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Bob Guercio 05-08-2012 01:42 PM

Painting and Wallpaper Paste
 
Hi All,

I'm going to take down the wallpaper in my daughter's bathroom. I will be using the chemical recommended and after all the paste is off, I will wash the walls with fresh water.

Do the walls need any special type of treatment or can I simply use a latex primer followed by regular paint?

Thanks,
Bob

Brushjockey 05-08-2012 02:16 PM

It is really hard to get all the paste- use a rough scrubbie- that helps.
You need to prime with something that will seal that residue back and not reactivate it. There are two things that will do that- an oil prime ( like cover stain) or a clear sealer called Gardz. I prefer gardz- and use it after every strip.

user1007 05-08-2012 02:55 PM

Gardz for primer for sure.

You should plan on some sacrificial drop cloths for removing wallpaper. I have found old sheets to work alright. You will want some contractor bags handy.

But before you go get to chemically stripping? Chemical wallpaper removers are expensive and do not work well. The techniques when I have had to do it?

1. With a sharp flat drywall knife, see if you can get a corner and whether the stuff will just peel loose on its own. If a real paperhanger put it up it should come right down. Always peel sort of parallel to the wall to reduce tension. If you pull towards you, you could cause it to snap off.

2. Water softener and warm water (I honestly forget the proportions). I used to use a garden tank sprayer with a mix. Others prefer those little hand spritzer bottles but I refuse to get carpal tunnel using those things to wet wallpaper. Working in sections: Wet like a 4x4 foot square and let it sit for a minute. Now see if you can get under it and start peeling it away. Again, peel it parallel to the wall and not toward you. Keep repeating the process.

3. Sometimes you have to score the paper to get get moisture behind it and a razor knife or holder will accomplish this. I like those little wallpaper scorers but I can hear the screams of other posters already. Anyhow, whatever you use, just remember you are going to have to fill in and skim coat the cuts you make in the wall. Once the paper is scored, try step 2 again.

4. Steamers have been used for ages but can be risky on drywall surfaces in my opinion. Don't get a Wagner toy one. Rent one for a day. They are almost a necessity for layers of antique wallpapers.

5. There is a special situation. Wallpaper borders. Try steps 1-4 and maybe you will get lucky but the only thing I have found that works well is a jackhammer held over head. I understand they make them idiot proof to put up but the glue is like epoxy or something. I just really hate them and they look profoundly stupid in most cases anyhow. Whatever you use, plan on dinging up the wall surface where they are.

Brushjockey 05-08-2012 03:11 PM

The most overlooked ingredient to stripping is patience. I don't use softener, or diff, or anything but water. And more water. Keep it wet and figure out for how long before it gives up.
I have lots of little tricks- every paper is different, and so much depends on if it was primed right under the paper.

Bob Guercio 05-08-2012 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brushjockey (Post 917224)
clear sealer called Gardz. I prefer gardz- and use it after every strip.

Do I need to prime with a traditional primer before I paint or can I just use regular paint over Gardz?

Thanks again,
Bob

Brushjockey 05-08-2012 04:31 PM

Gardz is a great primer itself- but it is clear. It will not give you opacity- but is great to make an even surface for any coating .

chrisn 05-08-2012 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Guercio (Post 917285)
Do I need to prime with a traditional primer before I paint or can I just use regular paint over Gardz?

Thanks again,
Bob

Gardz is clear, so it sorta depends on the color you are painting, any deep base and or yellow, probably should have a tinted primer over the Gardz

chrisn 05-08-2012 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdsester (Post 917249)
Gardz for primer for sure.

You should plan on some sacrificial drop cloths for removing wallpaper. I have found old sheets to work alright. You will want some contractor bags handy.

But before you go get to chemically stripping? Chemical wallpaper removers are expensive and do not work well. The techniques when I have had to do it?

1. With a sharp flat drywall knife, see if you can get a corner and whether the stuff will just peel loose on its own. If a real paperhanger put it up it should come right down. Always peel sort of parallel to the wall to reduce tension. If you pull towards you, you could cause it to snap off.

2. Water softener and warm water (I honestly forget the proportions). I used to use a garden tank sprayer with a mix. Others prefer those little hand spritzer bottles but I refuse to get carpal tunnel using those things to wet wallpaper. Working in sections: Wet like a 4x4 foot square and let it sit for a minute. Now see if you can get under it and start peeling it away. Again, peel it parallel to the wall and not toward you. Keep repeating the process.

3. Sometimes you have to score the paper to get get moisture behind it and a razor knife or holder will accomplish this. I like those little wallpaper scorers but I can hear the screams of other posters already. Anyhow, whatever you use, just remember you are going to have to fill in and skim coat the cuts you make in the wall. Once the paper is scored, try step 2 again.

4. Steamers have been used for ages but can be risky on drywall surfaces in my opinion. Don't get a Wagner toy one. Rent one for a day. They are almost a necessity for layers of antique wallpapers.

5. There is a special situation. Wallpaper borders. Try steps 1-4 and maybe you will get lucky but the only thing I have found that works well is a jackhammer held over head. I understand they make them idiot proof to put up but the glue is like epoxy or something. I just really hate them and they look profoundly stupid in most cases anyhow. Whatever you use, plan on dinging up the wall surface where they are.


I just have to take exception to that statement. I have stripped miles of paper and use Safe and Simple wall paper solution. It is a little pricy to have gallons of it shipped to MD from California, but you only use 2 oz per gallon of water and a gallon of solution will often last me a year.

I will also take exception to the steamer. IMO they are never needed. Antique wall paper is the easiest to remove because it is almost always real paper and is on real plaster. This makes stripping as easy as it gets

As to the borders, I will agree They are stuck like that because 9 times out of 10 the home owner put it up and guess what? They skimmed the directions and saw" use VOV to apply" not reading that VOV is to be used ONLY when applying over vinyl paper. NO, they put the VOV adhesive on the already pre-pasted border:eek: and stick it on the wall and are so proud that it has stayed in place for 150 years! Idiots. THAT combination needs the jack hammer.

Ok, I am done now, my typing finger is worn out:laughing:

user1007 05-08-2012 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 917315)
I just have to take exception to that statement. I have stripped miles of paper and use Safe and Simple wall paper solution. It is a little pricy to have gallons of it shipped to MD from California, but you only use 2 oz per gallon of water and a gallon of solution will often last me a year.

I will also take exception to the steamer. IMO they are never needed. Antique wall paper is the easiest to remove because it is almost always real paper and is on real plaster. This makes stripping as easy as it gets

Safe and Simple is decent but I have not seen it in awhile.

I agree on the antique paper too. If I found a layer on plaster it was really easy. I just never found it that often. Too often there are layers of paper on antique homes. As they fell out of fashion to own in the flee to suburbia, people, as you know, just put paint or paper over paint or paper over and over again. Same people painted all the oak and other hardwood trim white because real estate agents told them a house with dark wood would never sell. It took a lot for me to work a steamer but sometimes I did.

Chris, hope your finger gets better.

chrisn 05-09-2012 04:06 AM

Finger is no rested,thanks. Most real estate people should not try and be decorators, they just don't have a clue. I guess I am lucky, most of the older homes I work in only have one layer of real paper over real plaster, couldn't be easier to remove. Except when they use super glue for split seams:eek::censored::censored::censored:

and those freekin jobs with vov'd border on un primed drywall


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