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rightit 09-30-2012 05:35 PM

Paint advice for an entire house with new and old surfaces
 
I've just had a floater into my house to float an office reno (converted from a garage), an area of my kitchen and one wall in my livingroom. I also had him skim and texture over some old wallpaper (circa 1964) in the cabinet area of the kitchen (seems to have come out fine...no blistering, etc..). I have some questions about painting type and procedures. We will be painting the entire interior of the house.

My floater says that 2 coats of good flat paint will work fine and no primer will be required, even on the new rock. He also says that Valspar is a good paint to use. Opinions?

Below are pertinent details about the areas to be painted. I'd appreciate your expert opinions on what paint to use and what procedure will produce the best results for each area (assuming different procedures and paints will be required for a given area) I prefer to use latex as opposed to enamel or oil unless I'm told differently:

1. Office (w/bathroom): All new 5/8" rock, freshly floated. Since the room is narrow (10'wx20'long), I'm thinking White will be the best color to minimize the narrow 'feel'.

2. Office bathroom (Semi-Gloss or satin or...?):
4'w x 8' L
Purple rock
Has shower (room has 50cfm ventilator)
Shower walls will be Durock/tile, shower ceiling
purple rock

3. Kitchen cabinet area (skimmed and textured wallpaper). Semi-gloss or satin or...?

I guess 2 coats of flat (w/o primer, as per my floater) will be fine for the other areas (?), some of which mix existing surfaces with newly rocked surfaces.

They are a livingroom (one wall of new rock) and an 'eating' area of the kitchen (almost a separate room with a large entry to cooking (cabinet).

The paint on the existing walls have a slight sheen to them. I'm not sure how to tell what kind of paint it is, but I used valspar latex satin on the bedroom 3 years ago and all seems well (2 coats, carriage grey, no primer).

Thanks for wading through this post, and thanks for any help :) .

joecaption 09-30-2012 06:39 PM

Not even sure what a "floater" is but I do know none of the steps you have done so far or have been suggested you do are correct.
Texture never should have been done over wall paper.
New drywall always gets primed, no exceptions.

rightit 09-30-2012 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1020698)
Not even sure what a "floater" is

A floater is a common term in these parts for SR finisher.


Quote:

but I do know none of the steps you have done so far or have been suggested you do are correct.

Texture never should have been done over wall paper.


New drywall always gets primed, no exceptions.
Actually, skimming over wallpaper is an accepted method for temporary use and is often done with excellent results (as, thus far, appears to be the case here). We'll be replacing cabinetry and sheetrock later, but it may be a few years. In most cases, the 'skim over' lasts.

As for priming the drywall, I can live with that. Thanks for your comments.

I'm still seeking opinions on the other issues.

Thanks for your comments. :)

chrisn 10-01-2012 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rightit (Post 1020732)
A floater is a common term in these parts for SR finisher.




Actually, skimming over wallpaper is an accepted :eek::no:method for temporary use and is often done with excellent results (as, thus far, appears to be the case here). We'll be replacing cabinetry and sheetrock later, but it may be a few years. In most cases, the 'skim over' lasts.

As for priming the drywall, I can live with that. Thanks for your comments.

I'm still seeking opinions on the other issues.

Thanks for your comments. :)

Skimming over wallpaper is NEVER an a good idea, accepted or not.Your'e result might "appear" OK for now but it will most likely come back to bite you in the butt sooner or later. This guy was just to cheap to do the job properly.
That said, to paint, one coat primer and two finish coats is the proper way to paint most situations, especially if "floating" has taken place.Buying paint at the box store is not a good idea either. Go to a real paint store to buy paint, that is all they do and they do it well.His recommending Valspar is just wrong

user1007 10-01-2012 05:52 AM

There is a reason you do not see painters flocking to box stores and brands like Behr and Valspar. If it were any good, they would be using it. Even contractor grade paint at a real paint store offers a better product.

I agree that wallpaper should never be painted or skim coated over. Nothing says I did not care about my home, when you go to sell it, like painted over paper. It should have been removed and it will come back to haunt you.

Primer and two coats for sure is the industry standard. If the painted walls are properly prepped and the paint on them now decent, you might get by with just two coats of paint on them. New drywall or mud needs a sealer/primer. If they happen to be an old oil finish, you will need a primer. If you are making dramatic color changes, a tinted primer is a good idea.

As for sheens to pick? That is really up to you. Things like Benjamin Moore Aura flat are as washable as higher sheen paints. Semi-gloss in large amounts can look "institutional" and a softer eggshell or even a satin might be a better choice. It sounds like your office bath has adequate ventilation so I don't think you need semi to resist moisture. Semi-gloss on trim is used frequently.

Just remember that the higher the sheen of paint you use, the more any surface variations and defects will show up.

Lighter colors will generally make things look bigger but if you have a situation like the hall you describe you will not be able to disguise that it is a tunnel. Add some lighting and paint it whatever color you want. You can even make it darker and the rooms it flows into dramatic and "the light at the end of the tunnel" and it will not freak anybody out.

rightit 10-01-2012 08:49 PM

Thanks for the comments. Looks like Benjamin Moore is what I'll be using (thanks for the thumbs down reviews on Valspar).

After consulting with a Contractor friend, I'll spray First Coat Primer, Primer, then top coat for ceilings, then finish the walls (using roller) with a quality flat paint that can be cleaned.

More than half the battle is getting proper info. This forum has helped a lot in that regard.


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