Painting a porch floor......already painted

organick

I am painting the exterior of the house and need to do porch floor. Its already painted and from 32 so i am sure there is lead under it somewhere. Its in good shape not peeling etc. Think its got some porch paint on it now with a little gloss to it......Whats my best bet? light(very) sanding prime and porch paint or prime and acrylic solid porch stain? any ideas?

BraniksPainting

It's difficult to tell what the surface really looks like but If it's not peeling anywhere there is really no need to sand it and disturb it. I would clean it first and make certain there is no grease or dirt on it, hose it off then either let it air dry or wipe it with some towels. Prime & then apply Sherwin Williams Floor & Porch Enamel. It is a waterborne formula so it's soap and water clean-up for your brushes and such.

Mr. Paint

Check the label before you prime. Most primers are not meant to be walked on, therefore most porch and floor paints in the industry are sold as self-priming. In California, oil-base porch paints are outlawed, so you have to use a good quality, 100% acrylic. In changing systems a little scuff-sanding and wipe-down with a damp towel would be advised.

chrisn

yes

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housepaintingny

I would wash the surface, removing any mildew, mold, grease and other contaminants. Scrape any areas that have loose paint, hit the whole surface with an orbit sander with 80 grit and then I like applying Sherwin Williams Armorseal Tread Plex. Tread Plex is a little better than there Porch and Floor enamel. If you wanted to get extreme Armorseal also has one and two part epoxys.

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organick

Thats where I questioned it too. But For example SW sells porch and floor but says to use all surface primer first. SO it seems like just needs to be thr right primer?? Anyone prefer the solid acrylic solid stains?

Any product rec? I tend to default to SW when in question

ric knows paint

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think SW even makes an alkyd (oil based) floor enamel any more...and the only time they (SW) recommends that a primer be used is when it's to be applied to a bare metal surface (then use the All Surface Primer) - but for painted floors, or bare concrete or wood, use as it's own primer, which is kinda consistent with what many other manufacturers recommend.

In regards to Solid Acrylic Stain vs. Acrylic Floor Enamel - Don't consider it. The only place the stain would have an "advantage" is if the floor to be coated is an exterior deck...and then it's only an advantage 'cause neither is gonna hold up very well, for very long, and the stain would be easier to recoat.

Finally, and I know it's tempting, but shy away from epoxies for a porch floor. Epoxies work great on concrete floors...and could work great on wood floors in the right environment, but the downsides are too many to consider this as an option. Expense, difficulties in re-coating, limited expansion and contraction capabilities...not to mention the aesthetic issues of chalking and fading. Your floor enamel will work fine in this application. Surface prep is key, make certain it's clean, wouldn't hurt to scuff-sand a little - follow package directions and you'll be fine. Good luck.

sdsester

As goes California so goes the nation. I can still get oil based products here but not for long anymore. And the paint store water based porch and floor paints are also urethane reinforced so hold up well. They are usually applied without a primer.

Stick to the factory colors (and there is a complete chart but not so extensive as a color fan) if you can. I think Benjamin Moore makes floor paint tint bases but you have to have them special ordered. I have always found something that works from the factory mixed colors though. Tinting the super thick stuff just seems like it would end up streaky since you can only shake or stir the pigments in on your own so much. The factory has huge machines for such things.

MAB had a wonderful acrylic solid stain product they said would work on decks and porches. I don't know what happened to it when SW took them over. I don't know of any other stain manufacturer that has recommended or suggested its solid stains a good choice for horizontal surfaces to be walked on. Personally, I would never use any solid stain for a porch, floor or deck. Seems to me, by nature of the stain qualities, you would find yourself "touching up" constantly even if it worked to a point?

Porch and floor paint is sticky stuff but I guess I would scruff up the surface underneath a bit, just out of habit and perhaps for no printed label reason, to give a little more surface for the new coat to adhere.

Be warned. One of the drawbacks to porch and floor paint is it tends to be rather high gloss to the point with a layer of dew, mist, light rain or thin ice on, especially a new surface, you are talking potential ice rink! You should think about mixing in something for traction or buying some pads for stairs and the path to the door, etc. A friend has super slick stairs and porch when even damp to the point I cling to the rail with both hands and proceed like a rock climber!

They make some really nice looking rubber step pad cut outs in Victorian grill patterns that look great as entry enhancements to old homes. They must have patterns for more modern homes too? You could always design your own and have a laser cutting service make them. Not expensive.

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organick

Yeah the SW stuff is water based.....They also sell that trad plex(I think) which I believe is a marina product? The porch and floor label says to use all surface primer but wondering if thats just for raw application.. The porch is covered so gets very little wetness except from walking and its not even used by the people living here.. Thanks for the input.

housepaintingny

Tread Plex is for wood and concrete floors. It is 100% acrylic water bourne and a step above the SW Porch and Floor enamel.
SW Porch and Floor does not get a primer, you apply 2 coats to wood and concrete. If you where applying it to a steel substrate then you would first apply the all surface primer.
Like Sdster said it will get a little slippery, so its a good idea to add a grit, such as Shark Grit form SW which you would mix in your final coat. The grit is clear and not noticeable.

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jsheridan

When you say "not noticeable", you can't tell that any additive has been added? It doesn't give a slight texture appearance?

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housepaintingny

You don't want to over apply it. You do want to mix it well in your final coat of paint before applying it. Shark Grit is clear and fine. You can walk bear foot on it and rarely feel it. To answer your question you will not have a texture appearance when applied properly. I usually use it on painted stairs, porches and any exterior masonry surfaces that will be walked on.

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Matthewt1970

I would recommend this with some sand grit for traction like Shark Grit. We did some over the summer in a Veterinary Hospital wash room. We used the SW 2 part water based and damn that stuff sticks like nothing else. We mixed 3 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket and after it dried you couldn’t chisel it out of the bucket if you tried. Stink wasn’t even a factor as I thought it smelled like laundry detergent. The stuff has a short pot life so once you mix it you have to apply it within 8 hrs.

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housepaintingny

SW does make some great 2 part water base epoxy. Like you said, a lot of them have a short pot life. Pro industrial 2 part from SW has a 4 hour pot life and needs to sweat for 30mins prior to use after mixing part a and b. I've used Shark Grit for years on walking surface where there is potential for slipping. Good stuff.

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sdsester

Not sure about epoxy on an exterior wood deck type surface. It essentially seals in one side of timber that will swell and contract with humidity if nothing else. Seems a nightmare to get off since the epoxy will not. Definitely make sure the epoxy product has lots of UV protection or it will discolor and fissure on you.

I could see it on a solid surface. Used to use it all the time on boat decks and so forth.

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