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electro 10-24-2008 10:32 AM

Paint on exterior fascia cracking after a couple of years .
I have painted the fascia a few times in the past 13 years we had this house . I get a 20 year paint that ends up lasting a couple of years . I sand the rough spots smooth and Spackle the cracks , but at the seams and corners I soon get horizontal cracks at the nails and seams . It gets plenty of sun and hot , humid south Louisiana weather .
How can I eliminate this problem for a lasting paint job ?

Matthewt1970 10-24-2008 12:05 PM

Is it cracking where you spackled? Are the cracks in the paint down to the bare wood?

electro 10-24-2008 12:58 PM

No , anywhere they have nail holes or at joints . it starts to crack and gets worse over time What I painted last year is starting . I was thinking of vinyl siding , but besides the cost , they really don't have a color I like .

electro 10-24-2008 01:08 PM

I caught the second part of your question after I posted .
Yes , I can flake off the paint , in one of the bad spots , with a knife and see bare wood .

Matthewt1970 10-24-2008 01:13 PM

Don't spackle cracks. Spackle will not flex enough in cracks. You should spackle holes, and caulk cracks. Also, are you priming the bare wood after you scrape or just painting it? All bare wood should be primed with a good quality oil based primer. Also prime any area you plan to spackle first. Then prime the spackle.

electro 10-24-2008 01:40 PM

I do use caulking in the small cracks . I don't use an " oil based primer" , just a enamel exterior primer , because my house is enamel ( or latex , I just ask for good water based exterior paint )
Do they have oil based primers that can be covered with enamel paint ?

Matthewt1970 10-24-2008 04:23 PM

I think that may be part of your problem. Latex primer is not very good for bare wood. It doesn't block the bleeding from the wood very well and doesn't adhere all that good. Oil based primer can be topcoated with anything you wish. All you need to do is primer the bare wood or any area that might be suspect for a topcoat to stick well like a high glossy surface or a chalky surface.

electro 10-24-2008 07:23 PM

Thanks . Hopefully that will do it . I have a heat gun and an orbital sander now . This time I plan to do it right so I don't have the hassle two or three years down the line .

Tommy Boy 10-29-2008 08:11 AM

Electro- get all the loose stuff off with that sander. Prime with Peel Bond or Trim Magic which are a new kind of acrylic primer that penetrates bare wood.. Priming with oil will cause you a new set of problems. Never prime with oil over old latex. Oil primers will dry out and and crack in 3-4 years in your environment causing the topcoat to fail.

Matthewt1970 10-30-2008 11:30 AM

Sorry Tommyboy, but that's not the best advice. I have primed over old latex with oil based primers countless times and that is the industry standard for pro painters. We don't prime with oil because we are stubborn, it's just that latex primer will fail you in many ways when applied to bare wood. The day that make latex primer out-perform oil based primers, I will be on board as I am sure a lot of pro painters will be.

Tommy Boy 10-31-2008 08:54 AM

Matthew, depending how old the latex is, oil based primers/paint over latex can be a problem as the latex is more flexible than what it is being topcoated with. You might get away with it depending on how old the previous coating is. BTW, I work for XIM who has been making oil primers since 1935.

If you haven't used Peel Bond on bare wood you need to try it. E-mail me and I will send you a quart. It is truly different than traditional acrylic primers. It uses some proprietary chemistry and nanotechnology to give you a primer that penetrates and locks on to bare wood.

Matthewt1970 10-31-2008 12:07 PM

I'm game. I will shoot you an email and give your product a shot. I will mention that adhesion to bare wood is just one factor in deciding on a primer. You also need stain block and resistance to "cedar bleed" and knotty pine as well as a rust inhibitor. In my experience Latex Primers have just failed in those aspects. I remember priming the trim in my father's shop with latex primer. It was pine and had some knots. Within one year you could see all the knots plain as day. That was Zinsser Bullseye 123 wich is just about the best you can get in a Latex Primer. Latex primers also lift wood grain which can effect finish appearance as well as finish failure when the grain of the wood attempts to return to normal once the moisture has evaporated. I will admit that if 99% of your surface is already latex paint, no matter how old, then latex primer or even no primer at all is fine. I always say Latex sticks to Latex all day long.

slickshift 10-31-2008 04:45 PM

I've heard the hard/soft flexible/inflexible theories for a while now
They can make sense to the ears and brain, but in reality this is a case where we would sand and prime with a penetrating oil, then top coat with a premium quality latex exterior paint
It works

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