peeling at edges
Last year I had plaster put up over new blue board and skim coating over several other areas, this is walls and ceiling areas... I left these areas "cure" for about 10 months :laughing:
When I was ready to paint, I wiped the areas down with plain water to remove any dust... then a few hours later I primed everything with SW multi-purpose latex primer. That was allowed to dry at least a day, then I went back and re-primed to cover missed areas. Because I was doing walls & ceilings, edging was no issue I was able to really get in there...
After a day or so of drying, I painted the ceiling (SW Brilliance). I touched that up about 12 hours later...
A day or two later I blue taped the ceiling and did the walls... the blue tape was up for about 24 hours as I did a first coat, then a second coat on the walls.
When I removed the tape I was surprised to see it took some ceiling paint with it, down to plaster...
I waited a day or two... blue tape on walls, touched up ceiling... removed tape only hours later... took some wall paint off...
I had the same problems in my bathroom, but in there the walls had been painted for a year+ when I finally go around to taping to touch up around the ceiling to deal with some overshoot of the wall paint---I found the blue tape pulled 70% of the wall paint off! This bathroom is actually quite dry, it has a window and a large Panasonic fan that is motion activated with a run time at least 15 mins beyond any showers being taken...
My "solution" was to use frog tape where absolutely necessary and no tape (with very careful brush work) in others.
Now to my actual question :thumbup:
I just skim coated the walls in my stairwell (used green top). I'm paranoid that I'll have major peeling if I don't deal with this correctly... was SW Multi-Purpose the wrong primer choice? I have a quart of Gardz left over from a wallpaper removal and I think that it probably will cover this small stairwall area (and I can always buy more)... Is Gardz a better choice that the SW Primer?
To me, anytime you are priming over joint compound, the best choice is DRYWALL PRIMER. SW makes a very good DP.
The commonality among all that explanation is, ready, TAPE. If you stop the tape, the problem will go away. I have a tutorial on my blog, link below, geared to cutting in without using tape. You can do it, especially with a few pointers. I have faith in you.
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