Originally Posted by beanie34
I've cleaned my porch with my pressure washer and all loose paint is up and the porch has dried for 5 days. All porch paints I've used in the past have been slippery when the weather is damp. What do I use for a non-slick finish?
I saw a program tonight (Holmes on Homes on DIY) where they painted a wood walkway to the lake with something that had a nonslip finish. It was rolled on. What is it and do you have to sand all paint off prior to using it? Thanks, Jean
The problems with adding sand, marble, glass or any other of the multitude of available aggregates to a paint film, to provide "skid/slip resistance", are many...Due to the texture of an aggregated surface, these finishes tend to pick up and hold dirt and they can be difficult to clean. Because of the composition of modern paints, their really isn't enough resin in a packaged product to incorporate, and thoroughly bind, the addition of a dry aggregate without affecting the resin's ability to provide long-lasting adhesion and protection to a surface.
Broadcasting the aggregate over a freshly painted surface can also provide a degree
of slip resistance, but since it won't be an integral part of the coating, broadcast aggregates often times simply wear off with traffic - BUT - unfortunately, not before doing a fair amount of damage to the cured finish product (this is also true with those aggregates mixed into a coating, but don't wear off as quickly).
There are a few advantages to the "anti-skid" coatings already packaged by the manufacturer - at least those coatings are made up of a more proper balance of resin to dry components (pigment + aggregate) - Plus, often times the aggregates used by manufacturers may not be as
abrasive as sand, or glass, thereby not doing as much
damage to cured product as the ones described earlier.
Unfortunately, damage will occur to the cure film regardless of the method used (stir-in, broadcast or factory supplied)...and it makes sense. Very few conventional, single component resins can withstand, over time, the effect of a 200# man, walking across a painted surface, pivoting against a sharp, hard, multi-dimensional aggregate without abrading the film. Matter-o-fact, very few multiple component resins would withstand such abuse (moisture cure urethanes & 100% solids epoxy may be the exceptions - but neither are considered "conventional" - and neither should be used on exterior wood surfaces - and neither should be put into the hands of a novice painter or homeowner for application).
Now, after painting that doom-n-gloom scenario of no possible hope, there are alternatives. You might consider painting your floor (I'd recommend an acrylic system - strictly following manufacturer's application instructions), and instead of using an aggregate, place no-skid adhesive strips in those high traffic areas (steps and pathway to entrance door)...You can find these strips at marinas and some hardware stores - sometimes even paint stores - and I've even seen 'em come in a limited amount of colors (instead of just black). They will provide the necessary traction to minimize risk of slipping on a wet surface (they are, after all, designed for boat floors) - plus, when the aggregate wears off, the strips can be pulled off and replaced relatively easy. Your paint film will last far longer than one with aggregate added, and it'll be a whole lot easier to keep clean.
Good luck - let us know what you decide.