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Old 08-23-2010, 05:21 PM   #1
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New Deck, New to Decks


Hey, I just finished building my deck a back in june. It is pressure treated (pine i'm guessing) and has had some time now to dry. I want to stain it and have done some reading but have some questions I couldnt find answered already.

A. Do I also have to seal it as well even if I am staining? Are those usually one or the other?

B. I read an oil or alkyd is good for the walking surface (I want to be able to see the woods natural beauty so a translucent there). For the Rails I want something a hair darker and read an acrylic is good for a solid or semi solid. This sound good? Any recommended Manufacturers?

C. Do I need to sand first? (its not bad imo) What steps do I need to take for a brand new deck to stain it? I didnt see a sticky unless I missed it.

I am located in SE Michigan btw and heres a pic of the deck (acutally a small porch). Thanks.


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Old 08-24-2010, 05:53 AM   #2
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Prep:
At the very least you want to pressure wash it after applying a cleaner like Wolman Deckbrite or a mixture of 1 gal water, 1 qt bleach, 1 cup tsp.
Let it dry for a few days.

Products:
It depends on the look and longevity you want. I like and sell a lot of Sikkens, one of the best stains on the market.

Sikkens SRD - Oil based one coat stain. SRD stands for Siding, Rails, Deck. You can use this product everywhere on the project. Comes in multiple colors. The product stains and seals all at once, like most traditional one part stains.

Sikkens DEK Finish - Oil based two coat system. This will give a satin sheen and a furniture like finish. It will last longer and look very nice but it's expensive and color selection is limited. I don't really recommend it in your situation anyway. You don't have much ground clearance to allow proper ventilation for the product and it would be difficult to coat all sides of the boards as recommended by the manufacturer.

Sikkens Solid DEK - An acrylic 2 coat solid stain. Will last the longest. Soap and water cleanup. You won't see the wood through the product. It completely blocks out the color of the wood, though you'll still see the grain.

SRD is probably what you want. All these products seal as they stain.

More info at:
http://www.nam.sikkens.com

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Old 08-24-2010, 11:00 AM   #3
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Thanks Pop, good info. Any other people want to chime in

Do I need to sand? If so is that the first step or is the cleaner the first step?
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Old 08-25-2010, 05:55 AM   #4
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In my opinion sanding should come first so you are washing the dust away when you pressure wash. Sikkens recommend both pressure washing with the bleach solution and sanding with 80 grit. 99% of people aren't going to do this and I don't blame them. Most people just pressure wash. So long as you use the right chemicals to kill the mold/mildew spores and get the solution all cleaned off then you'll be fine. I've never had anyone claim a stain failure that was related to not sanding.
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:43 AM   #5
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Thanks again Pop. Looks like I have a store less than a block away where they carry Cabot, so I was gonna give them a try.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:56 AM   #6
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Cabot is fine as well. Sikkens and Cabot one coat products should be on par quality wise.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:15 AM   #7
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Cool, I"m gonna pickup a sander and go the extra mile and sand it as well (recommended on side of can). I'll post some pics of the finished project in a week hopefully.
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Old 08-30-2010, 06:59 AM   #8
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Nope. Nope. Nope. First of all, if you pressure wash that deck, you'll trash it. All you have to do is apply a wood cleaner with a bug sprayer and then rinse. You don't need to blast that thing with 2500 psi. Secondly, when you clean/rinse it, you'll raise the grain of the wood, so sanding it first is a complete waste of time. When you're finished cleaning and sanding you'll have to use a stain with a high spf rating as it looks like it gets a lot of sun. Also, you should use water-based products as much as possible. Oil-based product's main weakness is that they're not good for exterior use. They are mold food and they also dry up and crack. Water-based products stay flexible, resist sun damage and are mold-proof. Cabot's specializes in such products. I used one of their exterior solid stains on a picnic table two years ago with no primer onto unfinished wood, and it still looks new after several parties and a beagle that likes to use it as a perch. Good luck.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewpy View Post
Nope. Nope. Nope. First of all, if you pressure wash that deck, you'll trash it. All you have to do is apply a wood cleaner with a bug sprayer and then rinse. You don't need to blast that thing with 2500 psi. Secondly, when you clean/rinse it, you'll raise the grain of the wood, so sanding it first is a complete waste of time. When you're finished cleaning and sanding you'll have to use a stain with a high spf rating as it looks like it gets a lot of sun. Also, you should use water-based products as much as possible. Oil-based product's main weakness is that they're not good for exterior use. They are mold food and they also dry up and crack. Water-based products stay flexible, resist sun damage and are mold-proof. Cabot's specializes in such products. I used one of their exterior solid stains on a picnic table two years ago with no primer onto unfinished wood, and it still looks new after several parties and a beagle that likes to use it as a perch. Good luck.
You had me till you recommended water based products on a deck, especially on a walking surface. I am glad your picnic table still looks good, but latex/water based products will fail you miserably on horizontal walking surfaces. I cannot tell you how much mold I have removed/cleaned off of water based stains.

