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Old 06-01-2012, 01:38 AM   #1
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


I mean....really bare drywall...as in NO paper.

A little history....

Our house is of the 1950's vintage....we are in the middle of a 2-story addition....during the winter it was a struggle keeping water out of the existing part of the house where the back of the existing house joins to the addition.....and no roof on yet...

One of the leaks flooded the bathroom....

All is dry now.....the drywall as viewed from the attic looks ok...ceiling and walls are a 2 part system....paper backed drywall (1/2") and then a manually applied layer of plaster over the drywall. In the attic, the paper is lifting up in a few places....but no mold....

BUT...in the bathroom....bubbles....the drywall got wet enough for water to go through and bubble out the paint. When it dried, the bubbles for the most part went away but you can see where they were. We installed a fan and when we examined the piece of ceiling I cut out...the paint peeled off quite nicely leaving just the plaster surface....no paper layer...

So...it's obvious that 'back in the day', they painted the 'bare' walls with lead based paint.

Am I going to get good results if I repaint the ceiling using water based primer and high gloss paint?

Yes...we are peeling of the old paint before we do it....I figure it will take all of about 5 minutes to get it off...and yes, I will wear a mask and treat it all as you would treat any lead based paint.

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Old 06-01-2012, 05:15 AM   #2
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


If the paper came off it would be a pretty rough surface. I cant believe it got that wet and didn't warp though. Usually when rock gets real wet it is pull and replace time.
But if you think it is salvageable, I'd give it a good soaking with Gardz- essentially giving it a protective layer, skim and finish from there.

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Old 06-01-2012, 05:16 AM   #3
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
I mean....really bare drywall...as in NO paper.

A little history....

Our house is of the 1950's vintage....we are in the middle of a 2-story addition....during the winter it was a struggle keeping water out of the existing part of the house where the back of the existing house joins to the addition.....and no roof on yet...

One of the leaks flooded the bathroom....

All is dry now.....the drywall as viewed from the attic looks ok...ceiling and walls are a 2 part system....paper backed drywall (1/2") and then a manually applied layer of plaster over the drywall. In the attic, the paper is lifting up in a few places....but no mold....

BUT...in the bathroom....bubbles....the drywall got wet enough for water to go through and bubble out the paint. When it dried, the bubbles for the most part went away but you can see where they were. We installed a fan and when we examined the piece of ceiling I cut out...the paint peeled off quite nicely leaving just the plaster surface....no paper layer...

So...it's obvious that 'back in the day', they painted the 'bare' walls with lead based paint.

Am I going to get good results if I repaint the ceiling using water based primer and high gloss paint?

Yes...we are peeling of the old paint before we do it....I figure it will take all of about 5 minutes to get it off...and yes, I will wear a mask and treat it all as you would treat any lead based paint.

Just what brings you to this conclusion?
I cannot see it but if it got that wet to peel off the paint, the drywall should probably be replaced ( IMO)
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:59 AM   #4
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


You may be looking at gypsum lathe and a plaster top coat---very common in the 1950s

I will put money on that---treat it as a plaster ceiling---scrape--prime--shim coat where needed--prime the skim coat and paint---
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:37 AM   #5
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


If the "drywall" got as wet as described, I would also pull it down and replace it. It is likely to cause problems later if it has been compromised by so much water absorption.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:17 PM   #6
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
You may be looking at gypsum lathe and a plaster top coat---very common in the 1950s

I will put money on that---treat it as a plaster ceiling---scrape--prime--shim coat where needed--prime the skim coat and paint---
Closest description....the gypsum looks just like drywall sheets....except abou 1/2" thick in 2' wide strips. All my walls are the same...2' wide strips of gypsum with about a 3/8" coat of plaster on top. When you crawl under the house, you see the mess the plaster made on the sub floor when the built the house....

As for lead in the paint...the first coat appears to be oil based paint.
When I bought the house, I had part of the paint tested for lead....so, yea....all the underlying paint in my house is lead based.
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:25 PM   #7
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


Yep, 2' wide confirms it's rock lathe as mike stated. It was treated so it wouldn't absorb moisture when the wet plaster veneer was applied. You might want to poke around and make sure there aren't any punky spots, but it should be restorable.
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Old 06-01-2012, 04:44 PM   #8
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


[quote=ddawg16;933933]Closest description....the gypsum looks just like drywall sheets....except abou 1/2" thick in 2' wide strips. All my walls are the same...2' wide strips of gypsum with about a 3/8" coat of plaster on top. When you crawl under the house, you see the mess the plaster made on the sub floor when the built the house....

As for lead in the paint...the first coat appears to be oil based paint.
When I bought the house, I had part of the paint tested for lead....so, yea....all the underlying paint in my house is lead based.[/quote]


wellll, you did not mention that in the first post
most of my house( at least the ceilings) have the same stuff, you should be ok, but as stated, poke around a little and make sure it is not punky
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Old 06-01-2012, 04:58 PM   #9
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ratherbefishin' View Post
Yep, 2' wide confirms it's rock lathe as mike stated. It was treated so it wouldn't absorb moisture when the wet plaster veneer was applied. You might want to poke around and make sure there aren't any punky spots, but it should be restorable.
During the rain my wife was up in the attic with the shop vac sucking up water...(I was out of town)....we then removed all the insulation and put up a couple of fans to dry it off as quick as possible. On the attic side, some of the paper is lifting but I don't see any mold or crumbling.

I'm thought aobut painting it....but I'm inclined to think that one side needs to 'breath'....

[quote=chrisn;934021]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
Closest description....the gypsum looks just like drywall sheets....except abou 1/2" thick in 2' wide strips. All my walls are the same...2' wide strips of gypsum with about a 3/8" coat of plaster on top. When you crawl under the house, you see the mess the plaster made on the sub floor when the built the house....

As for lead in the paint...the first coat appears to be oil based paint.
When I bought the house, I had part of the paint tested for lead....so, yea....all the underlying paint in my house is lead based.[/quote]


wellll, you did not mention that in the first post
most of my house( at least the ceilings) have the same stuff, you should be ok, but as stated, poke around a little and make sure it is not punky
Sorry bout that.....
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Old 06-01-2012, 04:58 PM   #10
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


Ok....so the next question is....what kind of primer? Drywall primer or will the Killz II be ok?
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:24 PM   #11
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


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Ok....so the next question is....what kind of primer? Drywall primer or will the Killz II be ok?
Neither. You need to use a good acrylic that will handle the alkalinity of any plaster residue. My choice would be Zinsser Bullseye 123. Or you could use an oil primer.
As far as Kilz2, I'll repeat what's already been said here hundreds of times: "the only good Kilz product is the original oil".
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:22 AM   #12
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Painting 'Bare' Drywall?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ratherbefishin' View Post
Neither. You need to use a good acrylic that will handle the alkalinity of any plaster residue. My choice would be Zinsser Bullseye 123. Or you could use an oil primer.
As far as Kilz2, I'll repeat what's already been said here hundreds of times: "the only good Kilz product is the original oil".


which would be over kill( no pun intended) in this situation

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