Yeah the Behr/CR thing is a mystery wrapped in an enigma...
Suffice to say that all things being perfect, most Behr products can
function
It takes a long time and more product and more hassles to get there, and they never, ever, look as good as premium products, but they can actually work
Any deviation or less than perfect conditions create problems immediately
I'm sure the laboratory testing at CR don't take many real world factors into play
They also are not tested by painters, they are tested by lab techs
This means important painting criteria are left out, and others that aren't important are emphasized...
They also have never had to tell a customer that stained their deck 3 years ago with a now pealing Behr goo that won't strip/scrape/sand off that their best option is to re-deck
...but that's another thread...
BM and C's stains are fine...I've used them both
Professionally I tend to spec C for "clear" and "semi", Sikkens for "solid" (looks like paint)
I'd use BM if the customer preferred, or if it was a supply issue
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So yearly with a power washer. I read that can damage a paint job and that you're better off using a long scrub brush and a regular hose.
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Yearly...well that depends on your specific situation
Could be more/less
I'd say yearly min. anyway...even if it looks OK
A PW can damage the siding if not done right...heck I've demo'd swing sets with one before (on purpose
)
The avg. H/O is probably better off with a hose and brush
It just that it looks too much like work, and not as fun as spraying with a machine
Most wait until long after mold/mildew is a problem and the brush.hose is simply not enough
If done regularly, and before m/m becomes an issue, a brush and hose is fine and much safer than PWing
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What's a good mildecide besides bleach? My town doesn't have public sewage (we all have septic tanks), and I don't want to adversely affect my leach field.
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A JOMAX/bleach/water mix is excellent
The amount of bleach in the mix is 1/1000 of what you would pour directly into your water supply if you were having a bacteria issue (first try, second would be more)
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...stripping down all the shingles...and putting up brand new shingles
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If your house is a candidate for a full strip, this may be an option
The shingles are not easy to strip paint off of...it will be time consuming and messy
It may be close to the cost for re-shingling (+/-) to properly do this
Of course, the DIY aspect of cost savings enters in here, with what you are comfortable doing yourself
But I have looked at shingled house that needed a complete strip, that it was cost effective to re-shingle
It depends on many factors
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(white pine, so I can get that lovely grey patina you see on houses at the ocean). But — I am concerned that the house's northern exposure will just make it look wet and moldy.
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Welcome to my world
It could get mold (you have a mold factory over there after all)
More likely it would turn black on the tips of the shingles
Regular PWing helps
Or, as some around here do, a clear sealer (eh...not sure it's worth it) or bleaching oil or hub oil (nasty but effective)
Most leave them untreated
As per the house, just checking to see if it might be a "wet house" as that could make a difference...you don't have a likely candidate for one of those though
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