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Old 03-06-2008, 12:32 PM   #16
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Painting interior doors


I have hardly ever used Floetrol by the directions.It all depends on humidity/heat/or lack of heat.There is a just right amount when you apply paint and it flows together.No streaks,No pulling,or just plain falling off the material being painted.But I always use a little and go from there.Better to not have enough than to have to much.In this case any way.Brushes are key.This would be a good go to brush,a XL 3.5 inch
http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/series/detail/12
Or maybe a nylox bristle 3.5 or 4 inch http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/series/detail/6
Can never go wrong with a nylon/poly mix.The angled tip(or sash brush) is great for cutting in like say a raised panel door.Lets not forget the milwork as well.Great brush for windows to.Are you rolling out the larger areas of your door or just brushing it all out? If your not using a roller then maybe one might be of help to you.I would use a 3/8 to 1/4 inch nap roller.http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/covers/detail/7 Roll out the big areas then feather it flat.I would then cut in the edges and cut in any panels.

Good Luck

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Last edited by mark942; 03-06-2008 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 03-06-2008, 12:58 PM   #17
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Painting interior doors


Mark,
Duh,I didn't even think of using a roller on these doors.It would seem after sanding off the old brush marks the roller would do most of the coverage with hardly any brush marks showing and finish the rest with a brush.I have narrow width rollers here with the proper nap. Any suggestions on the material the roller should be made ? I suppose like the brushes there better rollers out there to buy and use. "End Grain" suggested a different brand of paint brush but once again if a roller covers most of the door then the brush will see limited use.This is a great site. Thanks for everyones help.Keep the suggestions coming
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Old 03-07-2008, 03:39 AM   #18
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Painting interior doors


[quote=Pawl"End Grain" suggested a different brand of paint brush but once again if a roller covers most of the door then the brush will see limited use.[/quote]

Pawl,Your back brushing with a brush.Wouldn't it seem that if your looking for the best result, that a good brush should be used? As for the roller,Lambswool IMO is as far up the material pinnacle you can get for a roller skin. They are a bit on the pricey side but if taken good care of will last the test of time.I posted a link there as so you may see what I am talking about.The link also gives out the size in both nap and length of roller.If you do go with a lami or any other material, be sure to take a piece of duct tape and wrap it 1/2 way around the roller skin and work it back and fourth as to get any little particles off the nap before you use it. If the price of lami roller skins keep you from buying,then a 3/16 to 1/4 inch nap roller will work well.Mohair blends are a good choice.Again a bit on the pricey side.
http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster...end_p/r207.htm
Or maybe try a foam skin
http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster_Pro_Tiz_p/r265.htm
Here is yet another good choice if your wanting to just use it and toss it.
http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster...o_Z_p/r203.htm
Any way I have rambled enough.Good Luck.
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:37 AM   #19
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Painting interior doors


Mark, ramble away. I have not painted yet. Do you still feel a good brush will do a better job than a roller?
On the bright side I purchased a gallon of the SW Pro Classic semi gloss enamel /waterborne interior acrylic for $34.01 instead of $47.23 because the salesman let me use one of the accounts there belonging to someone else.
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:47 AM   #20
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Painting interior doors


I knew I forgot to ask one more thing. The guy at the paint store did not think I needed to add Floetrol to this Pro Classic Paint. In fact he didn't even know what it was until I pointed over to the shelf 5 feet away from him to show him what it was.The store was not that big meaning they are supposed to specialize in selling paint and should know something about everything they sell. He could have been fairly new.Suddenly his credibility went out the window. I an under the impression that the extender Floetrol gives me more wet time. So using it in the Pro Classic would make sense.Any thoughts?
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Old 03-07-2008, 11:24 AM   #21
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Painting interior doors


Pawl, in addition to retarding the drying time, I find that Floetrol helps enamels to level out much faster and more evenly. Here in AZ, the majority of housepainters spray and therefore thin the paint down accordingly. I only use a brush and roller so it's more than difficult to paint inside in constant AC or outside in 100+ temperatures as any latex paint out of the can dries too quickly and the enamels are prone to leaving high spots, brush marks and lap marks. Floetrol is the only thing that I have found works well with brush and/or roller without affecting or compromising the fit or finish of the paint itself. I get nice, smooth consistent results from it. But again, I'm not painting entire rooms or houses. I'm doing small-to-medium touch-ups or, like you, a door and frame here or there. Occasionally, I get the accent wall.
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Old 03-07-2008, 11:40 AM   #22
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Painting interior doors


Here we go again !!! Can someone tell me what a foam roller is all about . The guy at Sherman Williams said they recommend painting doors with a 4" or 6" foam roller.
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Old 03-08-2008, 03:17 AM   #23
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Painting interior doors


The 4 to 6 inch roller, might be length. I really couldn't imagine using a nap that thick for doors......
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Old 03-10-2008, 03:32 PM   #24
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Painting interior doors


latex always has brush strokes. Flotrol or thinning with water will help give better flow. Airless with a small tip 210 will give a great finish but touch ups with brush and roller are imposible.
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:16 PM   #25
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Painting interior doors


Okay everybody,
Heres what I ended up doing. Brush marks were my problem.I decided to roll the paint on with a 4" wide small roller. The mini one not the 2" diameter one. I sanded off the old paint on two doors I initially painted with a brush. What a pain.I just could not stand looking at these nice doors with brush marks all over the place. I just got it smooth enough on those two doors so you can't see the brush marks.These doors I bought are those pre hung Bellagio interior doors made by Masonite from Home depot.
Click here: Palazzo Series Doors <------
I painted the raised trim on the doors with a 1.5" brush and then I carefully rolled the rest of the door. Two coats. I was slow and methodical because I want it right and I was practicing patience.I primed everything.I went over the doors with 400 and 600 sandpaper between coats to keep the tiny lumps and everything else floating in the air off.The finish with the roller appears to be a light light orange peel that if you step one foot away it all looks really nice.I put satin nickel door knobs on with satin nickel hinges.It really gives the house more character.I want to thank everyone for their input and I have to go because I have eleven more to install. SW Pro Classic waterbourne interior acrylic semi gloss enamel.Even the guy at the paint store sold me the paint cheaper on someone elses account as long as I was cash or credit card. Yeah! Thanks again
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:04 PM   #26
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Painting interior doors


The doors I purchased are already primed with what appears to be a latex primer. Does everyone still recommend priming the doors again before I use the SW Pro Classic. If so what kind of primer do I use oil or latex? Can I paint over the oil base primer with Pro Classic acrylic enamel?
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:26 PM   #27
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I am back again. The mind is a terrible thing to waste. What advantages are there to using oil primer over latex primer and vice-versa.
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:03 AM   #28
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Painting interior doors


Oil with stands the test of time. Time after time after time................
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Old 03-15-2008, 04:43 PM   #29
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Painting interior doors


A random thought, but for vertical surfaces (like a door) painting before installation with the item in a horizontal position would enlist the aid of gravity in leveling out the paint. Maybe?

IME, for a *really level finish, as mentioned, nothing beats an unused quality brush, and a never opened can of paint.

I'm learning that the more you open and close a can of paint it starts to become difficult to work with. Guessing here that the driers evaporate and that new spreadability quality rapidly disipates. Good luck on that 3 yr. old half gallon in the storage shed with the rusty rim on top.

Never used Floetrol, but it's high on my immediate list...

*I'm an amateur DIYer and I try not to further handicap myself by using poor materials and tools.*

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