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Old 07-01-2011, 09:25 AM   #31
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Painting Old House


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Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
Look, ideally you would be told to strip it all off and start again...LOL And whereas this is the 'correct' approach, it may not be practical in many situations...

In days gone by, around the time your house was built, they painted the wood siding with a linseed oil paint and the job lasted for 20-30 years...father did the first job, then the son did the next one. But nowadays, especially where latex exterior paints are concerned, you're lucky to get 10 years out of a paint job. It's now become a routine chore. But now the wood is dry and the necessity of replacing that lost oil from the wood, and ths an oil paint or an alkyd is called for.

That's on bare wood. Now if you say you have part bare wood part old paint, then you're at the stage of spot maintenace - and that means treating the bare wood one way, the old paint another because the requirements aren't the same. So oil-prime the bare wood but don't prime the old paint.

But make sure the bare wood is dry; if you have a moisture meter, make sure there is no excess moisture coming from the inside of your house through the wood and out to the exterior; that'll cause a premature paint failure guaranteed.

Now when it's all dry, you're then faced with essentially two surfaces. Now depending on what the old paint is, and what the new paint you're putting on is, the results may differ - that's why it's a bit of a tough call from where we sit. See, an acrylic 'new' paint may dry and pull off the old paint - or might not.

So it;'s hard to predict what might happen; you might try different sorts of new paint, an acrylic, an oil or alkyd new paint or a latex new paint and see what the effects are. A quart of each would do.

Not a definitive answer but there is no way of knowing what will happen and apart from "strip it all", that's about the best advice someone could offer. Far be it from anyone here to say "paint the whole house with Brand X type of paint", for it to start peeling in 6 months. And nobody here is an on-site expert.

Except the Omaha-quack that is...LOL
Very well said ccarlisle!!

I called the Benjamin Moore store 14 miles from me and talked to the owner for a good 20 minutes or more. when I read your post, I nearly fell of my ball as he had said alot of what you said.

The BM owner has been in the business for over 30 years. He asked me about my house and told me that oil primer is exactly what I need on the bare wood. Then since the house is old, there isn't a vapor barrier in the walls and the insulation is not like the new insulation so you get heat loss thru the walls along with moisture. That moisture will push against the existing paint and cause it to loosen. This means that I will to do paint maintenance 4 or 6 maybe 7 years from now, but it will be on the existing paint on the house right now. The bare wood areas prepped right with good quality paint should last longer.
I had told him about the SW paint sale and asked if he could match it.
said he couldn't but he would give 10% off. (He really was trying to sell me on BM paint.)-
Now what he said to me made my decision easy.He said that SW has good paint and sells alot of paint for less and they only make afew dollars a gallon. This has worked for them.
This tells me that SW "Super Paint" at regular price of 44.50 @30%= $31.50 at or better than the BM "Ben" paint at about 47 bucks@ 10%= 42.90.
Since I will always have to do maintenance on painting due to "old house syndrome", I went and bought SW super paint with the 30% off. Also bought some oil primer too.

From what all of you great people have said about paints (has Steered me to SW & BM paints.) and that BM storeowner told me, I know that no matter if a I put the SW "Duration" or the $70 BM "Aura" or the Super Paint I bought on a good sale, I will have to paint again because of paint failure due to the old house "syndrome".


Last edited by Smokin Gun; 07-01-2011 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:27 AM   #32
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The kicker is "Dry Time: Dries to the touch in about 30 minutes; can be recoated in 1 hour."

and right there is why you do NOT want to use it as a primer for exterior, it drys so quick it has no time to sink into the wood and do it's job properly.

There, now I think I am done with this subject. As I said earlier, if I was painting this house it would get a slow dry oil( alkyd) primer over the WHOLE surface( despite was carlisle has proposed) and 2 top coats of 100% acrylic paint.
Chris, even though you are right, I am only priming the bare wood as I am dealing with the "old house syndrome" and no matter how well I prep and paint, I will have paint failure down the line.

I have learn so much from you guys!!

Last edited by Smokin Gun; 07-01-2011 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 12:46 AM   #33
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Painting Old House


One last question?
Does it matter if I use an old brush to apply the oil primer?
I know your suppose to use natural bristle brushes for oil pant, does that include oil primers?
We bought three different sizes of Purdy brushes that are nylon/polyester blend for SW super paint. I don't really want to use them for the oil primer.

O.K. That was two questions.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:41 AM   #34
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1) How old? You don't want a peice of crap brush to prime with as it will show through the finish in the long run.

2) Yes
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:30 AM   #35
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Thanks Chris-
I just took my paint brush inventory.
The old brushes are three nylon/polyester, (One might be just polyester.) two are 1.5 inch, the other is a 4 inch (also a nylon/polyester blend). That is the one that I was thinking about using on the siding.
The New brushes include one natural that is 1.5 inch. We will use that one for priming the trim.
The old ones aren't in bad shape as I always work at cleaning them the best I can.
We had bought three different sizes of Purdy brushes and a brush comb. I plan on taking breaks every three hours(when we are painting with the SW super paint.) or maybe less to "clean the paint brushes".
We also had this new brush I didn't kow we had. It's a "Accuflo". The price tag says $13.99 I know we've had this one for years, as I don't remember buying it. It might have been in a box I got at an auction. I know it is a good one as it has a wood handle and the metal is riveted to the wood. Also has the reuseable cardboard cover.

From what you said about natural bristles for the oil primers, I will go buy a 3 or 4 inch natural bristle brush.

Thanks for all the good advice you've given me.

Last edited by Smokin Gun; 07-04-2011 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:26 PM   #36
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I don't know how big your'e hands are or how big an area you are painting but a 4 in brush is BIG
my go to brushes are almost all 2 1/2 in with a 4 for doing large flat siding in latex only and it will wear you out in a day.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:24 AM   #37
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I went and bought a 3 inch natural bristle and did half of the east side before threatening weather approched.
Went fine.
Thanks for the info on the 4" brushes. Makes sense, I'll save that for the garden shed painting project.

Those paint combs are great. Makes the brush look like new again.

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