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-   -   oil to latex, proclassic vs behr (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/oil-latex-proclassic-vs-behr-108558/)

GLS0628 06-23-2011 08:59 AM

oil to latex, proclassic vs behr
 
I am wanting some opinions on what paint people are liking more. I am looking at changing over to a latex paint for trim, doors, and built in entertainment center. I have been using SW proclassic oil base. I am wanting to change over to their proclassic latex acrylic with enamel finish. couple of questions:

1. what is the best way to prepare the oil painted wood to change to water base? Do I scuff it up with sandpaper, then use oil base primer, then apply new latex?

2. or can I wipe it down first with one of the products that soften the finish and go straight on with new latex?

3. or can I wipe it down to soften finish and then use one of the latex paints with the primer mixed in?

4. for a DIY'er, how does the new proclassic acrylic latex compare to the Behr all in one paint and primer? I noticed that it got the highest rating on consumer reports. Price is not really an issue if one is better than the other.

5. lastly, if I was using a semi-gloss in the proclassic oil will the sheen on semi-gloss proclassic acrylic latex be the same or do I need to go up to gloss for a better match?

thanks...

user1007 06-23-2011 09:40 AM

There is no such thing as paint and primer in one. The chemistry is designed to do different things and often one will be suspended in petroleum solvents and the other waterbased.

You cannot compare Pro Classic or any quality paint store paint to Behr. Comparing it to SW Pro Classic is not possible. I will not bash it again here but read a few posts on this site and you will see it is not well liked. I used Behr only when someone donated it for a NFP project and did not revel in the experience. If you are used to using nice paint store paint, don't switch now. Even the contractor grades of paint store paint is better than box store brands.

Now then, since you don't seem opposed to working with solvent based products at least one more time in limited manner, the best way to make your switch to latex acrylic trim paint is to rough up the oil based surface you have with fine grit sandpaper and lay down a nice coat of alkyd primer.

Alkyds get confused as being oil based primers but they are not. They do come suspended in solvents that smell like oil based paint, and you work with tools you would for oil-based paints, hence the confusion I guess.

Anyhow, you can get nice alkyd underbody primers for enamels at your paint store. You can put just about any oil or latex finish over alkyd. Tint the primer to 40 percent or so of your final trim color if you want and are making dramatic color changes or applying deep tone color.

You could lay down a superbonding coat of latex primer. I just don't think you get the same surface but I am picky I guess.

Once primed, you should put on two coats of finish. Aim for as high acrylic content and UV protection as your budget will allow. I like adding a paint conditioner such as Floetrol (their others) to the trim paint to eliminate or greatly reduce brush strokes. Of course I use a nice quality angled sash brush for trim work.

Good luck.

STL B. 06-23-2011 05:57 PM

I'd put a little of your remaining oil based paint on a piece of primed wood/trim and take that to the paint store and let the sales person pick what sheen would match best.

I have painted quit a bit with proclassic lately and I think it rocks..........but it is a little tricky to brush on though. It dries really really fast so like the above poster mentioned flotrol will help to minimize brush strokes.


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