DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Painting (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/)
-   -   Painting ceiling, walls, and trim (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/painting-ceiling-walls-trim-172770/)

MsKitty32 02-23-2013 09:58 PM

Painting ceiling, walls, and trim
 
6 Attachment(s)
I need some help with regards to preparing a ceiling, walls, and trim for painting. All have been painted before. There are a couple issues which I have attached pictures for.

1) How do I fix the damage to the corner of this wall? I am pretty sure there isn’t a corner beam (metal bracket looking item) as our house was built in the 1940s.

2) I attempted to strip the woodwork and decided this wasn’t something I was going to tackle since the woodwork is just a plain design and in my opinion not worth stripping. When I repaint this trim I am assuming I will need to sand this down smooth first but will this small stripped section show after painting?

3) From my best guess the woodwork and walls have been painted at least twice. Top coat is latex and bottom coat is who knows – 1940s paint. How do I get rid of this small edge that is where the woodwork and wall meet? Sanding?

4) Can I repair the gouges I made in the drywall next to the trim when I stripped the paint with joint compound?

5) There is a small dip in the wall where the two drywall boards come together. I am assuming the joint wasn’t filled enough thus the dip. Can I fix this with several layers of all-purpose joint compound by working the compound in the dip and feathering it out 12 inches or so?

6) The trim and wall paint is latex…semi-gloss I am assuming from an old paint can that was left. I have ghosting issues in the house but not in this hallway however my plan is to apply BIN to all parts of the ceiling and walls anyway. Do I also need to apply it to the trim or use a different primer?

7) I am planning on having the doors chemically stripped because I want them back to natural. Originally, I thought combining stain and paint would look odd but my mother has done it in her house and it actually pops and I have looked at quite a few pictures online of it. This hallway has LOTS of doors – 6 in fact – so I have my work cut out for me with the staining and $$$ with the paint removal from the doors. I am going to refinish the floor as well.

8) I am trying to decide on a color scheme and was even debating on splitting the wall into two colors using a chair rail molding but do not know if this would be a good addition to a hallway. Lighter on top with a darker shade on bottom. Debating on white for the trim.

A million questions but thanks.

Brushjockey 02-23-2013 10:11 PM

There are a bunch of skills and products that you are going to need to do this..
First- be aware that the 1940's paint probably contains lead. the dust from that is very not good for children. Learn about it. And try and disturb that layer as little as possible.

The corner can be shaped with either a premixed taping compound, or a good quality "spackle " or filler. I would get a gal tub of Plus 3 and some Elmers wood filler- you will need some of each.
Use the plus 3 on bigger open spaces and the Elmers on smaller more critical stuff that needs a stronger fill- like the corner. You will need several sizes of mudding blades- 3", 6" , and 12" . Get good ones.
The crack can be filled with PAINTABLE caulk- ( not 100% silicone!), and you will need a good caulk gun.
You will need to sand smooth or to shape where ever you used the taping compound or filler- a good med/fine sanding sponge is handy.
And you will need to prime those spots after you fix them- a quality primer like Zinsser 123 , Primecoat2, many others are good.

Others will chime in
good luck!

cdaniels 02-23-2013 10:44 PM

1) Joint compound and sandpaper
2) Finish stripping that piece of trim or the whole casing.Yes it will show.
3)Caulk the crack between the wall and woodwork.
4)yes
5)yes
6)you can use it on trim if you need it.
7)Even having a door dipped and stripped it's hard to get it to "stain quality"
8)yes

jsheridan 02-24-2013 04:24 AM

MissKitty, for pics 1 and 2, the outside corners, first take some eight weight paper and smooth them out. Then, as Brushjockey hinted at, overfill them and then shape them with some fine paper according to the contour of the undamaged section.
Pic 3, that little edge after sanding may be barely noticeable. It's an old house you have some latitude for trim imperfections. You might use a little light weight vinyl spackling to feather it out.
Pic 4, as Cdaniels said caulk that door frame. I would take a knife and open it up a bit and knock some of the jaggedness off.
Pic 5 I would spackle the wall to get rid of the divots from prep, sand. Then prime the door frame and spackle, then caulk. You never want to caulk any unprimed wood or patching compounds.
Pic 6, yes, spackle it out.

MsKitty32 02-24-2013 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsheridan (Post 1123513)
MissKitty, for pics 1 and 2, the outside corners, first take some eight weight paper and smooth them out. Then, as Brushjockey hinted at, overfill them and then shape them with some fine paper according to the contour of the undamaged section.

What is eight weight paper? Brushjockey said "can be shaped with either a premixed taping compound, or a good quality "spackle " or filler. I would get a gal tub of Plus 3 and some Elmers wood filler- you will need some of each." I am confused as to what the Plus 3 is...is this the taping compound? I do have some Sheetrock Brand All Purpose Joint Compound (green lid)...will this work? From what I understand Taping Compound is different from the All Purpose that I have though. And am I suppose to be using the Elmers Wood Filler on this corner too?

Pic 3, that little edge after sanding may be barely noticeable. It's an old house you have some latitude for trim imperfections. You might use a little light weight vinyl spackling to feather it out.

