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Old 06-12-2008, 06:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcalebo View Post
When I asked if SW SuperPaint would work as good as BM Aura I meant specifically in regard to painting over wild colors.
The answer is no
With paint you tend to get what you pay for

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Old 06-12-2008, 07:45 AM   #17
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I am a firm believer in paying the price to get the good stuff whenever possible and you will be happier. This is typical on so many things today. If the price seems too good to be true, it most likely is!

I buy the better paints when possible. I would go to a dedicated paint store if I had one nearby (I don't).
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:33 AM   #18
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I have been using SuperPaint over crazy colors, (with primer underneath to seal off all sorts of stains, drywall repairs, and unknown paint quality with the existing coats), and it has covered just fine in two coats. I have covered hot pink with deep-base green SuperPaint and dark scab-red with a pastel yellow. Not a speck of the original color can be found.

Yes, Aura is a better paint than SuperPaint (Aura is supposed to wear better and does not require priming with new drywall), but I think that the SuperPaint would work just fine. The absolute best paint is not required over every surface in a house. I don't think anybody here uses Aura on ceilings, for instance... Yes, the most-expensive paints at a paint store are the best, but the best is not always needed. I would think that SuperPaint (or Regal) is "good enough" for most uses. It certainly was good enough for the many years that SuperPaint was the best from SW, and Regal the best from BM.

Just curious, does Aura seal stains also?

SirWired

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Old 06-13-2008, 01:50 PM   #19
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Thanks sirwired - That is exactly what I was wanting to know. I'm not looking to have the best paintjob in town I just want it to look nice and not cost me an arm and a leg. I think I'm going to go with the SuperPaint. It's on sale for half the price of Aura and I'm just not convinced I have to have Aura at this point. Maybe after one room I will change my mind. I will let you know

Caleb

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Old 07-12-2008, 05:38 PM   #20
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OK - So I painted a huge living room in my parents house they just bought using SW SuperPaint. Two coats of paint and it looks terible - roller marks, and blotchy paint. The only thing I didn't do was prime it with anything. Besides that I did everything everyone said to the T. I rolled it in 8 foot sections and then back rolled - no w, n, z stuff. According to the guy at SW the reason the paint job looks like it does is because we didn't roll in w, n, z pattern. I'm sorta at a loss. We used some cheap Valspar that was left over from something else and covered a bedroom in ONE coat - Go Fig!

So am I just a terrible painter or what? This is a big house with 18 foot ceilings and I have about 2,000 sf left to paint so I want to know what I'm doing wrong. Do I need to prime everything else from now on or is the paint just no good??? Thanks for your advice (and valid criticism of my painting ).
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Old 07-12-2008, 06:53 PM   #21
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Wow! That is huge!

The last room I painted (ceiling and walls), I did so in 2' sections, back rolling, no W or N, etc. The results were Excellent! In fact, my gf gave me some crap since I was not painting the way that I taught her a few years back (W). Oh, well, New method worked great for me. Maybe try another coat and go out 4' each time....
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcalebo View Post
...Two coats of paint and it looks terible - roller marks, and blotchy paint. ...
So am I just a terrible painter or what? ...
Maybe...



The three biggest causes of roller marks are
1) Poor quality roller sleeves
2) Poor quality paint
3) Poor technique

You don't say which sleeve you are using
I'd recommend a Purdy White Dove, or some Wooster Pro or Super Dooz
A Wooster 50/50 would not be a poor investment either

Your paint, although not my fave, isn't a poor paint
What sheen are you using?
Certain sheens require you end your section with rolls all the same way
(up/down or left/right)

The most common technique issue, is people trying to squoosh every last drop out of the sleeve...like wringing a sponge
The paint should be applied...laid down...not squished out
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:15 AM   #23
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Just a side question here from the mind of a newbie...is it possible that the parents' livingroom could have had an oil-based paint on it, which could have then caused problems with not using a primer before applying the interior latex SuperPaint? Or do I just have an over-active imagination? I think I would be too insecure to skip the primer. No wonder the guy at SW smiles when I come in the store!

Congrats to Caleb on your new home! I hope by now your financing has worked out, and your paint plan is "rolling along"!
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:13 PM   #24
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Yes... yes... I followed this advice exactly. Purdy white dove 3/4 nap roller on these textured walls. The sheen is satin. My roll technique was consistent. I loaded roller and rolled up 8 feet down 8 feet. Then I moved over, loaded up the roller, and rolled up down and then back rolled up then down. The process kept going like this. I did one section in the dining area with SW Duration satin. It was a dark red color. It covered in two coats pretty stinking well. It did, however, take a whole gallon to do just one wall. What is sad is that the Valspar from Lowe's has gone the farthest and looks the best of all of it - go figure eh?

Any other suggestions. I forgot to mention I didn't squeeze the rollers as you had told me not to do that already. Also, when i say roller marks it's more of just bring able to see vations in color on the roll lines not that they are protruding raised marks. OK - hit me with your suggestions

Caleb
p.s. I painted over latex paint with latex
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:10 PM   #25
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Hmmm....well, it's been a while since I've used SuperPaint
Like I said, I wasn't impressed, but it wasn't bad
It also, like many other paints, may have had a formulation change recently to stay ahead of the EPA regs
Truthfully satin is a tough sheen to roll, but really, it shouldn't be that bad

At this point, given what you've written, I'd suggest a switch in product
If nothing else, it will let you know if it's you...
Your Duration wall went better, but you should be getting more than 250 sq. ft. per gallon, unless it's old builder's paint you are going over

If you haven't got an objection or supply issue, you might ant to try some of Ben Moore's Regal for the next room...or perhaps even the Aura
Perhaps those are more toward your style of application

With a blechy wall and a gallon wall, and miles to go...you won't lose much by plotting a different course at this juncture
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Old 07-15-2008, 02:42 AM   #26
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OK... so here is the update.

I rolled the Master room tonight. When I left it looked great. I got a lot more coverage too. It was SW SuperPaint but the color was kind of a chocolate brown color.

I'm wondering if the paint we are painting over isn't the reason for the problems in the other room. It's a nasty light colored flat paint and it's obvious they did a terrible job when they put it on.

I'm also wondering if it's the color we are painting the other room. The other room is called Kilim Biege and it just does not seem to want to cover consistently - who knows.

Later this week I tackle the master bath which is a lighter color. I will let you know how that rolls.

Laaaaaaaaaater
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:52 AM   #27
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Could be either/both
Keep us posted
Good Luck
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:01 PM   #28
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Builder paint can often be the cause of problems. If the wall was never primed (not unheard of among low-end painters), and then the wall was coated with cheap builder paint, then the "powder" paint and unprimied drywall can often soak up your new topcoat like a sponge, which would also explain your coverage issues.

The fix for this is to either prime, or use a self-priming paint like Aura. Personally, I have been priming everything in my house, which looked much like yours, due largely to a lot of drywall repairs and occasional stains scattered throughout the house.

SirWired

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