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Old 05-21-2014, 01:06 PM   #46
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


- Along those lines, any tips on spraying the doors (I have 5 to do - 6 if I go ahead and paint my workshop door).? Outside vs. inside, horizontal vs. vertical? I saw a video where someone tacked a paint stirrer to the top of the doors so they could lean it against a wall and turn it to spray each side. But, that would mean doing it indoors, and with plastic on the walls... Maybe it's time to just clean out the garage, lol... I have also seen some door stands that hold 2 doors together at the hinges, but don't see that they are sold locally. Finally, I saw someone attach the doors together with a board at the top.

- Do you backroll the doors?

- Also, the only tip I have is a 415 that came with the sprayer, but I've read that using a 210 or 310 tip is best. Is it worth it to invest in a different tip? With the latex paint I have, it says to use .015 tip or larger - I can't find a 215 or 315 though.

- Finally, I was not able to remove the lines/tails on the outside of my spray pattern on my last wall coat, even with the pressure turned all the way up. Is it possible that my tip is already getting worn? Or, would thinning the paint a little help? I have applied about 15 gallons of paint/primer with this tip now.


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Old 05-21-2014, 11:25 PM   #47
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


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- Finally, I was not able to remove the lines/tails on the outside of my spray pattern on my last wall coat, even with the pressure turned all the way up. Is it possible that my tip is already getting worn? Or, would thinning the paint a little help? I have applied about 15 gallons of paint/primer with this tip now.
So, this is really the main question I have right now, since I was planning to spray the last of my walls tomorrow (Thursday). I'm just wondering if it's possible that thinning out the paint a little might help with the tails. I'm assuming not, and my tip must be worn out already (maybe it was a cheap tip that came with the sprayer?). I'm thinking of getting a 515 for the rest of the walls (I have another 19x16 room that I haven't started on yet), and a 313 for the trim (both Graco Rac IV just b/c that's what I can find locally).

Thoughts? (and, thanks in advance as usual)
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:02 AM   #48
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


Thinning the paint a little might help with the tailing, but that's not the best solution IMO. I would try a new tip first. Tips do wear out fast, I only get 20-40 gallons of ideal fan with the Rac 5's.

It shouldn't matter too much on the walls if your back rolling, but could be a problem doing the doors. You'll need a good even fan to spray them evenly.

You might try a using a 4 or 513 instead of a 15. It's a little easier for smaller machines to break up the paint through a smaller tip. A 13 is going to be easier to use on the doors anyway and would work for walls, just be a little slower.

If you do thin, don't thin much. Maybe 1/2 cup per gallon. Thinning too much can decrease coverage with darker colors.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:02 AM   #49
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


Would you say that it would have been easier/faster if you had used the regular old roller method? What about comparing it to a power roller?
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:17 AM   #50
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Thanks Jmayspaint. The reason I was going to go with the 515 is b/c my paint says to use a 15 or larger tip. Do you think the 413 or 513 would work ok though? I guess I could always thin a little if not.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:34 AM   #51
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Would you say that it would have been easier/faster if you had used the regular old roller method? What about comparing it to a power roller?
It may have been faster in the end, since this was my first time using an airless. But, I think I have ended up with better results than if I rolled, and I believe it was easier. Since this was new construction, I didn't have a ton of things to mask off. Applying the primer and ceiling paint went amazingly fast (and easy) since I didn't have to worry about where I sprayed really. It started to get a little harder when I started spraying color on the walls. I expect that spraying the trim and doors will give better end results, too (plus a little easier maybe - I've brushed/rolled doors before, and didn't enjoy it).

I will say this, though. There was a point when I was doing my ceilings and my airless clogged up on me. At the time, I couldn't get it working again (I now know how to), so I switched to a roller to do the ceilings in the bathroom. I was cursing the roller the whole time. The airless had me spoiled at that point.

Honestly, the hardest thing about using the airless is the cleaning, but I've got the hang of it now. If I had used the same color throughout, it would have been much easier (less cleaning), but we picked 3 different wall colors, plus the primer, and ceiling. So, I will have to do a 'real' cleaning 5 times.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:02 AM   #52
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


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Thanks Jmayspaint. The reason I was going to go with the 515 is b/c my paint says to use a 15 or larger tip. Do you think the 413 or 513 would work ok though? I guess I could always thin a little if not.

Yeah, 15 is the recommended size for a lot of paints. It won't hurt anything to go a little smaller (13). I think the recommended sizes are mainly to encourage applying a thick enough coat. The manufactures want you to put enough paint on for it to perform well and a 15 tip facilitates that better.

It's quite common for pros to use smaller than the recommended size for better control, and many paints that recommend using a 15 will have a caveat in the specs saying a smaller tip may be used for 'fine finishing'.