To rely on a products flexibilty means it is on the surface relying on adhesion. Oil will penetrate and protect.
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:05 AM   #10
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Well I have already powerwashed it, sanded it, applied cleaner and powerwashed it again. It is has now dried for the recommended time so i am staining as soon as I eat some breakfast here

Here are before and after sanding pics




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Old 08-30-2010, 12:55 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by drewpy View Post
Nope. Nope. Nope. First of all, if you pressure wash that deck, you'll trash it. All you have to do is apply a wood cleaner with a bug sprayer and then rinse. You don't need to blast that thing with 2500 psi. Secondly, when you clean/rinse it, you'll raise the grain of the wood, so sanding it first is a complete waste of time. When you're finished cleaning and sanding you'll have to use a stain with a high spf rating as it looks like it gets a lot of sun. Also, you should use water-based products as much as possible. Oil-based product's main weakness is that they're not good for exterior use. They are mold food and they also dry up and crack. Water-based products stay flexible, resist sun damage and are mold-proof. Cabot's specializes in such products. I used one of their exterior solid stains on a picnic table two years ago with no primer onto unfinished wood, and it still looks new after several parties and a beagle that likes to use it as a perch. Good luck.
We power wash all of our decks before staining them, we use wolmans deck brite and turn the psi down to about 800 or so, a power washer can be used as long as the operator is aware of what he's doing and lowers the pressure. Our stains of choice are cabot and sikkens. I prefer to use oil base or alkyd stains on decks.
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:20 AM   #12
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You had me till you recommended water based products on a deck, especially on a walking surface. I am glad your picnic table still looks good, but latex/water based products will fail you miserably on horizontal walking surfaces. I cannot tell you how much mold I have removed/cleaned off of water based stains.

To rely on a products flexibilty means it is on the surface relying on adhesion. Oil will penetrate and protect.

Yeah, I know it sounds weird, and believe me, I've used latex stain on a lot more than just my picnic bench. I've done several decks as well. They've all turned out flawlessly. I will also say that cabot's solid stain is the only one I've ever used, so I can't speak to any of the others. It has never ever ever failed in any way on any of the walking surfaces. In fact many of the new industrial floor epoxies are low voc latex. The reason the cabot's is so effective is because it's fortified with teflon. Regarding the mold issue, it's the alkyds in the oil-base that the mold feeds on.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:53 AM   #13
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Looking forward to seeing pictures of your stained porch. I just finished building a similar front entrance to our house with pressure treated pine (same post caps as yours, btw). Just finished mine last month, so I'm still waiting for it to dry out a bit before staining. Been looking on this site for what stain/sealer to use. I live in Woodstock, NY (Catskill area) and we endure some heavy winters, so I'm thinking an oil base stain should work best. So far from what I've read, Ready Seal, Sikkens and Cabots seem to be the stains of choice.

Good luck with your project.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:26 PM   #14
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Well, you "May" get a good result with Latex stain, BUT, you are taking your chances. The Internet is full of horror stories of failed Latex deck stain. My girlfriend's deck is just such a story.

THIS is why you don't use Latex Deck Stain

You just don't see problems like that with oil stains.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:13 PM   #15
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Do not use high pressure (water) as mentioned 800 psi or less. 2000 or even 1600 psi can split the wood.

Frank Lardino

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