Painting latex enamel over old polyurethane doors

asmith4035

Does anyone know If I will have any problems painting doors that have been up for 20 years and were originally stained and polyurethaned? I plan on roughing them up by sanding with rough (100), and then medium (160) sandpaper. Then priming with a latex primer and panting with a semi-gloss or hi-gloss latex paint. Or do I plan on making a mistake with this procedure? All help appreciated.
Thanks

Gymschu

Sounds good, just be sure your primer is a BONDING primer that will stick to the glossy surfaces. Most every major paint brand has a BONDING primer in their arsenal. P.S. And, don't forget to use a tack cloth to remove the dust after you sand.

asmith4035

Thanks, especially for the "bonding" primer tip.

jsheridan

Unless your surface is rough enough to require successive grits, I would just do one sand with 120, even 150, weight paper. If you're using a bonding primer, good plan, then you really don't need to go that heavy with paper, especially if you might go the high gloss route. Using 100 grit on a door surface may create scratches that appear to the eye, touch, to be gone after the 160 treatment, however, a high gloss finish may just show you how wrong you are. Use a lighter grit and let the bonding primer do its job. Have fun!

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ltd

wash,rinse,then all you have to do is go over ever inch with fine sand paper .all your doing is deglossing . wipe off any dust. for me i would use zinsser cover stain ,its a oil base .school of thought is to use a china bristle brush for oil, but i like a nylon polyester brush it leaves fewer brush marks. let dry ,caulk in any gapes ,then 2 coats top quality latex

asmith4035

Thank you ALL for your responses. I am really impressed with how quickly people are willing to help.

Will22

All bonding primers will not stick to aged polyurethane, which is basically hard plastic. It is recommended to remove this material with a P&V remover, so that there is no residue which may reject the new coating.

jsheridan

Do you mean "all bonding primers will not stick", which is another way of saying that none will? Or, do you mean "not all binding primers will stick", which is another way of saying that some will, some won't. I just benefited from my Modern College Math course. Most bonding primers are spec'd for plastic, hard or not. OP, choose one specifically spec'd for plastic and test it out. Put some on, allow it to dry two days, then press some tape onto it and rip it off. The primer should remain bonded.

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Gymschu

I've never had a failure using bonding primers from SW, Benny Moore, Valspar, etc.

asmith4035

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help.
Regards

Matthewt1970

A good bonding primer or oil will be fine. My question is do you REALLY want to paint them?

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Latex Primer: Good for Drywall, that's about it.
Behr Paint: The plastic buckets are good, that's about it.

asmith4035

Again,
Thanks to everyone. Mathewt1970, I am completely refinishing, flooring, baseboards, trim, etc. most of my house on weekends and days off. I have decided to replace the interior doors, trim and door stop, only keeping the frames. Wife wants to put in solid interior doors anyway. I get to hone up my carpentry skills also. Instead of sanding the frames I am using a stripper. Never done that before, takes the old poly off down to the bare wood (and stain) Heck of a lot easier than all of that sanding.

Again, Thanks to everyone for taking the time.
alan