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george6223 11-12-2013 03:40 PM

Painting a Metal Door
 
I have a metal door painted with Oil Paint. It had a lot of chips in it. I painted over it with Latex first using Easy Liquid Sander Deglosser. THe paint pulled off in sheets. I did another door using acrylic Paint and had the same problem. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG????????

Any Help is appreciated.

Jmayspaint 11-12-2013 03:57 PM

Liquid de-glossers are notorious for not working. I'm sure it helps, but using a de-glosser alone often isn't enough prep to ensure a good bond over oil like that.

For a better bond, sand them lightly but thoroughly then clean or de gloss.
I have found that most average acrylic paints won't bond really well to smooth metal doors even with prep. I like to use a bonding primer, or a specialty paint like Advance or Breakthrough.

ToolSeeker 11-12-2013 06:04 PM

I have heard the problem so many times after using the de-glosser. After a good sanding and wipe down then a good primer you should be good to go. I have used SW ASE (all surface enamel) on ext. doors and really like it. Would like to hear if anyone else has used it. In fact this is what I used on the doors on my house. Or if you sand it down you could use a DTM paint (direct to metal).

Startingover 11-12-2013 08:13 PM

Haven't had a chance to use this yet but the guy at my S.W. gave me, "All Surface, Enamel, Oil Based Satin" for my metal front door which has been previously painted. It almost looks like factory paint or original paint, 30 yo and in perfect condition, but cream and I want white.

I'll let you know how it works.

747 11-12-2013 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToolSeeker (Post 1265827)
I have heard the problem so many times after using the de-glosser. After a good sanding and wipe down then a good primer you should be good to go. I have used SW ASE (all surface enamel) on ext. doors and really like it. Would like to hear if anyone else has used it. In fact this is what I used on the doors on my house. Or if you sand it down you could use a DTM paint (direct to metal).


Do you use a primer before laying the SW ASE down? Or just sanded to scuff up for adhesion then ASE?

ToolSeeker 11-12-2013 09:47 PM

If the door is in good shape I would just scuff and clean. If you do any repair or sand thru and get bare spots then I would prime.

kkeith 11-13-2013 10:22 AM

I have also learned from experience not to trust painting an acrylic enamel over an oil based enamel without an intermediate bonding primer. Even with the bonding primer the surface needs to be sanded to ensure a good grip.

Startingover 11-14-2013 07:20 AM

On sanding:

Sanding previous painted steel door. Should I use a small electric hand sander? What grit paper? Or, is a light once over by hand enough?

ToolSeeker 11-14-2013 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Startingover (Post 1266439)
On sanding:

Sanding previous painted steel door. Should I use a small electric hand sander? What grit paper? Or, is a light once over by hand enough?

Why are you painting it? Just color change, damaged, peeling. Is there a build up of old paint? These are factors that will effect the answers. In some extreme cases you may be better off stripping. I mean the door of course.:whistling2:

Jmayspaint 11-14-2013 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Startingover
On sanding:

Sanding previous painted steel door. Should I use a small electric hand sander? What grit paper? Or, is a light once over by hand enough?


The point of sanding in this case is to dull the gloss and etch the surface. You could use a sander, but hand sanding is sufficient.

I would use 150-220 paper. A Scotch brite abrasive pad works too.

Startingover 11-14-2013 08:57 AM

LOL, a naked painter.

2 steel doors, original 30 yo paint. Excellent condition (wondered if they were factory painted) but I don't like the color.


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