christalynn11

About a year ago, I tackled the task of painting our master bathroom. Its a five piece - so we have a double vanity, a separate "toilet" room for lack of a better description (doesn't have a door but has three walls), a stand up single shower with door, and a huge soaking tub with a window above it. I choose a pretty chocolate brown paint and a pale, mint accent color to finish two of the walls and provide contrast.

I originally had planned to use a bath and kitchen rated paint that had an eggshell enamel finish - I let the paint guy at HD talk me into using semi-gloss and it went downhill from there. I taped and used a bit of silicone sealer to prevent bleed through as I had read to do with heavy textured walls. It bled through in spots, and where it didn't it adhered to the texture and tore the texture off when I removed the tape (that trick actually worked FANTASTIC on the seams between two colored walls and gave a super clean line, FYI - but the ceiling had the crappy builders paint on it which is what it adhered to). In places near the tub, it dripped under the paint without my knowledge. I now have dark brown paint on my vinyl flooring and also on some ceramic tile border around the edge of our soaking tub.

When all was through, it ended up looking like a shiny version of the interior of a gallon of Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. And while that is my favorite flavor, I don't like the colors AT ALL in my bath.

I'm going back to a relatively neutral grey-tan color. I've primed the surface already, fixed the texture areas and plan to get cracking this Saturday. I will not be taping - I learned the hard way that my steady free hand cutting in might be more time consuming, but is totally worth it. Hoping it will be less Baskins Robbins and more 'spa' when I'm through.

My questions:

1) Can I reasonably use and expect lasting wear out of an eggshell enamel in this room? If not, what finish can I pick that is going to be the least possible shine? The previous colors flashed SO badly that it was unbearable.

2) Can I get the paint off of the vinyl floor? If so, it there any option other than acetone (which I am afraid will strip the flooring?) It's bits and pieces here and there, not large areas.

3) The tiles that have the paint on them were not sealed. Is there any way to fix the paint on them or will they need to be replaced?

PTP WX

1) Eggshell should be fine for a bathroom, but get a GOOD paint. When I was painting we only used Pittsburgh Ultra (Menards) and Benjamin Moore. Make sure the walls are wiped down, clean and totally dry before painting.

2) Have you tried scratching the paint off with a fingernail? Maybe a dull flathead screwdriver, or a grout tool..... scratch lightly with the later two, I'd be suprised if most didn't pop off with a fingernail, then try a MagicEraser for the rest.

3) Almost all ceramic tile is glazed, it really doesn't need a sealer. MagicEraser or a grout tool would lightly sratch off most of the paint. Then a little paint thinner on a scotch pad if neccesary. Be slow and careful just in case.

Wiping the paint up before it dries is much easier than dealing with it later. For cuting the room in and getting clean lines, try to go with smaller high quality brushes.

christalynn11

Okay so. Upon reading your response, I realized that while I said ceramic, I'm not sure if that is what it actually is. It isn't glazed and smooth - it looks porous and rough, like a mimic of stone to the touch. I will try the magic eraser idea (hadn't done that yet) and see if it works.

As for the floor, the places I got that was due to stepping in drip of the brown and smearing it - I've tried to peel it up but its not thick enough to come off that way - the vinyl flooring is also the type that is rough/textured and appears to mimic stone. The paint seeps into the divets.

I know it's easier to do this stuff when it's wet, and I won't make the same mistake twice. After painting/taping this room for three entire days straight, I basically gave up and stopped being careful because I was so angry. Not a good combo! I've painted almost our entire house on my own and cut it all in by hand - it looks fantastic. I should have given myself a break before I tackled a bathroom but I rushed and then lsot my patience.

You mention using "good paint." Everything in this place so far has been painted with Valspar from Lowes and although I have been pleased with it, I need something for this room that is going to be two coats and done. What is my best bet?

PTP WX

I have not used the Valspar, always Pittsburgh Ultra and Benjamin Moore. In my house, I use the Pittsburgh Ultra because I am used to it, it covers well and lasts a long time.... Benjamin Moore is a little higher quality, but not noticably. Give the MagicEraser a try, otherwise gently with a grout tool would probably be the best option. Paint thinners / chemicals may warp the vinyl. A Scouring pad (Scotch Brite) and soapy water may work also. On the stone / travertine / faux stone I'd use a grout tool. They are inexpensive and should be at any home improvement store.

Don't paint angry, when your getting frustrated finish the wall your on and grab a beer! good luck

christalynn11

The more information I readm the more I am sold on trying to pick up SM or BN for this job. Now to be honest, I'm nervous about my primer. I used (shudder) Zap. Again, listened to the "pros at HD" and bought blindly what I was told to buy.

I don't ever in my entire life want to paint this room again, so please please tell me what I need to do to fix this nightmare from start to finish. All of my cuts are going to be by hand (I'm steady and luckily they have turned out great otherwise) and I've got two days planned for the project (this weekend.)

Also, I've mentioned I am using a grey-tan color. Its faily light and I had planned to do the ceiling the same color. Any reason why I shouldn't do it monochromatic like that?

christalynn11

One other thing. Some paint seems to have gotten into the sealant/caulking around the tub, etc - I'm going to try and remove as much of this as I can and then reseal everything for clean lines. Is that the right method?

PTP WX

It sounds like your doing fine. Don't let the previous bad experience in one room give you a bad feeling after all of the other rooms you have painted successfully. I would strip out the caulk then recaulk after the paint dries, it just looks cleaner that way.

We always primed with Zinsser, but I haven't heard anything bad about Zap. I prefer having my ceilings white for reflecting light and it is just a preference, but my wife likes having some color on the ceiling. I don't choose colors ever, I am red / yellow color blind so I leave the decorating and color choices to my wife.

Painting dark colors is difficult, especially with 'lesser quality' paints. I have found Reds and Browns to be the most difficult paints to work with. There is a tendancy to try to pile the paint on for coverage and it ends up splattering and looking sloppy. Coverage can be tough. I think if you primed well, you'll find the painting easier this time around just because of the color. Best of luck!

PS - What is SM and BN?

christalynn11

SW and BM - Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore.

Total typos. I'm tired.

PTP WX

Both are good choices, I have used both. If inclined, Sherwin Williams has a terrific reputation. I haven't painted professionally in 17 years, but the crew I used to work with uses SW on the high end jobs.

chrisn

Your Zap primer will be OK but as posted go with a SW or BM finish paint. Paint thinner will have no effect on latex paint. You need to use denatured alcohol, nail polish remover or Goof-off.

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sdsester

Or Krud Cutter or Oops.

If it is latex paint you want to wait until it is dry.

There are no pros at Lowe's, HD, Menard's or any of the box stores! Stay away from them and their products. None have so much as handled a paint brush for more than a minute or two. Valspar, Behr, Dutch Boy (Sherwin Williams bottom of the barrel crap), Glidden, and Pittsburgh (as sold in box stores. Their higher end stuff is nice but you have to get it from one of their paint stores) are not worth the containers they come in.

PTP WX

Dutch Boy is the absolute worst! Glidden is half water, and the Behr paint pigment is terrible for covering. Menards quit carrying Pittsburgh Ultra for years, but after repeated requests (you carry the cheap-o Pittsburgh, why not carry the respectable stuff) I can get Pittsburgh Ultra at my local Menards again. I would totally agree with this! Don't paint with cheap paint, it just makes you angry and you paint twice! Where is the savings if you pay $14 for a gallon of colored water, only to go back and pay $25 for the stuff you should have got the first time!

Matthewt1970

Just stay away from big box stores. There is little difference between the $8 Glidden and the $30 Top end Behr except that the Glidden might be a little better...

chrisn