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Old 11-18-2012, 01:06 PM   #1
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Painting Exterior Trim


I am about to paint new exterior fascia, soffit and frieze board but the materials are mixed. The fascia is PVC and the soffit and frieze board are primed pine boards.

I've read that it may be best to prime the pvc with specialty primer like STIX. It may be overkill but would it hurt if I also primed the primed pine with STIX before painting with acrylic semi-gloss paint?

I'm looking for the best adhesion, quality and durability.

Thank you for your assistance.

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Old 11-18-2012, 01:39 PM   #2
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Painting Exterior Trim


That depends Dido. Is it necessary? That depends. Generally, a primer should be reprimed if not finished with thirty or so days, they vary, but that rarely happens. The primer job is to bond to the surface, primarily, among other things. But it also provides a base for the finish. Technically, two different primers could result in a slight different look in the finish, which probably wouldn't be an issue up high. Stix is a high quality sealer, which I'm sure is not the case with the primed pine, so they'll absorb the finish at different rates, with the Stix leaving a higher final sheen. Technicalities, yes. But if it makes you feel better and you think the job will benefit from the labor, go for it. It won't hurt you if that's what you're wondering.

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Old 11-18-2012, 04:02 PM   #3
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Is it warm enough where you are?
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:19 PM   #4
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With the pine, I would be most concerned about knots and sap wounds bleeding and you need a sealer for that. Not sure if STIX claims to seal out such things? Shellac before the primer, or a shellac based primer is the old standby. Pine should really have had not just a primer coat but a sealer overall since it is so porous and can suck up material.

I've never used it but I know STIX is supposed to stick to PVC and plastics and that you can paint over it with anything. Exterior plastics are not only difficult because of adhesion issues but because they expand and contract so dramatically and the primer and paint needs to flex too.

Ordinarily, adding primer on primer serves no real purpose. However, I never trust ultra thin coated factory primed surfaces so I would definitely hit the pine with something else before your finish coats.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:29 PM   #5
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Thank you everyone for the quick replies.

The house is located in northern NJ and it's supposed to be 50s during the day and 30s at night. I'm running out of good days to work with so since it's not supposed to rain this week I'm hoping to get it all done before Thursday.

The soffits and frieze were installed within the past 3 weeks so haven't been sitting around very long.

I have the same concern about the quality of the primer used on the pine boards. Some of the primed pine boards (frieze and other 1x trim) are described by the lumber yard as having "oil-alkyd primer with a bright white acrylic latex topcoat". I paid extra so hopefully they are good. Other tongue and groove beadboard is from a different supplier and is primed but I"m not sure what was used for this. During installation we sealed all cut joints with acrylic spray primer.

I checked and the hardware store didn't have STIX but only had Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Plus Primer. I'm hoping they are equivalent.

One other question is about the caulk. Acrylic or acrylic with silicone?
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dido View Post

I checked and the hardware store didn't have STIX but only had Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Plus Primer. I'm hoping they are equivalent.

One other question is about the caulk. Acrylic or acrylic with silicone?
123 is good stuff. It should stick to PVC. The spec sheet says 10C or 50F is the bottom temperature threshold though.

Rustoleum also makes a liquid primer just for plastics but I don't know if you can find it easily locally.

A little silicone in your caulk will give it some flexibility. Too much and the stuff is a nightmare and you cannot paint over it. Make sure you are using an exterior caulk. Again ambient and surface temperature and it curing is your challenge.

Last edited by user1007; 11-18-2012 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:08 PM   #7
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Just a caution, don't use shellac as a full prime coat, only spot prime. Don't push too far with the cold, if the paint freezes before it cures it will probably fail and peel. All your trim is primed so it can survive the winter okay.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:43 PM   #8
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Thank you I was taught to only use shellac primer to spot but on here I have seen it recommended to do the whole room with it. I just thought maybe something changed.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:14 PM   #9
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Seems like it will be too cold to do this so I will hold off.

Am I making this too complicated? Should I just spot prime the filled in nail holes and paint it all with a good latex paint? I don't mind doing the extra work if it will mean a longer lasting finish.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:35 AM   #10
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Thank you I was taught to only use shellac primer to spot but on here I have seen it recommended to do the whole room with it. I just thought maybe something changed.

You can do an interior room , it is not recommended for exterior application except to spot prime.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:11 AM   #11
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Shellac is shellac and for spot priming knots, sap wounds, etc. BIN is a shellac based primer and is ofen used on entire rooms, especially when trying to seal in smoke or smoker damage. BIN has more than shellac in it.
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:54 PM   #12
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[quote=sdsester;1055902]Shellac is shellac and for spot priming knots, sap wounds, etc. BIN is a shellac based primer and is ofen used on entire rooms, especially when trying to seal in smoke or smoker damage. BIN has more than shellac in it.[/quote]


yea, like extra stink and brain cell damaging components
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:51 AM   #13
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OK next question I guess would have to be why would you ever use it to do a whole room? I have used it a lot for stain blocking, but just spotting there are a lot of primers that deal with odors and such and are a lot cheaper than $42 a gallon.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToolSeeker View Post
OK next question I guess would have to be why would you ever use it to do a whole room? I have used it a lot for stain blocking, but just spotting there are a lot of primers that deal with odors and such and are a lot cheaper than $42 a gallon.

one word, nicotine
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:46 PM   #15
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Painting Exterior Trim


It's also an excellent base coat for sheen enamels.

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