A 15 is the maximum tip size for many smaller sprayers and sometimes they just aren't powerful enough to make a perfect fan with a 15 if the tip is even a little worn out.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:31 AM   #53
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One more thing you might do while spraying the walls is spray a little of the wall paint out into a bucket for touch up. Do this carefully, at low pressure, maybe while your cleaning the pump.

Being forced through the tip changes the paint slightly. It's called tip shear, and can make the sheen of sprayed paint slightly different than paint that hasn't been forced through the tip. So you will get better touch ups by using paint that went through the sprayer also.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:49 AM   #54
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


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One more thing you might do while spraying the walls is spray a little of the wall paint out into a bucket for touch up. Do this carefully, at low pressure, maybe while your cleaning the pump.

Being forced through the tip changes the paint slightly. It's called tip shear, and can make the sheen of sprayed paint slightly different than paint that hasn't been forced through the tip. So you will get better touch ups by using paint that went through the sprayer also.
Thanks for the tip! (No pun intended - well, maybe a little). I haven't heard of doing this before, good to know.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:51 AM   #55
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So I bought the Graco Rac IV 413 tip, and... Wow! The difference is night and day. I wish I had been using this tip from the start. I don't know if it's the fan width, orifice size, or if it's just a better quality tip, but it's just much easier for me to use. I'm having much less overspray, and the pattern is perfect. Oh, and I seem to be using less paint, too.
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Old 05-25-2014, 07:35 AM   #56
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


The advances in spray tips have made a huge difference in spraying in just the last few years.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:27 AM   #57
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


Here are a few more photos:

Bathroom:



Kitchenette - I have a tile backsplash under the microwave and above the sink (not pictured, but off to the left) yet to install:



Kitchenette (close up) - I plan to put some trim on the sides to cover up the gap, and build in small wine racks above the cabinets:



I tacked paint stirrers to the top of my doors and painted them under my deck. If there is ever a 'next time', I will try to do this inside, as I picked approximately 1,458 bugs off of the doors as they were drying:



When I moved them inside, I used the paint stirrers to hold each door off of the other:



My workshop became a huge holding area for doors, casing, and baseboard:


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Old 07-22-2014, 11:33 PM   #58
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


Well, life has been busy and here I am almost 2 months later and I'm just now caulking my trim (to be fair, I lost almost a month with my kids being sick and work being crazy).

Anyway, I have installed the flooring and most of the doors, trim, and baseboard. I took Jmayspaint's advice and picked up the Sashco Exact Color caulk, and was planning to mix it in the wall color to caulk around the outside of the doors and baseboard.

However, I am wondering if I should just mix it in the trim color instead. It seems a little silly to mix it to almost a pure white, but since I have 4 different wall colors, I am going to be potentially wasting a lot of the mixed colors. Also, I could then use the same caulk for the corners/joints in the base and trim (and potentially not have to repaint those areas).

Any opinions (Jmayspaint or others)? Is it just wasteful to mix this expensive caulk to a white color? I mean, most caulk is already white, but it discolors eventually if left unpainted. Would the small amount of paint mixed to the white trim color keep it from discoloring? Is there any other reason that I would want to mix the wall color instead of the trim color?
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:27 AM   #59
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For the most part, caulk doesn't actually 'change color'. What happens is when it's left unpainted, dirt and grime accumulates on the surface over time giving once white caulk a yellowish tint. Unpainted caulk (apart from some silicones) doesn't have a slick/dense enough film to resist dust particles like paint does, and eventually these dust particles become imbedded in the caulk itself making it appear to change color.

Since the mixed caulks actually have paint as part of the film, they are more resistant to accumulating dirt. I have used the Sasco Exactcolor and liked it, but I mainly use the Red Devil Create a Color, which requires a special machine to mix. The Create a Color has held up really well for me over the years, and I haven't noticed any apparent 'color change' even when mixed in whites.

If you don't plan to re coat the trim, Its definitely worth it to mix a tube in white for the inside cracks of the trim. The only drawback to using it at the wall joint is the way it can look. To me, it makes the line at the trim look less sharp. It looks like the trim is 'blown out' on the walls a little. It can look ok either way, I just prefer to see the wall color slightly up on the trim rather than vice versa.

The Exactcolor is expensive I know, and if you have several colors there will likely be a lot of waste. The Exactcolor gets its consistency from a catalyst, and once its mixed it goes bad in a few weeks.

In a smaller room, or for an accent wall you may find it more practical to use the trim color caulk and touch up the cut lines if you wanted to, rather than waste a whole $10+ tube.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:29 AM   #60
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Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)


Thanks as always Jmayspaint! I think I'm going to mix the white and try it out on my office and see how it looks (most of the baseboard will be covered by desk/furniture anyway).

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