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JP79ST 07-31-2009 12:52 PM

painting exterior door
 
Hello everyone,

I need to paint my front door. Itís only three years old, but it gets several hours per day of hot, direct sunlight. I suppose that is the main reason the finish has worn off. But Iím not sure of the best procedure for painting.

The door looks like it really is wood that has been varnished. But now that itís outer coating is wearing off, I can tell itís not really wood. Iím not sure what kind of material Iíll be painting on, but it feels like hard plastic. Somehow it was painted in a way that made it look like wood. (The door itself feels way to light to be solid wood anyway.)

Now Iíd like to repaint the door. I assume itís difficult to recreate its original wood-grain look. So I am at least considering painting it a solid color to accord with the house trim. Is this the best procedure?

(1) Sand the old finish off the door. (But with what type of sandpaper?)

(2) Apply primer to door. (But what type of primer, and is it really necessary?)

(3) Apply exterior type of paint to door with paintbrush. (But is it impractical to get a smooth, level look by using a paintbrush? Is spray painting better? What about the other side, which would need interior paint: will the look and color match?)

(4) Sealant, varnish or other topcoat required?

Thanks for reading.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...c/IMG_2264.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...c/IMG_2263.jpg

mazzonetv 07-31-2009 04:02 PM

If you are going to paint a solid color than you are on the right track. Sand down the door and clean with TSP or similar cleaning solution. Let dry and prime with a quality exterior primer. Zinsser 1-2-3 has always been a group favorite. Topcoat with a quality exterior latex paint like Ben Moore's Ironclad or Impervex or any other high quality brand. Be sure to paint all six sides. No other topcoat is necessary. As far as being smooth, better quality paints will level off to a beautiful finish and I would not suggest spraying unless you are very comfortable doing so. Good luck!

JP79ST 07-31-2009 10:28 PM

Thanks for your reply. I see that the Ironclad and Zinsser 1-2-3 can be used for both the interior and exterior of the door.

poppameth 08-01-2009 10:53 AM

Looks like a fiberglass door to me. Someone probably used one of those stain kits for it. That stuff is only meant for the inside of the door. As you've noticed, it won't hold up outside at all. You're headed the right direction with painting it. Stained fiberglass just doesn't cut it for long.

bob22 08-01-2009 12:10 PM

I would be very careful about sanding that fiberglas door. Once you've taken off the faux woodgrain embossing it is gone forever. I think you could scrub it with a scrub brush and TSP, rinse well and then paint with no issues. No need to do door edges since no wood is involved. Start early so it has time to dry so the weatherstripping doesn't stick to it when you close the door.

fstwrtr 08-02-2009 08:34 PM

You can easily fix that door by Sanding the flaking gel stain that was applied to the door, using a 100 grit sanding block,
Move the door to a shaded area, sand off the flaking, peeling finish, Priming the door is unnecessary at this point, as the sanding has provided sufficient tooth to the surface. apply two coats of a high quality exterior house paint, first brushing in the groves of the panels, then rolling the field with a 3/8th inch nap roller cover.. back brushing is highly recommended for a satisfactory finish. Door sheens are normally satin,

JP79ST 08-03-2009 07:16 PM

I think I'll sand the door since I'm not worried about maintaining the original faux woodgrain. A solid color will look good if I can get the finish nice and smooth. I suppose back brushing is essential for that?

Thanks everyone.

chrisn 08-04-2009 03:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP79ST (Post 310165)
I think I'll sand the door since I'm not worried about maintaining the original faux woodgrain. A solid color will look good if I can get the finish nice and smooth. I suppose back brushing is essential for that?

Thanks everyone.

Yes,with a quality brush which means one NOT from the big box stores. The name brand ones( Purdy, etc.) there are cheap knock -offs of the real thing.

saggdevil 08-04-2009 08:11 AM

Chris...are you saying the Purdy brush I bought at HD is an imitation???
I could immediately tell a difference vs the brush I had been using, lol. Also I bought a Wooster Sherloc roller frame there...is it a knock-off also?

chrisn 08-04-2009 02:06 PM

The brush, yes, the frame, maybe not.

fstwrtr 08-04-2009 02:33 PM

Purdy Brushes
 
I am certain that if you purchase a purdy Brush and it comes in the traditional yellow jacket it is a genuine Purdy brush reguardless of who carries the line. Purdy does not sell seconds or blems, what you find at HD is the same brush you find in a paint store.

poppameth 08-04-2009 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fstwrtr (Post 310492)
I am certain that if you purchase a purdy Brush and it comes in the traditional yellow jacket it is a genuine Purdy brush reguardless of who carries the line. Purdy does not sell seconds or blems, what you find at HD is the same brush you find in a paint store.

Wrong. HD sells "despeced" Purdy brushes, just like Lowes sells "despeced" Wooster brushes. They are made to a lesser quality specification. I don't think you can even find Lowe's Woosters anywhere but Lowes. I've had several painters tell me they bought Purdy at HD before and now they know why the price was so low. They only buy them at HD once.

fstwrtr 08-04-2009 06:39 PM

The Information you have regarding purdy Brushes is incorrect. as per my phone call to Sherwin Williams.
Purdy Is owned by Sherwin Williams. The same manufacturers guarantee is in place on the brushes sold at the paint stores is in place at the Larger Hardware stores... they are in fact, the same brushes. they come from the same warhouse. case lots are mixed, matched and shuffled to fill orders...

nerd_flanders 08-04-2009 09:43 PM

Hold the phone.

You can paint the first couple of coats and level them off whilst still wet with a mini roller with either a fine sleeve.
this avoids a build up of unsightly brush strokes.
It's called a poor man's spray finish.

fstwrtr 08-04-2009 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nerd_flanders (Post 310678)
Hold the phone.

this avoids a build up of unsightly brush strokes.
.

On a wood grain finished fiberglass door??:huh:


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