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-   -   Painting over Textured walls (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/painting-over-textured-walls-40054/)

la15ota 03-10-2009 06:50 PM

Painting over Textured walls
 
I have a standard orange peel textured walls, out in California, lots of crevices. With builders crappy chalky paint.

I'd like to properly re-paint the room for my son's big boy room, I plan on using the BM - Natura paint (no VOC).

1. Should I prime it?
2. Recommendations on the right nap height for rollers
3. Types of brushes
4. General painting techniques for rolling and cutting in

All tips, suggestions and support are welcomed.

Dana11 03-11-2009 07:01 AM

Getting the texture off:

If it's the texture that is the problem, stop sanding and spread a coat or two of mud on as was suggested. Do it in two layers if the texture is really rough and try to get it on as smooth as possible so you won't spend a great deal of effort trying to get it flat.

Choosing Roller

1- Choose a handle made of steel and equipped with a plastic grip that is threaded to accommodate an extension pole.

2 - Be sure the cage allows for easy roller cover replacement.

3- Check to be sure roller cover will stay in place on the cage and will not slide off.


4- If you'll be using oil-based paint, choose a roller cover made from natural fibers, such as sheepskin, lamb's wool, or mohair. You can also use a synthetic-fiber roller cover.


5- If you'll be using water-based (latex) paint, use a cover made of synthetic fibers.


6- Choose a roller cover with dense fibers. For fiber length, the rule to remember is the smoother the surface, the shorter the fiber length should be.

Brushing or cutting in tips


Beginning a wall painting project always starts with some brushing. Using a 3-inch brush apply the paint to the corners, walls to the ceiling and the walls to the trim, leaving a 3-4 inch band of paint. Now is the best time to cut-in around any obstructions such as electrical switches, outlets and permanently attached fixtures. Be careful brushing around the outlets, no need for excessive paint and possible drips from these areas.


Using a brush requires practice and patience. Use light pressure and a pulling motion to find the leading tip of the brush. Too much pressure will cause the brush to fan out. With practice this will become easier.


Dana
http://www.ninaathome.com/

slickshift 03-11-2009 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by la15ota
...standard orange peel textured walls, lots of crevices.
With builders crappy chalky paint.

I'd like to properly re-paint the room for my son's big boy room, I plan on using the BM - Natura paint (no VOC).

1. Should I prime it?
2. Recommendations on the right nap height for rollers
3. Types of brushes
4. General painting techniques for rolling and cutting in

1) Yes
Normally for a standard re-paint, no
But the chalky builder's paint will suck that first coat up like nobody's business
Fortunately, there is a Natura no-VOC primer I'd highly recommend
And if it's a deep color over a light one, it would be a good idea to tint a primer and prime anyway (for color change reasons)
Fortunately, there is a deep base Natura primer that can be tinted to gray or your color preference....while still remaining no-VOC

2) Not seeing your specific project, I'd expect to, and show up with, and probably use regardless, a 1/2 inch nap roller sleeve
3/4 is usually too big for orange peal or knock-down, and 3/8 is pretty small except for real smooth surfaces
Truthfully, I prefer the 1/2 even on smooth walls (for production reasons-holds more paint), but in this case, I can't see either a 3/8 or a 3/4 being worth it under any circumstances

Although many diyers see this tool as disposable (and it is), and tend to cheap out on it, it's one of the most important tools to make your project go smoothly, quickly, and look great
A better quality roller sleeve will hold and release more paint, and apply it smoother
(and w/o "fuzzies"...hey who wants to save $1.00 and then spend 2 hours sanding and painting the wall again...or picking out the lint while painting)

As you are using Natura, I'd recommend (at least) the Aura or BM Shed-Resistant covers available at the same retailer
As always, you will never go wrong with the Purdy White Dove, available anywhere and an excellent choice regardless of the product you are using

