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Old 03-08-2012, 01:32 PM   #1
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


After reading many posts, I've decided to paint the brand new T-111 I'm putting on my horse barn.
I do have some questions:

-Prime + 1 good coat of Duration paint?
....OR just go with 2 coats of Duration with it being a self-primer?
With it being brand new T-111, can I avoid a separate primer only or should I prime first then paint with duration? (I don't know if the T-111 has many knots in it...if it does, then I assume I'll need to prime then go with Duration on top of that)

- If I prime, is 1 good coat of Duration good enough to last a long time...Sherwin Williams is telling me yes...do you agree?

-Can I use a water based exterior primer (A-100) for the bottom edges, cut edges, and back of the T-111 or do I need an oil-based primer (xim peelbond or something of that nature)?---it's going to be brand new T-111 so I don't think peelbond is necessary. is it?
----for the back of the T-111 it is going over housewrap + cedar breather product on a pole barn....

Thank you for the help!

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Old 03-08-2012, 03:38 PM   #2
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


Always prime new wood Then two coats of good quality of paint. Just FYI If your doing the work for yourself you will need to document the weather photograph all the prep work and steps you did to the final coat. If you ever want to make a claim on the Duration paint. Oh and keep the receipt and proof of purchase. That is something SWP will not tell you.

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Old 03-08-2012, 05:40 PM   #3
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


I have painted lots of T-111. Nailbags is right, a real wood primer and a topcoat (or two) is the way to go. Personally, I prefer an OIL-base primer for new wood including T-111. Having said that, I have also used a quality latex wood primer (Sherwin-Williams) with nearly the same success. Duration may be a bit of overkill. SuperPaint has been my paint of choice for T-111. On my very own house I have T-111 on the north and west sides. Painted it only twice in the 20 years I have lived in this house......no peeling, a little bit of fading, no rot, very happy with how it has withstood the weather.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:55 PM   #4
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


super paint or A-100 is the way to go Duration is over kill.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:06 AM   #5
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


I'd recommend using a good Solid body Latex stain instead of paint. You will be glad you did. It will hold up better then paint and be much easier and faster to do when it's time to re-paint in 10 years or so.

Also I try and stay away from oil primers and paints on exterior jobs. Oil tends to dry out the wood and does not allow it to "breathe" the way latex products do, hence you may eventually end up with cracking, alligatoring, or peeling paint.

If you're going with Sherwin Williams Woodscapes is an Excellent product.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:27 PM   #6
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


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I'd recommend using a good Solid body Latex stain instead of paint. You will be glad you did. It will hold up better then paint and be much easier and faster to do when it's time to re-paint in 10 years or so.

Also I try and stay away from oil primers and paints on exterior jobs. Oil tends to dry out the wood and does not allow it to "breathe" the way latex products do, hence you may eventually end up with cracking, alligatoring, or peeling paint.

If you're going with Sherwin Williams Woodscapes is an Excellent product.

Please explain why The top coats,I understand, the primer, not so much
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:13 PM   #7
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


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I'd recommend using a good Solid body Latex stain instead of paint. You will be glad you did. It will hold up better then paint and be much easier and faster to do when it's time to re-paint in 10 years or so.

Also I try and stay away from oil primers and paints on exterior jobs. Oil tends to dry out the wood and does not allow it to "breathe" the way latex products do, hence you may eventually end up with cracking, alligatoring, or peeling paint.

If you're going with Sherwin Williams Woodscapes is an Excellent product.
You can paint T-111 siding and it will be just fine Oil based primer on wood with a latex paint over it like A-100 will last just fine in fact wood siding has been around for hundred years and has been painted with no problems. Or if your right no wood prduct should be painted and i owe you a apology?
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:43 PM   #8
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You can paint T-111 siding and it will be just fine Oil based primer on wood with a latex paint over it like A-100 will last just fine in fact wood siding has been around for hundred years and has been painted with no problems. Or if your right no wood prduct should be painted and i owe you a apology?
I never said T-111 could not be painted. I said I would recommend a solid body stain instead.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:23 PM   #9
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then I owe you a apology.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:49 PM   #10
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


T-11 can be painted with success, but I would use a solid stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscapes instead of painting, as it is easier to maintain long term. It only requires two coats up front and no primer. If I did paint it I would use Sherwin Williams A-100 water bourne primer and two coats of Sherwin Williams Superpaint. Duration is a good paint, but primer should still be used and Superpaint is a great paint too at a lower cost.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #11
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T-11 can be painted with success, but I would use a solid stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscapes instead of painting, as it is easier to maintain long term. It only requires two coats up front and no primer. If I did paint it I would use Sherwin Williams A-100 water bourne primer and two coats of Sherwin Williams Superpaint. Duration is a good paint, but primer should still be used and Superpaint is a great paint too at a lower cost.
My thoughts exactly.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:36 PM   #12
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I agree 100% with JMD. Soild stain not paint, and never oil based.
Stain faids and most often does not peel, also it breathes. Any moisture in the wood will just push off and bubble up oil based paint.
I've been though all this with Sherwin Williams paint company with a customer that had been dealing with failing paint for 10 years.
Sanded it all off went with stain and no more problums.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:50 AM   #13
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Please explain why The top coats,I understand, the primer, not so much
Oil based primer is still King with bare wood, hands down. That being said, I would recommend trying a quart of latex stain to see if the T-111 is going to have tannin bleeding. It probably won't, but if it does then you need an oil based primer.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:10 AM   #14
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


For the record, solid stain or latex paint (over an oil-based primer) are both acceptable means of treating T-111. In some instances, T-111 actually has a waxy type surface that MUST BE coated with a latex bonding type primer for the topcoats to stick.

In the end, it's all about how you want it to look. Do you want the flat look of stain? Or do you want some sheen on the wood? I would say for a horse barn, solid stain is preferable. For a house in a neighborhood you would want to consider a Satin Latex.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:30 PM   #15
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New T-111 on New Horse Barn


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There are a lot of misconceptions about oil based paints/primers here that I just let go.

I guess that is a trait I need to work on

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