[quote=4ThGeneration;306650]Just one scenario:
Give the wood a light cleaning of say Simple Cherry
and some chlorine.
In a 5 gallon bucket use 3.5 Gallons of chlorine (Freshest they have)
I use 10 OZ of Simple Cherry and add no water because I downstream and the water will be added anyhow. This will remove any dirt, grease and such to make sure you have a clean surface.
When dry caulk up every joint using Benjamin Moore Moorlastic caulk. Also, caulk where the t-111 meets the foundation block. You have to get on your knees to do this usually, but it helps big time.
I would say you need to use a high build exterior latex primer. When you do this you cant use the crappy HD small electric rigs or a wagner. You have to get a pump large enough to be able to handle a paint that has like 70% solids and 30%water. Its the total reverse of reg paint. Also make sure it is breathable. This will help the moisture not be trapped in while nothing being able to penetrate inward. When you spray make sure you use a 1 1/4 inch nap to back roll as this will push the paint into the grooves and soak in better instead of just laying on top.
On this step I would say to use Benjamin Moores Aura Exterior paint in a satin finish for the body. Trim to me always looks better in a Semi Gloss to give it pop.
Then again, I can write an whole book on this subject, but too much can be overload.
If you need more specific advice then contact me on here or my email. colonial-powerwashingandpainting2comcast.net
I lived in Florida which is a very harsh climate for exterior homes with all the mold, moisture, humidity, bugs and salt. air.[/QUOTE
Many power washing and painting contractor also use tsp for cleaning prior to painting or staining a substrate.
Chlorine bleach removes natural wood color, destroys wood lignin (the glue that holds wood fibers together), corrodes metal hardwear, and kills vegetation that surrounds the area