3) Basically, any quality brush that suits your needs (product, style, and project) will work fine
As I'm assuming you haven't developed a personal style or preference (or you would have said "I'd like the firmest brush possible that will still work with Natura" or something like that), I can say that any premium brush from Purdy, Wooster, or Corona, will probably be just fine
Hold them in your hand and pretend you are painting for figure size, shape, and handle style (it's OK to look a little goofy in the store...if if it's good store, they'll recommend that you do that)
Your specific project and comfort level will also help determine the size and type (angle/flat)

Your Natura dealer should have a line of Ben Moore labeled brushes
The Poly/Nylon ones (not the cheapos that look OK), are made by Wooster and are not too firm, not too soft, and are a good choice

I've personally found the Chinex brushes (Purdy or BM) to be great brushes for those low/ultra low/no VOC paints that are thicker, but use a water-based tint system
They seem to have a stiff enough bristle to move these thicker paints (w/o being a spatula and removing most of the paint at the same time), yet the bristles seem to have a soft enough end to give a nice smooth finish
And I like a firmer, thicker, brush for most apps
So me saying the Chinex is great for those apps is....well... to me...pretty surprising (I thought they were too thin, not firm enough for me, and were a "fake china bristle" when they first came out)
So I do not have a problem recommending them to anybody, PRO/DIY, for these types of coatings

4) Quick drying, great leveling, great touch-up when dry (even eggshell), no wet edge needed....so some of the Old School doesn't apply
Frankly...it's easier for DIYers to adapt

A) Better to cut in the whole room first, then roll...unless you are fast and/or the rooms are small
(normally a no-no when working with anything other than a true flat-you'll get "picture framing")

B) If you notice a holiday (missed, or not-quite covered spot), wait till it dries (an hour) and then touch up

Normally, with tradition paints (other than flats), a holiday must be hit while still wet or you'll have to re-do the whole piece, but with fast drying stuff like this, it'll be setting up after 10 minutes or less and will drag, pull, or lift if you try it...but that's OK, unlike traditionals, with this type of paint's it's just fine if you wait...even better actually...usually much better
They don't take kindly to a 10 minute later touch-up, but are great with the hour later one....they level out great by themselves with no over-brushing or over-rolling needed

C) Not too thick...it'll sag
Again, not a big deal as these tend to hide better, and do not need to go on thick
But a pro may want to work it like a traditional paint, and load it up in places
Again...no need
If it's sagging, you're too thick

D) Over-rolling/brushing
Many people, pros and diys, like to over-brush/roll to smooth out the finish as much as possible
That may be fine with some slow-drying and poor leveling paints
This stuff dries quick...just apply and move on
Don't worry...it levels great, and touches up like a dream

If you are dragging or pulling or lifting, you are going too slow... move along and don't worry...it touches up just fine

Sorry, as you are the first one to ask about Natura specifically, and the Ultra/No-VOC waterborne-tinted paints have little learning curve for those used to traditional paints (they are a bit different to apply), and they are still pretty new (as far as paints go), it was a good place for me to expound a bit

Basically:
If it's pulling, dragging, or lifting, you are going too slow or over-brushing/rolling
...move along and fix it later...it OK...You Can!
If it's sagging, you are putting it on too thick

Best of all, with Natura, you can stick your nose right in that can full of paint
What's that smell?
....mmmm...kinda maybe a li'l something...maybe....
Nothing anywhere near the smell of the first time you use that brand new toaster oven!!!

la15ota 03-12-2009 12:32 AM

Awsome
 
Thanks Slickshift and Dana.
All this info was great and I really feel like I can accomplish this job.

Currently the walls are beige and I plan on painting them a light blue, so my gut feeling is that a standard white primer will be ok. I do plan on sticking to the BM Natura line since its not stinky.

Slickshift, your explanations are great, I might suggest you post this in the How To Guides.

la15ota 03-16-2009 11:57 AM

Thanks Slickshift
 
Slickshift...thanks for all your advice it was excellent and right on.
I couldn't be happier with the results I got.
BM tinted the Natura primer to match the final coat and I'm overjoyed with the final outcome.
Natura was stink free and super easy to use for a diy'er.

Now comes tackling the numerous stripes I want to place around the room.

Thanks again:thumbsup:


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