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ToHellWithUGA 04-18-2014 10:46 AM

Paint Plan for Basement (new construction)
I am slowly finishing up the rest of the drywall in my basement, and have started thinking about my plans for painting. I am currently finishing an office (13.5x10.5 w/ soffits), bedroom (10.5x12 w/ soffits, plus closet), kitchenette (7.5x12 plus landing area), and full bath (~7x8 plus linen closet(s)) - combo home theater / game room will be later - I also have a workshop, but not sure to what degree it will be finished yet.

I have already done: HVAC, electrical rough-in (many circuits already active, as I needed power/lights), and plumbing (new water heater, bath rough-in, kitchen is complete). I have installed all drywall and backerboard around tub. I am about half way complete with finishing the drywall.

I have painted individual rooms in the past, but have never done a paint job as big as this. I have been doing a lot of reading, and have come up with the following plan (copied and modified from a plan I found on another board):

I will be using Olympic One Paint/Primer in one (I know it's not the greatest, but after rebates and coupon it was $15/gallon, and was rated a 'best buy' from a couple places). Also, I have a Ryobi airless sprayer that I plan to use for the first time (RAP200).

After I finish the drywall (may roll a skim coat everywhere, haven't decided):

1. Broom drywall/corners
2. Spray primer - walls and ceiling
3. Sand walls/ceiling
4. Spray first coat of color on walls
- Kitchen and Landing Area - Elegant Evening (Satin)
- Bathroom (walls and ceiling) - Silver Dollar or Camel (Satin)
- Office - Somber Sky (Satin)
- Bedroom and Closets - Silver Dollar or Camel (Satin)
* Do I need to mask the ceiling, or just overspray, sand, and paint later? Some of my colors are pretty dark (especially the kitchen).
5. Spray first coat of ceiling white
- Delicate White (Ceiling/Flat)
* Do I need to mask the walls, or just overspray, sand, and cut in later?
6. Install trim and doors
* Should I prime and paint the doors before installing?
7. Fill trim
8. Prime trim
9. Sand trim and check for imperfections.
10. Spray first finish coat on trim
- Delicate White (Semi-Gloss)
* Do I need to mask the walls, or just overspray, sand/scuff, and cut in later?
11. Scuff and light trim, check for imperfections.
12. Caulk baseboard/trim.
13. Spray finish coat on trim.
14. Finish ceilings
15. Brush/Roll finish coat(s) on walls (probably, although I could spray instead)
- Mask off trim, windows, doors, etc.
- Cut in ceiling by hand


Any thoughts / opinions on the plan? I had originally planned to put in trim/doors last, so that I wouldn't have to worry about messing up the trim, and I also thought it would be easier to do the flooring (laminate and tile) before setting the doors and baseboard. But, after reading, it sounds like I should go ahead and install the trim so that I can spray it in place, and then just tape/cut in the walls.

Thanks in advance!

Jmayspaint 04-18-2014 02:58 PM

Your method is a little scattered. If this is your first attempt at using an airless, this is a rather complex project to get started on.

I can see that you are trying to avoid masking at the wall/ceiling line. That's not a bad idea, but for a beginner it might not be the best idea. Over spraying either way and having to go back and fix it, perhaps multiple coats, can end up taking longer than just masking.

Here is a possible variation on your method that would be a little simpler.

1. Spray primer all walls,ceilings, trim. You could use a multi purpose primer and do it all the same or spray a wood primer on the trim first then a drywall primer on the walls, over spraying onto both surfaces. As long as your wood primer goes on first it won't matter if the other primer gets on it as long as they are both water base.

2. Sand all surfaces and prep trim.

3. Spray trim all finish coats. Let it dry a couple days and mask off with delicate surface tape.

4. Spray and back roll all coats on walls not worrying about over spraying the ceiling. Let dry a couple days and drape walls with plastic.

5. Sand overspray and spray two finish coats on ceilings.

Remove tape/plastic and your done.

There are lots of different ways to do a new house and this is just one. Your way would work, its just more complicated.

ToHellWithUGA 04-18-2014 09:48 PM

Thanks for the reply, Jmayspaint. Your suggestion is definitely shorter than mine.

I guess one of the things I was trying to avoid was overspray onto the ceiling, since the walls will be Satin and the ceiling flat. Also, some of the walls are very dark, with almost white ceilings. So, you don't think there would be any issues with either of those?

Also, in your method, when would I caulk the baseboard/trim? Would you do that as part of your step #2 trim prep?

Finally, since I am doing all the work and could install trim/doors in any order (before/after certain painting steps), would you still go ahead and install everything before starting any paint steps?

Jmayspaint 04-19-2014 08:23 AM

Over spraying the ceiling is not ideal. Ceilings can be tricky to mask, but it can be done. Pros often use the shielding method when spraying walls to keep overspray off the ceilings, but that's probably not feasible for a novice. You may find that spraying wall finish is more trouble than its worth.

I actually prefer to spray primer and one finish coat on all the trim before it goes up, with the exception of pre-hung doors. With doors I will brush finish on as much of the trim/casing that is accessible without taking them apart. The goal being to have a finished trim edge going up next to your finished walls (assuming you have also one coat finished walls before trim).

After trim instillation on partially finished walls; caulk and fill all trim, remove doors to be sprayed separately (in the garage or something), then hand paint the final finish coat on all the trim except the baseboard.

Then you cut in and roll the final coat on the walls and do baseboard last.

One trick to help ease the final cutting in to the trim is to use custom color calk for caulking the cracks between trim and walls.

