the edges the paint is peeling off the pillars in large strips. What do I do now???? They look terrible !
GO BACK ON THE PAINT DEALER AND HAVE HIM PAY FOR THE REMOVER AND A NEW PAINT JOB!!!!
Just to get this out of the way:
Never put a "latex" (acrylic) paint over an oil w/o first using an "oil" (alkyd) primer, regardless of any manufacturer claims that it's not needed
And this one:
All rollers leave stipple, even foam ones
Back-brushing may leave some brush lines, but IMO those are more desirable than stipple on trim
And one more:
Tape is a tool to help keep splatter off of areas where it shouldn't be, it's not meant to be used to cut lines
As for your problem, the best fix is to scrape any loose coating off, and sand it smooth to accept a new coating
I'd suggest a different paint as the Porter doesn't seem to fit your style
Please don't go back to the dealer and "have him" do anything
Complaining is fine, but you really can't hold them accountable for your application issues and demand a "remover" and a "paint job"
If you do complain, remember you'll catch more flies with honey than with vinegar
I'd confirm the problem is due to poor adhesion. Us a razor to cut horizontal and vertical lines in your Porter paint to make a checkerboard pattern. Press 2 inch wide ordinary white/yellowish masking tape over your crosshatch pattern and press it down tightly. Now pull the tape off quickly. The more squares of Porter paint that come up with the tape rather than stay stuck to the column, the lower the adhesion of your Porter paint to whatever is under it.
What I'm describing is the standard way paint adhesion to a substrate is tested by paint companies. If most of the Porter paint came up with the masking tape, take that piece of tape down to wherever you bought the Porter paint from and show them the results of your adhesion test. They may give you a refund on the paint you bought.
If it wuz me, I would use a sharp paint scraper to scrape off your Porter latex paint. Or, I would use xylene to remove it from the oil based paint it's on. (use plenty of drop clothes because cleaning latex paint off of anything with xylene can be messy, and you'll drip latex paint all over the place) Then, roughen the oil based paint on your columns by cleaning them with a green 3M Scotchbrite scouring pad (sold in grocery stores for scouring pots) dipped into a strong solution of TSP. Then, rinse the TSP off with clean rinse water, and allow to dry. Now, repaint those columns with a good quality exterior alkyd (or "oil based") paint tinted to the colour of your preference.
Maybe see my response to "Ehoez" in the thread in this forum entitled
http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/subscribed.gif Anyone know any good Ext Paint Designs/Color Chocies (for ranch style homes)?
It may be worthwhile reading.
There are several paints that have a very high adhesion rate and will stick fine to oil with minimal prep work. I can attest to this since we sell one such paint to the local county school for the express purpose of going over old oil and epoxy coatings on the walls with the only prep being a wash down. We've never had any issues doing this and the paints is as tight as any oil would be going over the same surface. However, the biggest problem I've seen is that a lot of stores or rather their employees don't necessarily know the specifics of the products they are carrying. When I was first learning the paint end of my job I was under the mistaken impression that just because Mirrolac was an acrylic and it sticks fine to oil that all 100% acrylic paints should stick fine to oil. I learned different very quickly. Only certain resins have enough grab for that kind of job. Now if the paint says right on the can that it's good for the application you were using it for then I'd say the paint store owes you some paint as it obviously failed by it's own claims. If it's just the salesman that told you this then he may not know his product very well.
Personally, I applied SW Waterbourne ProClassic right on top of some oil-topcoated trim (before I knew better), and I have not had a single chip yet. I think there are some finishes that can hold, and some that can't.
Did you do any other prep besides the scuff-sanding? I ask, because certainly the surface must be clean of any funky residue before even a primer coat is going to stick properly.
Yeah, I'd try and get my money back from the Porter guy... fixing this is going to be a real pain, involving a lot of sanding, scraping, and chemicals?
As a side note, how old is the house? I ask, because if it is old enough for lead paint, you have a real problem on your hands. (You can't go willy-nilly sanding and scraping lead paint.)
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