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Old 07-21-2013, 06:24 PM   #31
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Painted over wallpaper in room


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Originally Posted by Brushjockey View Post
I love Gardz. It solves so many problems.

But it is tricky to work with because it is so thin. I use a 3/8 knapp cover ( I almost always use a 1/2 inch for everything else) and always start with an upstroke with very little pressure. Coat it lightly, then do it again if you want more penetration, rather than come on with a heavy load.

I will sometimes add about 1/4 volume of the paint- it usually isn't enough to make the Gardz ineffective, gives a little color to see where I am, and thickens it up just a bit.

Gardz is more of a vapor barrier/ sealer than it is about adhesion. And this is how you are using it-

Also because I use it ( and other stuff that stinks ) so much, I do buy an additive that helps with that. Not worth it for DIY, but the pros that roll with it often might want to google "Kabosh" ..

I did use a 3/8 knapp roller cover but from what I'm being told on here I'm sure I put on too heavy a coat. I can't very well undo it so I'm hoping it will work out. It's great to get advice from experienced pros and I appreciate all the wonderful tips. Some things just cant be learned from reading the back of the paint can. I have some extra Benjamin Moore flat latex paint that I used in my bedroom which is 2 shades lighter than the paint I will be using in the bathroom. Could I mix that in with the Gardz as my final primer coat to make it easier to work with? I have a half gallon of the bedroom paint left. It would be nice to use it up. The bedroom paint color is Quiet Moments and the bathroom will be Mount St. Anne.

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Old 07-21-2013, 08:27 PM   #32
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There should be no problem with you doing a heavy coat other than the struggle to put it on, and perhaps drips and sags. Sounds like you are going to knock off the "nubs", skim, sand and reprime, right?
good plan.
Like I said, add about 1paint to 3 Gardz and you should be fine, particularly for a coat to seal the skim.

One other little tip- for this prime coat- roll first- and fairly close to edges- and let dry ( about a hour) and then brush the edges. The brush work will be much easier that way.
Only the final coat is it important to brush first , then roll close to cover the brush and make as uniform as possible.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #33
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:34 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Brushjockey View Post
There should be no problem with you doing a heavy coat other than the struggle to put it on, and perhaps drips and sags. Sounds like you are going to knock off the "nubs", skim, sand and reprime, right?
good plan.
Like I said, add about 1paint to 3 Gardz and you should be fine, particularly for a coat to seal the skim.

One other little tip- for this prime coat- roll first- and fairly close to edges- and let dry ( about a hour) and then brush the edges. The brush work will be much easier that way.
Only the final coat is it important to brush first , then roll close to cover the brush and make as uniform as possible.
Will do! I'm curious tho.....why roll first and let dry before brushing the edges on the prime coat?
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:37 PM   #35
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The sealed surface ( tight roll) will be much less drag on the brush. once you do it you will know what I mean.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brushjockey
The sealed surface ( tight roll) will be much less drag on the brush. once you do it you will know what I mean.
He's right. That's the way to go on the first coat.
Improves overall uniformity of the system also.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:52 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Brushjockey View Post
The sealed surface ( tight roll) will be much less drag on the brush. once you do it you will know what I mean.
Ahhhh, makes sense now. I'm sure my prime coat will be much easier...mixing a little paint should a big difference! Plus can't wait to try the brush/roller application tips. Thanks again for your invaluable help. You rock!!
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:48 PM   #38
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:56 PM   #39
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He's right. That's the way to go on the first coat.
Improves overall uniformity of the system also.
Thanks for your input, painting technique is important. I painted my bedroom 2 wks ago and I was all over the place. I had no idea where to start so I started in the middle of the wall with a roller and did the trim last. Which is the wrong thing to do of course. I do not want to do something twice, I would rather do it right the first time even if it takes more time. So I may ask some incredibly stupid questions during this learning experience...Thats how I roll!
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:27 PM   #40
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I had no idea where to start so I started in the middle of the wall with a roller
Yeah - what you see on those DIY shows on the DIY channel - don't do that. The painting you see on a show like Holmes is OK. The painting you see on most of those other shows is absolutely horrendous. It just doesn't matter because the problems never show up on the TV cameras.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #41
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More advice needed! I've finished painting the bathroom. It turned out really good except for one wall. I'm calling it the wall from hell. After my 3rd coat of Ben Moore Aura Bath and Spa, its still blotchy and streaky. I'm not sure if I didn't sand the joint compound enough or if it needs another coat of primer. I used Gardz mixed with paint as the primer. It's porous in spots and it seems to soak up the paint. The left side of the wall is fine it's the right side thats blotchy. I did alot of repairs and sanding in that area. I'm not sure how to proceed. I have pics that I took on my iphone but not sure how to post them. Please help!

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Old 08-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #42
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Forgot to add.....I used a 3/8 napp roller to apply. I'm going to have to go buy another gallon of Aura tomorrow. . I'm sure my application technique isn't the best....Aura dries incredibly fast and I have problems keeping a wet edge.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:54 PM   #43
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Are you sure it's not a difference in texture that's showing? The patched area may have less of a "roller stipple" than the other areas.After primer and three coats of paint, flashing should not be an issue,but then again neither should the roller stipple.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:14 AM   #44
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what Charlie said and switch to a1/2 inch sleeve
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:54 AM   #45
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Are you sure it's not a difference in texture that's showing? The patched area may have less of a "roller stipple" than the other areas.After primer and three coats of paint, flashing should not be an issue,but then again neither should the roller stipple.
That could be it. The wall feels rough as well. The bathroom is two rooms with a sink vanity area that is open off of the bedroom and a seperate room to the left with the toilet and bath. The wall in question is to the right in the vanity/sink area and a focal point as you enter the bedroom. The light fixtures are mounted on the back wall in the vanity area and highlights the blotchy area. I think the other walls are probably the same, however you don't really see the imperfections due to the lighting. I just want to fix that one wall. I'm thinking i possibly sanded the Gardz too much in some areas?? Should I prime that wall again before I paint? It would be nice to have a uniform texture to work with. If so should I use Gardz or would another primer be better for my situation?

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