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Stonemeel 08-30-2007 10:45 AM

Painting Exterior Spruce Rough-sawn trim questions
 
Weather looks good this weekend here in MI for some DIY painting on my home remodel, but have a few questions before I start. I'm planning on using the California brand Fres-Coat Ext. Acrylic Lates Trouble Shooter paint and primer in their standard white color.....1 coat primer and 2 coats of paint.

Some people have said I should use a solid based stain instead......anyone have some quick pros and cons to each method?

Also, when should I do the caulk on the trim....before the primer, after the primer dries or after the 2 coats of finish is applied?

Best size and lines of brushes/rollers to do this job...especially the soffit (1 ft.).....Purdy?

Is there anything special or skill-based when it comes to painting rough-sawn that I should know? It doesn't seem like you have to be that critical like with interior painting but what do I, jack of many, master of very few, know.....

I'm using hardieplank fiber-cement board pre-stained for the siding after the trim is painted along with some cultured stone.

Would appreciate any comments and tips....thx....

Da Vinci 09-01-2007 08:34 PM

Never used that brand before, but prime/paint is probably best for your situation. Prime trim before caulking- it will last longer.

Use whatever brush you feel comfortable with, but at least 2 1/2" or 3" sash brush. Use small roller to roll the faces of the trim to save time.

BAy Area Painting Contractor

Hamilton 09-02-2007 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stonemeel (Post 60486)
Is there anything special or skill-based when it comes to painting rough-sawn that I should know? It doesn't seem like you have to be that critical like with interior painting but what do I, jack of many, master of very few, know...

Some suggestions, FWIW :

I would use a heavy thick exterior oil base primer that has excellent tannin blocking properties, especially on new wood. If you are putting new latex on old latex you might not have to prime at all (if the old is still in reasonably good shape).

If you are cutting in different colors lay a heavy caulk line after priming; it will make it easier to cut.

Personally I would use a very low sheen paint, or flat, on rough saw lumber - glossy stuff is too vinyl and plastic looking.

Da Vinci 09-02-2007 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hamilton (Post 60955)
Some suggestions, FWIW :

Personally I would use a very low sheen paint, or flat, on rough saw lumber - glossy stuff is too vinyl and plastic looking.

I agree. Glossy doesn't look good. Flat is more commonly used but low sheen works too.

Bay Area Painting Contractor

Stonemeel 09-07-2007 02:00 PM

Thanks for the tips guys.....I've been priming/painting the rough sawn spruce for 6 days straight - 12 hours days....and I'm only about half done!! The priming is killing me....get about 3 inches on a fully loaded brush. I have most of the house primed and the second floor hard to reach areas and gables finished with two coats. I'm not that experienced of a painter but the California went on very nice.....and looks good too! I'm using a Purdy 3" sash brush that is holding up very well to the rough sawn.

I decided to try the California brand primer and velvet flat paint in their standard white since I'm going with all white trim to match the JW aluminum clad windows. I primed all big/dark knots with Zinssner 123 before priming with the California Trouble-Shooter with stain blocker just in case. I'm going to use pre-stained Hardieplank for the siding and some cultured stone for a belt-line and a few faces with a bunch of copper sweeps.

Since it is white I figure I can caulk after all the painting is completed....today is the first rain day so I'm taking a much needed break.

Here is a link to the pics that I'm updating as I go...

http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x...emeel/Remodel/

Hamilton 09-07-2007 07:12 PM

VERY nice home!!

Are you doing all that trim with a brush?!?!? :eek: The eaves too??? If you say yes then we're gonna have to have a talk about 4" and 6" rollers. :thumbup:

I would also use an airless, with smallest tip, just to shoot under the eaves.

I hate painting two stories but I wouldn't mind doing that pretty thing.

Stonemeel 09-10-2007 07:46 AM

I hate to tell you this but I did brush it all on.....I was going to get the small rollers but I just started brushing and haven't left the house in a week. I probably would have saved a bunch of time but I probably would have made a big mess too.....had a hard enough time hanging on to my paint bucket while doing advanced yoga on the second floor eaves and soffits!!

Hamilton 09-10-2007 07:52 PM

I saw the one pic with the scaffolding :)

...then I saw the next pic with it gone. :cry:

Stonemeel 09-11-2007 07:00 AM

Scaffolding is still there.....compliments of the stone guys for putting on the scratch coat for the cultured stone.....just wish it was all the way around.

I had outriggers nailed on the corners of the 2nd floor with boards going across to the roof to get all the eaves and soffits.....it was still tough going getting everything masked off on the roof and then my framers ripped those down to put up the corner trim.....they still have to get back up there to put on the siding and I need to find a good caulker too......he will have fun getting up there while hopefully not ruining my shingles!


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