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Old 08-10-2011, 09:22 AM   #16
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Painting stained trim and doors


To be on the safe side, I think it is best for me to use the BIN.

Should I use my Purdy brushes with BIN?

I am worried about cleanup.

Do I have to go by Wal-Mart and buy ammonia to clean my brushes or is there some kind of household cleaning item (maybe some mop and glo or some other type of floor cleaner) that I can use?

I have isobopryl alcohol and mineral spirits at the house, if that helps, but no pure ammonium.


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Old 08-10-2011, 11:27 AM   #17
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This is how I clean brushes with BIN:
Get a quart of denatured alcohol.
Pour some in an old cup and soak your brushes in it while you're cleaning up the workspace.
Agitate most of the paint out and then rub some dish soap into the bristles.
Rinse in warm water, squeezing paint out with fingers.
Pour a little clean denatured alcohol onto bristles and rub in some more dish soap.
Rinse again in warm water until clear.

If your project has taken a while and the BIN has dried into the brush, you can give it a longer soaking in alcohol. I've used Iso Alc to do quick cleanups and it works, but generally use denatured alcohol from the paint or big box store.
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:15 PM   #18
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What about just getting some inexpensive paint brushes from Wal-Mart and then put the brush in a plastic zip-lock when done for next use?
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:21 PM   #19
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Bin will leave some brush strokes from a cheap brush. It may be ok if you're rolling the flats.
They don't hold for very long in a bag. The BIN dries up fairly quickly even in a bag. I think I used a brush after about 2 weeks, but it was already getting pretty stiff.
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Old 08-10-2011, 04:50 PM   #20
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One thing I did not see mentioned about the application of Bin (or other fast setting coatings), if you see a spot that you missed, do not go back and try to touch it up. Wait for it to DRY and then apply more where needed. Once you have coated an area keep going, let it dry and then later touch those spots and feather out.
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Old 08-10-2011, 05:36 PM   #21
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Why use Bin?

Scruff sand it , clean, a coat of Fresh Start, paint.

I see no need for Bin in this application at all.
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:51 PM   #22
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No need for bin. I would scuff sand, clean and apply Sherwin Williams adhesion primer and 2 coats of Sherwin Williams ProClassic.
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:14 PM   #23
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Just got finished with using BIN. Used probably less than 1 quart so far on the crown, base molding, window ledges and door trim. I still need to prime the door slabs and the french door, which I am personally dreading having to tediously tape. I am guessing that I will easily have over a 1/2 gallon of BIN left when I am finished with this room.

The BIN was very strange to work with. It is indeed very milky and I was splashing it every where when I first started using it, but then got used to it. Luckily, the carpet is going to the dumpster so I just splattered on it at will. In fact, my first pour out of the can I spilled a great deal of it on the carpet.... You can still see the wood underneath my BIN job, but I'm hoping it's enough primer anyways, at least I think it is. Man, does that stuff stink. I used a box fan, and ran the AC blower fan non-stop and it still smelled incredibly strong, like Everclear x 100! I can still taste the fumes in my mouth and nose.

It dries smooth and seems to be fairly forgiving, as in you can pretty much slop it on and it still feels smooth to the touch although it certainly doesn't look like it. As long as the latex paint takes to it, I will be a happy camper.

Cleanup was not bad at all. Used a 50/50 mix of ammonia (2 bucks at Wal-mart for a 1/2 gallon) and water and it cleaned my wide Purdy brush in no time. I just swished it in the solution, and rinsed and repeated a few times, no problem.
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by housepaintingny View Post
No need for bin. I would scuff sand, clean and apply Sherwin Williams adhesion primer and 2 coats of Sherwin Williams ProClassic.

Well, thanks, I thought I was all alone out here.
Bin is great for some things but as the OP found out, the smell will kill you, really.
I still feel it is over kill for this job, if it was sanded, any good primer would have worked.
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Old 08-11-2011, 06:35 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Well, thanks, I thought I was all alone out here.
Bin is great for some things but as the OP found out, the smell will kill you, really.
I still feel it is over kill for this job, if it was sanded, any good primer would have worked.
I will add that it was nice to **not** have to sand anything.
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:01 PM   #26
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I will add that it was nice to **not** have to sand anything.

Yea, well hopefully that decision will not come back to bite you in the a** down the road.
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I will add that it was nice to **not** have to sand anything.
I don't know why you would not at the very least scuff sand the surface first. A light sanding will give the primer something to bite to. It is painting industry standard to at least lightly sand first, especially over a glossy, slick, stained, or varnished surface no matter what primer you use.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:50 AM   #28
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Looks good noone. From the lap pattern on the crown I can see you have a bit of understanding doing brushwork. Now we have to work on increasing your coverage. Not sure what stage your at on the job, give an update. Don't get too far away from the sandpaper. You said you weren't opposed to doing what it took to get a good job, well, we're telling you. Take care.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:07 AM   #29
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Looks good noone. From the lap pattern on the crown I can see you have a bit of understanding doing brushwork. Now we have to work on increasing your coverage. Not sure what stage your at on the job, give an update. Don't get too far away from the sandpaper. You said you weren't opposed to doing what it took to get a good job, well, we're telling you. Take care.
I'm on the caulking stage. I'm only been able to work a few hours a night thus far. Still have to BIN the doors, which I am not looking forward to. Especially that extremely HEAVY french door with glass. That door took some effort to move around by myself and I weigh about 170.

While caulking, I have noticed that the bin is flaking off where it dripped heavily on the tops of the base molding in the area where I first started. I don't think I had wiped the dust off of that part of the base molding so I think that is the issue. I will sand that small area down to get it smooth.

That picture is of the section where I first started using BIN. When I started it, it was messy and I dripped it everywhere. The coverage and technique improved drastically as I progressed through the job.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:15 AM   #30
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Painting stained trim and doors


Nice work. Coverage with BIN is definitely a bit of a challenge. Still all in all, I'm quite sure that sanding all of that molding would have been a nightmare and both the expense of material and time would have offset the savings on a cheaper primer.
Of course, it doesn't matter what you use, the surface still needs to be clean before coating I've had drips of BIN before. It never affected adhesion.

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