Vinyl spackle doesn't shrink as much as regular spackle right? Is this why I should use it here? I didn't know you could use spackle on wood. I am not opposed to stripping the rest of that piece of door frame as cdaniels stated but I really don't want to strip that entire casing.

Pic 4, as Cdaniels said caulk that door frame. I would take a knife and open it up a bit and knock some of the jaggedness off.

I have several cracks between the wall and wood trim in this hallway. I can get some paintable caulk like Brushjockey said. I would probably want to cut a really small opening on the caulk tube tip for this right? And do I use my finger to flatten the caulk after applying or leave it as a bead since I will be painting it?

Pic 5 I would spackle the wall to get rid of the divots from prep, sand. Then prime the door frame and spackle, then caulk. You never want to caulk any unprimed wood or patching compounds.

Should I be priming the wood trim with the BIN too or just the walls and use a different primer on the trim? Is there something comparable to BIN that is easier to use? Only reason I really want to seal the ceiling and walls is due to ghosting issues in other rooms of the house.

Pic 6, yes, spackle it out.

Will my all purpose joint compound work here? I figure I will have to do a couple of layers.


Also, since everything except the ceiling (as far as I can tell) was painted with a semi-gloss latex do I need to scuff up everything before I put on any primer?

Thanks for all the help everyone. Nothing is ever as simple as these little videos I find online telling you how to paint a room!

Brushjockey 02-24-2013 10:50 AM

I would not use lightweight on a corner- you need a little strength. The green lid would work fine-
Id use the larger mud knives to start at the corner and pull back to reform the corner, then let dry and sand to shape.
Probably meant Light weight, not eight weight- I'd still go with the sponge.

On the casing- I would make sure whatever is loose at the edge was scraped off, then blade a coat of the Elmers filler to smooth out, sand, prime. Don't need BIN, just a good quality Acrylic bonding primer like Zinsser 123.

Smooth the caulk ( and force it into the crack) with a damp finger.

A light scuff is always a good idea- makes a smoother finish along with giving the new paint something to grip to-

ToolSeeker 02-24-2013 11:48 AM

I'm a little surprised that nobody suggested putting new corner bead on those outside corners as it seems like that would prevent this from happening again. Since she is already going to be doing patching and filling. First pic looks like there is no bead as does the second.

jsheridan 02-24-2013 12:20 PM

I meant to use lightweight to feather out where she stopped stripping the paint off the door frame, rather than strip the rest of the frame.
On the outside corner I said to take some eighty weight paper and sand the corner down to get any roughness off that would interfere with spackling. I wouldn't use lightweight on the outside corners. Probably the strongest mud for the outsides would be setting compound, over apply and sand to shape with a fine paper.

jsheridan 02-24-2013 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToolSeeker (Post 1123783)
I'm a little surprised that nobody suggested putting new corner bead on those outside corners as it seems like that would prevent this from happening again. Since she is already going to be doing patching and filling. First pic looks like there is no bead as does the second.

That's a lot of work tool, and IMO, not necessary. I agree that it would strengthen the corner, but that damage is from abuse, not everyday wear and tear.

MsKitty32 02-24-2013 12:49 PM

I thought about the corner beam too but would rather fix it with joint compound if that will work. It is def abuse - not sure what previous owners did to it.

Am I using lightweight spackle or wood filler on the casing that I partially stripped? And am I just blending whichever product basically over the spot where I stopped or am I using the product on the entire spot I stripped - meaning covering the entire bare wood that I stripped with whichever product?

So I will use Zinsser 123 as the primer on the trim. Is BIN the best to use for primer on the ceiling and walls due to the ghosting? My only concern is the ease of use of BIN - meaning it isn't easy - ha.

jsheridan 02-24-2013 01:27 PM

You're just using the lightweight on the edge to soften it, feather, not the whole stripped area.
Using BIN for rolling ceilings and walls is not as difficult as using it to brush trim. It still stinks, and it spatters, so wear clothing, long sleeves and gloves, that can get covered and make sure everything is masked well and floors covered. It might also be a good idea to rub some vaseline on your face so the spatter will wipe off easily, or have your husband do it. :laughing:

As to using BIN, you may want to call Zinsser Tech department to ask if they have a product that will work instead of the BIN. They have some new things out now and may have a decent substitute.

MsKitty32 02-24-2013 09:00 PM

I want to be clear about what type of paint I should be using to repaint the ceiling, walls, and trim. The topcoat on all surfaces now is a semi-gloss latex. I will scuff up all surfaces before priming.

Assuming, I use BIN or a Zinsser primer product for the ghosting on the ceiling and walls and Zinsser 123 on the trim is it okay to then go ahead and paint my topcoat with a latex based? I believe I will be using eggshell for at least the wall and am not sure about the trim yet.

cdaniels 02-25-2013 03:09 AM

A latex topcoat will be fine. You don't need a primer for bonding latex to latex as long as it is scuff sanded and there are no stain killing issues.

chrisn 02-25-2013 04:34 AM

Also you will not need BIN for anything

jsheridan 02-25-2013 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1124368)
Also you will not need BIN for anything


What about the ghosting?


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:35 AM.