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Old 09-23-2007, 01:35 PM   #1
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Painting process


Hello, I've been reading here for awhile trying to get tips for painting/repairs/remodels and such...much enjoyed!

We close on a house in a little less than a week and I've been given the job of painting. No big deal, right? Right...I've never painted anything. I've read here alot, but can't wrap my mind around a definate process and list of needed materials.

Does Kilz work in every room for the primer? Or do I need to use the Bulls Eye 1-2-3 for the bathrooms? Both in the bathrooms?? One bathroom is being remodeled and hubby is gonna put in that concrete sheetrock stuff...need to be sealed?

Does the Kilz and Bulls Eye have to be bought at say, Home Depot, or can I buy the same quality at Wal-Mart? (I work there and get a discount)

Before I get yelled at, we are going with Sherwin Williams paints, rollers and brushes. I'm only cutting corners on things that don't really matter like trays, roller handles, tapes, drop cloths....

Would I be better off using the ProBlock Primer from SW? The girl I spoke with said that Kilz would work as well.

We're doing Super-Paint for most of the rooms...is Duration ok for the bathrooms? Orrrr.......

I'm sorry for all these questions, and I apologize in advance for any I may come up with in the next week or so. I'm sure this has all been asked before, but I really can't sort it all out in my mind.

Thank you in advance!



ETA: I knew I'd come up with something else, but didn't realize it would be this fast!!! The den has white beadboard stuff on 3 of the walls. It's slick and shiny....can I primer over that and then paint, or do we have to tear it out and sheetrock the walls? I'm trying to cut any extras out of the reno's right now, but I'm not sure if that's one we CAN cut out????






Last edited by kimct77; 09-23-2007 at 01:40 PM. Reason: another q....
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:14 PM   #2
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Painting process


Quote:
Originally Posted by kimct77 View Post
Does Kilz work in every room for the primer?
Or do I need to use the Bulls Eye 1-2-3 for the bathrooms? Both in the bathrooms?? One bathroom is being remodeled and hubby is gonna put in that concrete sheetrock stuff...need to be sealed?
Would I be better off using the ProBlock Primer from SW? The girl I spoke with said that Kilz would work as well.
There will be very little need for primer for most repaints
New drywall, or repaired areas, that's about it...maybe drastic color changes or problem areas...those may have special needs
It may be a good idea in the bathroom, depending on what's on there now, and it's condition

Any of the Kilz products other than Original Kilz (oil/alkyd-based) stink on ice
They have a high failure rate
I'm sure if you look through the forums you'll find a few failures of the latex Kilz products
The Original Kilz is the only one that doesn't stink, and that's mostly used for stain blocking

For new drywall, repairs, or any spot priming 1-2-3 is fine
And it's great for the bathroom if it's needed
If you are covering over a real dark color with a lighter one, I'd suggest the Pro-Block
But as I mentioned, for repaints there's usually no reason to prime

Quote:
Originally Posted by kimct77 View Post
Does the Kilz and Bulls Eye have to be bought at say, Home Depot, or can I buy the same quality at Wal-Mart? (I work there and get a discount)
As far as I know, it's the same mix wherever you purchase them
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimct77 View Post
Before I get yelled at...
I'm only cutting corners on things that don't really matter like trays, roller handles, tapes, drop cloths....
Not yelling, but I would be remiss not to mention this as you seem to be painting an entire house
Get A Good Roller....Trust Me
I'd suggest the Wooster Sherlock

It will make your project go smoother, faster, and with less fatigue
Honestly, cheap tapes and drops will can you distress also (but not until you lift them up...you won't know until then)
But you don't want to rely on tape and drops anyway
You should only be using tape for heater vents and trim overage and such, and you won't be dripping any paint right? ()
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimct77 View Post
The den has white beadboard stuff on 3 of the walls. It's slick and shiny....can I primer over that and then paint, or do we have to tear it out and sheetrock the walls? I'm trying to cut any extras out of the reno's right now, but I'm not sure if that's one we CAN cut out????
You can scuff sand (light sand) and paint right over it (no primer...unless it's oil paint or something weird...or a drastic color change)

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Old 09-23-2007, 04:40 PM   #3
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You rock! Gotcha...going for the Wooster.

