Paint or Stain 1983 cedar shakes in great shape?
My house was built in 1983, custom for a pretty rich woman who used to own all the land/houses around me. We have cedar shakes/shingles siding. I would like to paint my house and keep up with the maintenence. I keep in contact with this now senior woman who owned the house before and she loves to be a resource for any/all questions about the home. She said they used a mixed oil based acrylic stain. The shingles with the exception of maybe 20 are in great shape but are drying out. I will replace the curling ones which are part of the 20. We live in NorthEast New England in close proximity to the ocean (Only a few miles).
Should I stick with the stain or go with a lifetime latex? Note: there doesn't seem to be any moisture issues with the shingles or behind from sections I've looked at.
Should I go with a lifetime Sherwin Williams paint. Reason being, my friend works for them and has a 40% off all the time. If I wait until April, employee appreciation day, we'll get 50% off. He looked at the house and shingles and said they're in good shape and just to paint it and be done with it.
I will power wash the house and there's no mold. However, do I need to prime first?
Sherwin Williams Woodscapes solid stain is pretty amazing stuff. I have heard good things about the Ben Moore equivalent as well. You can get it tinted to any color. It comes in both oil and waterbased. I actually liked the acrylic solid stain better than the oil. You can apply it over your existing shakes or new ones.
A solid stain is going to show the texture of the shakes more than paint which is nice I think.
If you switch to a paint and given you have an oil finish you should probably think about transitioning with a primer. Alkyd primers are the great equalizers and something like Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Alkydwould be my choice. However, a nice high bond waterbased primer would work well too. You can then put just about anything on top of it. Again, I would go with two coats of an acrylic product.
So you're saying if I go with a Solid latex stain, I don't need to prime over my existing? Only If I switch to an actual Paint but not a Solid latex stain, I would need to prime?
You suggest you have an nice antique home. With mostly intact cedar shakes.
The Woodscapes product will go over what is you your shakes nice without primer.
If you switch to paint, and if you were my client owning an antique home, I would near insist you prime before painting.
Now then, with whatever you plan to apply you must prep. Neither solid stain, nor primer, nor paint will stick long to surfaces to which they cannot adhere.
By the way, it sounds like the old lady counseling you is worth listenting to? They are not all crazy old bats.
If she thinks oil based solid stain will work out best? Consider the counsel. I think acrylics will hold color better and longer. Can you still buy oil based solid stain where you are?
You basically own a boat with a foundation. You are in a severe marine environment, evidenced by the fact you are replacing shingles installed in 1983. A solid-color acrylic stain is your best option. Be sure the paint you use is a tannin-blocking product. Shakes have more places for water to enter and leach tannins onto the surface.
If you think a primer is in order, buy from the same manufacturer where you buy the finish. A high-quality, tannin-blocking 100% Acrylic will perform better with the wood and acrylic finish as they all expand and contract equally. Oils become very hard and brittle in a short time and may lead to premature failure.
We have had good success withh Cabot 1800 Series Solid Color Stain
i disagree fellas. i do believe in acrylic solid stains, but if you are in an area of intense moisture near the ocean- USE SOLID COLOR ALKYD STAIN. oil based stains when brushed into shakes penetrate deeply and help ensure that the moisture wont pop off the coating. in an extremely moist climate you need to look at these shakes almost like a deck. oil will undoubtedly withstand the moisture far longer than an acrylic, the downside is that if you get blasted with UV rays the oil will chalk and fade in color quickly. Also, both products will eventually fail- when the acrylic fails on shakes it is a peeling nightmare. when the oil fails it just fades and flakes- much easier to re-prep and restain that layers of peeling- especially on shake
Curling shakes is not always a sign of paint failure, especially if it's only a few. Improper installation can cause shakes to curl. On a large field of shakes it's not hard to imagine that a few were improperly set or fastened.
The single largest contributor to long term coating success on shakes is if they were treated prior to install.
If the current coating was so successful, why change? It obviously weathers well and stands up in your environment, its proven itself. My advice would be to stick with what works, regardless of what discount may be available. To switch to an unknown, when you have a successful known, to save a few bucks, is penny wise and pound foolish. Bad move.
Oil is superior from a penetration standpoint, especially in warm/hot temps. However, the shakes are currently coated so that point is moot.
If you have large scale coating failure on shakes under a proper maintenance schedule, the problem is usually coming from the backside and moisture escaping from inside. This obviously isn't a problem for you.
Give the surface a good washing with a mix of Trisodium Phosphate and bleach to kill any mildew and etch the surface, to address Sdsester's concern about bonding.
Make sure any fastener holes and splits/openings are thoroughly filled. Many large failures start out as tiny openings and an inadequate mainentance routine.
If there is no major moisture transfer from the inside out and no moisture is allowed entry through the front, and the current surface is properly etched for bonding, and regular maintenance is exercised, how the paint fails in the long term is not an issue for concern.
You can't properly develop a plan for going forward without addressing how what has been done in the past has or hasn't worked. It sounds like what was done in the past has worked fairly well, don't reinvent the wheel.
Geez, now my head is getting filled. So many different people choose different ways to approach painting or staining a house. If I had the money, I'd get a company to do the ceremic based Rhino Shield Paint with lifetime guarantee and be done with it. But, let's be realistic, most of us don't.
I don't have any paint/stain pealing now, just a couple cracked shingles that dried out and a couple shingles with the ends curling. I have 2 or 3 boxes of new cedar shingles that someone gave to me that I'll use to replace some.
From what I understand, assuming that moisture trapped behind the shingles isn't an issue and it doesn't seem to be from what I've inspected that I have the option to go with the Sherwin Williams Duration paint in the chance that I might get lucky and not have to touch again for 10-15 or 30 years.
I go with the SW Woodscapes Siding Stains, either latex or polyurethane semi-transparent and have to do it every 5 years. I don't mind keeping up with it every 5 years as long as nothing happens until 5+ years. If I go with either of the stains, I don't need to prime which saves some time and money.
I don't know....I'm confused now....My head hurts..
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