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Old 09-07-2012, 04:37 PM   #1
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Painting Kitchen Cabinets


Sorry for the long post, but it seems the more information a questioner gives up front the less frustrating it is for everyone.

I will be painting my kitchen cabinets - they are from the 1950's and are plywood - something similar in grain to Maple. They are covered in cooking grease, nicotine and dust - inside and outside on top and on the bottom too - which I am in the process of scrubbing/scraping off. That process seems to be somewhat removing the finish - not highly concerned about that. I also do not know what that finish is and its highly possible that the original builder used one finish and a later owner used something else that wasn't necessarily compatible. (Somebody painted all my doors, trim and the bathroom with flat paint over a semi-gloss - they clearly had no idea what they were doing)

I am the same person who was advised to go with the Zinsser Cover Stain on a ceiling with gloss paint and nicotine stains. That is the plan.

My goal is to get a durable finish on the cabinets - not to just go the easy route. I am already planning on sanding between coats. I will be using a light colored paint in a Satin or similar sheen. I am painting both the inside and the outside of my cabinets. I am buying a spray gun for this project. Here are my questions:

1. Can I use the Cover Stain on the cabinets as the primer - I was thinking that maybe I can just prime the walls/ceiling/cabinets all at once. HOWEVER, if that is a dumb idea I would rather take more time or use multiple products and do it right.

2. I have been researching Sherwin Williams Latex Enamel paints - good idea? Would Benjamin Moore, Pittsburg Paints, or McCormick be better? I am perfectly happy to use an oil (yellowing?) or other more difficult to clean paint and these cabinets should have about 30 days to cure before we move in.

Thank you for your help.


Last edited by BSR; 09-07-2012 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:48 PM   #2
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Painting Kitchen Cabinets


Dirtex or Soilex works really good to clean with - no residue to worry about.
Cover Stain is good for priming them, but depending on how you apply know that a even smooth finish, even in the prime is important because any brush stokes could show through. I like to thin CS just a little for this reason.
Sand lightly but thoroughly after cleaning .

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Old 09-07-2012, 06:57 PM   #3
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Painting Kitchen Cabinets


Key is getting them clean. I have often started on gruesome smoker homes with something like Purple Power from the auto store and finished up with TSP or dirtex. The danger with something like PP is you have to rinse thoroughly as it can leave a film. But it really does break down the sticky orange gunk!

You should be able to spray Cover Stain primer on everything all at once. As posted in your other thread, I will recommend you keep BIN primer at front of mind or in with your hat full of magic rabbits if the nicotine and tar bleeds (not just shows) through the Cover Stain.

And please set up adequate ventilation and wear an aspirator and eye protection when spraying either or you will end up very light headed and minus a few brain cells for sure. A complete tyvek or other protective material suit will set you back $10 retail? Hint, hint.

As for latex acrylics vs. oil. There was a time when you could not achieve the smooth finish with waterbased products you can with oil. But the world is head toward low VOC waterbased products and modern finishes are hard to beat. I actually think latex acrylic a better choice for kitchens and baths anyhow. Others may disagree.

Acrylic will surface dry faster than oil but will take up to 30 days to fully cure.

As for the paint brands you mentioned? I used all of them except McCormick so am guessing that is regional to you? The paint store version of all the brands you mentioned will be fine. By the best your budget will allow. My preference is Benjamin Moore with Sherwin Williams second but they and Pittsburgh would all fall between 9 and 10 on a scale and I wouldn't balk at applying any of them. See which store will give you a deal if they are all close to you. Don't be afraid to ask for a discount and look online and in the paper for coupons.

That said one warning statement. The Pittsburgh product Menard's sells is absolutely terrible and maybe even worse than any other box store paint I have been forced to use on volunteer and charity projects. Stay away from it.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:24 AM   #4
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Painting Kitchen Cabinets


Quote:
Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Key is getting them clean. I have often started on gruesome smoker homes with something like Purple Power from the auto store and finished up with TSP or dirtex. The danger with something like PP is you have to rinse thoroughly as it can leave a film. But it really does break down the sticky orange gunk!

You should be able to spray Cover Stain primer on everything all at once. As posted in your other thread, I will recommend you keep BIN primer at front of mind or in with your hat full of magic rabbits if the nicotine and tar bleeds (not just shows) through the Cover Stain.

And please set up adequate ventilation and wear an aspirator and eye protection when spraying either or you will end up very light headed and minus a few brain cells for sure. A complete tyvek or other protective material suit will set you back $10 retail? Hint, hint.

As for latex acrylics vs. oil. There was a time when you could not achieve the smooth finish with waterbased products you can with oil. But the world is head toward low VOC waterbased products and modern finishes are hard to beat. I actually think latex acrylic a better choice for kitchens and baths anyhow. Others may disagree.

Acrylic will surface dry faster than oil but will take up to 30 days to fully cure.

As for the paint brands you mentioned? I used all of them except McCormick so am guessing that is regional to you? The paint store version of all the brands you mentioned will be fine. By the best your budget will allow. My preference is Benjamin Moore with Sherwin Williams second but they and Pittsburgh would all fall between 9 and 10 on a scale and I wouldn't balk at applying any of them. See which store will give you a deal if they are all close to you. Don't be afraid to ask for a discount and look online and in the paper for coupons.

That said one warning statement. The Pittsburgh product Menard's sells is absolutely terrible and maybe even worse than any other box store paint I have been forced to use on volunteer and charity projects. Stay away from it.

Yes it is and if you stick to their higher end products , it is fine paint. As well as any of the rest on the list, go for the highr end for cabnets
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:48 AM   #5
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Painting Kitchen Cabinets


Thank you all for your help. I will be following all the advice.

I have found that asking questions here gets me better and quicker responses than emailing manufacturers. - Except Kilz - they got back to me at 10pm to make sure that I knew their product wasn't any good over gloss paint without sanding and not to sand on lead paint.
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