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Old 02-10-2009, 11:05 AM   #1
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Painting trim and cabinets white

I am going to be painting my kitchen cabinets and trim white. Right now they are a darker stain. I assume I will need to sand them and then use some kind of primer. Any tips or recommendations on which primer to use for this. Anything else I am missing? Thanks.


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Old 02-10-2009, 12:37 PM   #2
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i know what primer NOT to use! kilz2... but in a kitchen, you might consider using an oil-based paint for cleanability.



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Old 02-12-2009, 05:48 PM   #3
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Hmmm...I really should make this a "sticky"

Originally Posted by slickshift
The Ideal Cabinet Repaint:

Clean with ammonia/water solution
Let dry

Sand with 180
This is to "rough up" the surface, not sand it off
Wipe with Tack Cloth

Prime with a white-pigmented shellac based primer*
(Use a disposable brush and take precautions
Plenty of fresh air and a respirator are good ideas when working with shellac)
Let dry

Sand with 180
This is a light sanding to smooth out the shellac a bit
Wipe with tack cloth

Paint first coat, using a good quality oil-based enamel, or a quality waterborne enamel, using the a good quality proper type brush (oil/water-based prefer different kinds of brushes)
Let dry over night

Lightly sand with 220
Wipe with tack cloth

Second coat quality oil based enamel, or a quality waterborne enamel, also with a proper brush

Enjoy beautiful cabinets
…and the long-lasting durable finish you applied yourself

*If the cabinets are in good shape, and not too dark, a quality oil-based (alkyd) primer may be used for priming (and TSP for cleaning)
I suggest a shellac because it works on just about any surface, dark, light, wood, laminate, bare wood, stained wood, polyurethane-ed wood, pickled wood, previously oil-based or latex painted wood, and even the questionable surfaces like inexpensive “paper” laminates if the surface is prepped and the shellac applied carefully
It’s also your best bet for plastic or melamine type surfaces

If the cabinets are known to have a quality, properly adhering, latex or waterborne finish in good shape, the primer step could be skipped if the surface was scuff sanded well-but it would still be better to do the step and use a quality water based enamel undercoating as a primer.
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:12 PM   #4
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Just be careful with the shellac as it tends to dry very quickly and can leave a lot of lap marks as you come back around to a previously painted spot going around a cabinet door.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:57 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by slickshift View Post
Hmmm...I really should make this a "sticky"
Definitely should be a sticky or in the "How To Guides" Section.

Great info.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:45 PM   #6
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Slickshift, great info, thanks.

Would you also use that procedure for wood furniture you want to paint?

I have an armoire and nightstands that I would like to paint.
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:21 PM   #7
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My usual advice to clients: just don't. Too much headache, and a kitchen leaves LOADS of opportunity for peeling (which is why slickshift wants you to wash the workspace about 100 times.) If you must, I agree with most of what slickshift said, though like Matthew noted, "shellac" primer (namely, Zinsser's "BIN," for the rest of us,) is difficult to work with. Also note that BIN is FAR from a clean white-- it ages faster than an alkyd, and you'll see orange/brown through your topcoat instead of simple, subtler oil-yellow. I recommend Zinsser's "Cover Stain," instead. No, it doesn't quite have the adhesion as BIN, but it's thicker like paint, and it's a truer alkyd, which makes it a little easier to work with. Follow remaining details as Slickshift mentioned. For your topcoat, an ENAMEL is key-- it's a harder shell than simple paint, and I agree: as long as you're using the quality stuff, it doesn't really matter whether you pick an oil or a Waterborne. Waterborne will stay whiter longer; oil's tougher.


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