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bigjon 01-31-2012 11:23 AM

Painting over patches
 
Looking into gophers thread about paint.
We bought a home where the old owners didn't really care about patch jobs before painting. Well after doing the popcorn removal, wallpaper removal etc. I'd rather not see these giant patches on my new paint.
After finally picking a gray color, ugh:censored:. We are (I'am) about ready to paint.

Here is a shot of the patch where I tested it out with the paint sample. There's about a dozen of these patches.

Thinking about going either promar 200-400 in flat or eggshell.
Of course suggestions welcome!
Thanks


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jsheridan 01-31-2012 04:03 PM

Pics didn't come through bigjon.

bigjon 01-31-2012 04:32 PM

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...de100/wall.png

jsheridan 01-31-2012 05:50 PM

YIKES! Jon, Jon, Jon, hmmmm! That's ugly-- in looks, and thoughts about how to fix. It's painted over. :eek: I don't deal with texture finishes really at all (I come from a smooth region), so I'll have to take some time to think about that one personally. There are many through here who are experienced with texture and may know what to do. It may be simpler than I fear. Hopefully. I'll watch and check back.

joecaption 01-31-2012 06:38 PM

It's next to impossible to do a repair on a textrured wall or ceiling without it showing. One of the dozen or so reason I hate to see it anyplace.
The only way to fix it 99% of the time is to retexture the whole wall or ceiling or remove the sheetrock and start over with a smooth wall.

Faron79 01-31-2012 09:33 PM

Hello Bigjon-

I like the spray-texture cans from Homax, both Oil & Water-based are available. We go thru LOTS of 'em at the ACE where I work.

I've gotten DAMN good at feathering-out my Orange-peel repairs using this stuff! There's a dial on the back of the spray-head to adjust droplet-size from real fine to larger. I literally can't find any of my repair areas!

If you're faced with, say, a 6" patch area:

* Have the spackle sanded out to a feather-edge. Your pictured spot will have to be sanded at the edge more....yes, I know there's paint there!
* Use a soft sanding sponge. It's easier to feather at the edges without pushing too hard.
* Get all dust off.
* Now for the actual texture spraying-
* Hold can ~ 18" to 2' away from wall. The INSTANT you press the button, move hand in a quick little spiral that starts small and gets bigger. The whole "shoot" may last 2 seconds!
* You'll be spraying maybe a circle ~ 1' or more across.
* When droplets are dry, spray a primer on, or brush a hazy coat of primer over the repairs.
* Then, ideally, prime ENTIRE wall.

>>> The whole key is using quick little random spiral motions!! Think of how a random-orbital sander moves...

PRACTICE on cardboard pieces briefly. You'll get the hang of how far you need to be from wall, droplet-size adjustment, and leaving the center of your repair slightly denser than the outer areas where texture already is.

You'll only be "fogging" the outer areas of this imaginary circle, since there's already texture there.

Last fall, I took down a border in DD's bathroom. I purposely took off the layer of paint too. Sanded paint edge, skim-coated with mud, primed where border was with Gardz, sprayed the 1' x 20' "path" with this spray-texture, primed whole wall, then painted.
>>> I can't even tell where the border was!! My texture-feathering was perfect.

Faron

jsheridan 01-31-2012 10:21 PM

Not to dis your technique Faron, but sanding without pushing too hard? I'm thinking machine sand with 80 wt paper, or rougher. All those ridges also are not going to sand out easily with at least two layers of paint over them. Plus, he has like 12 of those patches to do. I accidentally rolled over a nail pop patch last week that I patched between finish coats, and on a smooth wall I couldn't get it sanded out without damaging it and having to skim coat it again. I may know little about texture finishes, but I do know about sanding out painted over patches, I don't, I spackle over them.

bigjon 02-01-2012 06:45 AM

I've played with some of those cans before. Thanks for the tip. As you can tell some of the drops stick out a little more than the rest also. I was gonna hit the wall with a pole sanders to maybe lay down some of those. I can go after the patches with some sanding also. Another thought I had was just to have the knockdown guys shoot new orange peel but I haven't talked to them if that is even possible or how that would turn out.

How about Promar 200-400? I can get it for 19+ gallon or should I get something else?

Jay 78 02-01-2012 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjon (Post 840284)
We are (I'am) about ready to paint.

With a dozen spots like that to deal with, painting might be a long way off, unfortunately. :(
Quote:

Originally Posted by Faron79 (Post 840871)

I like the spray-texture cans from Homax, both Oil & Water-based are available. We go thru LOTS of 'em at the ACE where I work.

I have tried that exact stuff, and my results were terrible. Adding insult to injury was the fact that it's $15 per 16oz can, and with the way that stuff launches out of the nozzle, it doesn't go very far. I swore I'd never use it again, but...

I wish I would have seen your post before I ever attempted using it. The main problem I had was trying to prime over it. As you know, when it's dry, it rubs off very easily. A wet rag would remove it all in one swipe. Knowing this, I left it alone and primed over it with a roller, only to find that the roller was pulling it all off the wall. Spraying or lightly brushing the primer over it to seal it is a good idea, and probably the only way to get good results with this texture. The instructions on the can make no mention of priming it this way, but it should. Your suggestions for application are right on, too, since using this is nothing like using rattle-can spray paint. There's definitely a learning curve.

Personally, my approach to the OP's situation would be to sand the entire walls, skim coat everything, lightly sand again, then prime.

Faron79 02-02-2012 12:20 AM

Oh yeah...I knew it wasn't gonna be easy!
That's what I hinted at when I said "I realize there's paint there already...."

For the "undone" areas-
Get a couple of the "Squishy" sanding pads. They're only ~ 1/8" thick, so they "give" when feather-sanding over the edges of a repair. I get mine at the ACE where I work. There's also the bigger sanding-sponges too obviously. These are much stiffer/thicker.

* Once I've got my patch-edges feathered, & dust removed, I brush a clear coat of Zinsser's Gardz primer over the area, and ~1' past. ANY spray-primer will work though...Cover-stain, etc.
* Then I spray the texture on, using the random, small-spiral motions. SHORT-QUICK bursts are all you need!
* When the text. is dry, spray-prime it again.
* Now the regular roll-on primer system over the whole wall.

Now your wall has subtle, blended texture that's LOCKED in, and a nice even coat of rolled-on primer.
Your new topcoats of paint now have the IDEAL base, with NO uneven porosity to affect its sheen.

Here's a project I'm doing this week...
Lucky me...fixing the interior portion of a foundation leak!
(Fixed the outside last fall)
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...f/HPIM1995.jpg

So...I'll soon be putting my mudding/spray-texturing skills to work again!

Faron
http://www.diychatroom.com/[IMG]http...f/HPIM1995.jpg

bigjon 02-06-2012 07:42 AM

Looks like I'll be renting the porter cable wall sander. My hopes are that I can take enough off so I can skim it, otherwise I'll have to have the spray guys do a new consistent orange peel I suppose.


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