I have used this product mixed in the wall color so you aren't having to cut a perfect line over white caulk.

This is a whole different method than spraying trim in place. I feel its easier, but you don't get a perfect sprayed finish on your trim. Although with the first finish coat sprayed, the final coat goes on smoother than if it was all brushed.

ToHellWithUGA 04-21-2014 11:11 AM

Thanks again, Jmayspaint. A couple of quick questions/comments:

- In your last post, it sounds like I would be cutting in the baseboard trim twice: once when I did the final coat on the walls, and once when I did the final coat on the baseboard, is that correct? Or, are you saying that I should wait until after my second finish coat on the walls to even install the baseboard? Then, I would just be cutting in once - the baseboard to the wall (although, cutting in the wall to the baseboard has always worked better for me before, but maybe the colored caulk would make it easier).

- I have primed and painted the trim before installing before, although I used a brush (never had an airless until now). But then I would end up with visible places in the trim where I had nail holes / miters / etc. - at least that's what I remember. So, I thought that spraying in place would give a better end result, and might take less time. But, again, I've never used an airless, so I might change my tune after I start using it.

- Also, it sounds like you are saying to install the trim after doing the first coat of wall color - this is basically what I said I was going to do originally (except that I mention spraying the first finish coat on the ceiling in between first wall coat and trim installation). Just trying to make sure that I am understanding correctly.

ToHellWithUGA 04-21-2014 01:27 PM

Also, about primer: I estimate that I have about 1400 sq. ft. of drywall to prime, plus 6 doors, maybe 150 linear feet of baseboard, and one large window to prime. I have 2 unopened gallons of Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 primer and 1 gallon of Behr AIO primer/sealer. In addition, I have 4 gallons of mistint (gray) Zinsser Bulls Eye Water-Base Primer (not the 1-2-3 stuff) - link. What of this can/should I use for the drywall and/or trim? Should I just bite the bullet and buy some specific drywall primer?

I will post our colors as soon as the system lets me post links (says I can't until I have 5 posts, but I'm already there, and it is not letting me post them still).

ToHellWithUGA 04-21-2014 01:30 PM

Here are the colors we plan to use at this point. The dark blue (Elegant Evening) is kitchen walls, lighter blue (Somber Sky) is office walls, one of the tans (Camel or Silver Dollar) is bath/bedroom/closets, and the white (Delicate White) is ceiling/trim. I'm just posting this to give an idea of the colors that might be oversprayed over each other (in case I end up spraying). The darker brown (Oregon Trail) is a color that I may use on an old solid wood door to the office, haven't decided yet (will probably end up staining instead of painting though, depending on how it looks after I clean it up).

ToolSeeker 04-21-2014 05:20 PM

I would not recommend the Olympic One paint. I just used it on a job (owner had already bought it) was a little dark over a lite beige and still took 3 coats. It just was not a very good paint. I will not recommend another brand so you won't feel I'm just pushing another brand of paint.

ToHellWithUGA 04-22-2014 09:46 AM

Thanks, ToolSeeker. At $15/gallon, I figured it was worth a shot. But, if another sale comes out on a paint with initials SW or BM before I am ready to paint, I will probably switch. I guess I could always go in and see what they would do for me (would be buying 8+ gallons of paint plus 0-5 gallons of primer, if I decide I can't/shouldn't use what I already have).

ToHellWithUGA 04-22-2014 03:23 PM

ToolSeeker, feel free to PM me with your paint recommendations if you want (I tried to PM you, but apparently I can't do that until I have 15 posts). I have access to a SW contractor discount if they are your recommended brand, but I'm not sure how much the discount is exactly (I missed the 40% off sale recently). Would something like ProMar 200 work, or would you recommend one of the higher paints (Duration/Cashmere/SuperPaint)?

Hopefully this is ok to post...

Gymschu 04-22-2014 08:56 PM

If you're on a budget, you can use Promar 400 or Promar 200 or even some of the SW Building Maintenance paints. I like SuperPaint or Cashmere from SW. Both are solid paints. With coupons or a sale, you should be able to get either for around $30 per gallon.

mikegp 04-23-2014 09:54 AM

What I do is prime and paint before installing flooring or putting up any molding/trim. Paint molding trim separately then install and caulk. If you wipe off the caulk with a wet rag it won't affect the paint. This way you're not worried about taping/cutting. If you ever considered crown molding then you won't even have to cut the ceiling.

Also, I was going to use a sprayer on my basement until I read all the issues you can have. Ended up using a power roller and made pretty quick work of a large area.

ToHellWithUGA 04-23-2014 10:03 AM

Thanks, mikegp. That is basically how I have always done it in the past, too. I just thought I would try to use the sprayer since I had it. Actually, the Ryobi RAP200 that I have has a power roller, too, so that is an option. It still seems like priming everything would be easier with the sprayer (and maybe the ceiling, and first finish coat of the uninstalled trim).

It does seem like you would still want to do a full finish coat after the trim was installed though (which would mean cutting in). Otherwise, wouldn't you just be spot-finishing the nail holes / etc., and risk flashing?

ToolSeeker 04-23-2014 04:38 PM

Did you receive the PM I sent.

ToHellWithUGA 04-23-2014 04:44 PM


Originally Posted by ToolSeeker (Post 1341262)
Did you receive the PM I sent.

Hmm, nope. Guess I can't receive PMs for a while, either (it said 15 posts, which I have now, so not sure why it didn't go through).

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