Thank you so much for answering those questions! I'm pretty sure you've saved us a good bit of money on primer and stuff.

I hope to not drip paint...hehe...but knowing me....like I know me......


Thanks again! I've bookmarked this page and will be referring back often as I make my materials list. Ugh...I can't believe the old man gave me this project, knowing how accident prone/forgetful I am!
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:53 PM   #4
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Painting process


Hmmm... now might be a good time to go over a few things that will help tremendously

You've got a decent sized project, well worth it to get a nice roller
I'd also suggest a pole to ease the strain of the high parts and low parts (I never roll w/o a pole)
Get a pole that fits into the Sherlock, and then get a screen-type drywall sander that will also fit on the pole

This will help tremendously in the "prep"
It uses special 'screen' type 'sandpaper' that lats a long time, and can be reversed and still used
You might want a few of each, med and fine, to figure out what works best for your walls
But usually either will be OK
Your not sanding the paint off, just scuffing it up



A quick scuff sanding of the walls to be painted

And this contraption makes it very, very, quick

Then a proper dusting
I carry dry-type swiffers on a stick
One of these

But with the fold able extension handle

(boy that things big...I don't think mine are the XXL...lol)

Only a few minutes per room (rather than over an hour) and you're ready to paint walls

The Magic Eraser is excellent for trim
It cleans and de-glosses (as usually the trim is shinier and a little de-glossing helps)
Sometimes it doesn't de-gloss enough so a few sanding sponges make quick work of sanding trim if need be

At the minimum, get the Purdy White Dove roller sleeves
Some 50/50 Wool/Poly would be a little better
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:51 AM   #5
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Painting process


Great! Added that stuff to my list. Thank you so much for taking the time to spell it all out for me, I need that.

Does the 1 2 3 stuff soak up smells? The lady we're buying the house from was apparently extremely busy and wasn't the best housekeeper with 2 kids, a dog and a cat in the house and the house has a definite odor to it and hubby keeps saying it's on the walls. In fact we're ripping ALL of the carpet out just because of that. I was thinking Kilz because of what I've heard of it doing something about odor...unless I understood that wrong?

Yes, I have alot to paint...I'm dreading it...lol. Thanks again!!!! You've really been alot of help and I'm sure you've answered the same questions over and over again.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:15 PM   #6
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Painting process


Pet smells? Ouch. Yes, in this case, oil-base primer may help with that; I wouldn't waste time with Latex of any sort. The nuclear weapon of odor-blocking primer is Shellac-based, but it is respirator-required nasty stuff.

The more experienced folks here can tell you what would block pet odor. If oil-base Kilz works, great...

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Old 09-24-2007, 02:28 PM   #7
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Painting process


Original Kilz (oil/alkyd-based) is somewhat effective in dealing in odors
I generally don't mess with it and go straight for the WMD (Weapons of Mass Deodorification) and seal it in with a white pigmented shellac-based sealer

If that doesn't seal it, nothing short of removal will help

It is nasty though...fresh air and a respirator are recommended
I'd want to be sure of where the odor is before slathering it over any/all floors, walls, etc...it's a bit whiffy and you can get a bit dizzy

As for pet odors, it's hard to say from here as to whether or not it's bad, really bad, try and seal or floor removal time (I suspect it's more in the floor)
Cat urine is probably the worst
But the shellac will work for floors and framing also
At least till the point that removal is needed
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:02 PM   #8
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Ugh...I think I may try the Original Kilz before I try anything seemingly toxic...lol. I have a touch of asthma, along with 3 kids, so I don't want to do anything that's gonna knock them outta being out of the house while we're doing this. I mean, they're not gonna be sniffing paint fumes with me, but I'm sure they'll be in and out.

We're almost positive a good bit of the smell is coming from the carpet. You can see stains here and there. It's not ONLY pet smells, it's an overall unclean, stuffy smell. As soon as we close and get the keys we're headed over there to open all windows and place fans in most of the windows....probably light a few candles, offer up a few virgins...ya know, anything to get that smell out!

The basement was apparently where the cat lived, I'm hoping a good, thorough pressure washing will take care of THAT odor. Litterbox...ewwwww.

Long story short, thank you guys alot! I'm willing to try anything, and you guys have great advice!

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