Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Painting

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-09-2008, 02:31 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Here is the deal... My wife and I just bought our first home. It's a forclosure we got an unbelievable deal on. The only problem??? There are 9... yes count them 9... different colors downstairs alone! We want to keep some of the paint and try to narrow it down to a few colors.

I'm new to painting. I painted once before and it was a nightmare... the typical stuff: rollar marks, brush marks, etc.... End result was garbage paint job. I don't want that to happen again.

I'm attaching pictures of the house. The common thought seems to be that the reason for painting disasters is usually the paint purchased not so much the painter. We have lots of dark colors we have to paint over so I want to make the right paint choice. We want paint that will do the job but at the same time we are on a tight budget. So what's your best advice. Paint brand and line? Sheen? (we have two young boys so we are thinking satin for everything - we don't want lots of shine but we want something a little forgiving).

One last thing. I hear two lines of thinking with painting over dark paint. One group says you must primer. The other says it's a waste of time and doesn't make a difference. So which group is right?

Thanks!








iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2008, 07:13 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 551
Rewards Points: 502
Default

Need Lots O' Help


That reminds me a lot of our house, which wasn't even a foreclosure. Here is what you have to do:

  1. Remove the wallpaper borders. Use a perforation tool, hot DIF, and a wallpaper scraper. All three products should be available at your local big box. If the border removal causes your drywall to rip down to the paper, which then "fuzzes", or any glue is left behind, coat with Zinsser Gardz.
  2. The stripes, the "trees", and the removed border are all likely going to leave a non-level surface. If sanding doesn't fix it up, (it likely won't), you need to "skim coat" those walls with joint compound. Just get a huge drywall knife, a compound pan, a bucket of pre-mixed compound, and apply a very thin layer over all the areas that have surface defects.
  3. While it likely isn't strictly necessary, I would prime the whole darn house. It will make you feel better, and you also won't have to worry about the quality of the paint the previous owners used. I use Sherwin Williams PrepRite Pro Block Latex. And yes, your walls will look blotchy. Most primers have horrible hide, unless specifically designed for hiding.
  4. Topcoat with two coats of the top-of-the-line, or near-top from an actual paint store. (From Sherwin Williams, this would be Duration or SuperPaint, from Benjamin Moore, Aura or Regal.) A LOT of paint problems are caused by using Big Box paint. There simply isn't good paint available there. (Yeah, we know about the CR ratings, and we don't know how they come up with them.) Yes, you will likely pay at least $30/gallon. It's worth it.
It doesn't have to be SWP or BM paint, but definitely get your paint from a paint store.

As far as painting tips go: Buy top-line Purdy, Wooster, or Corona painting tools. Personally, I use a 3/8" Purdy White Dove cover and a 2 1/2" angle-sash brush as my primary application tools. Yes, those covers and brushes are expensive, but you will never need to buy another brush if you take care of it, and even expensive roller covers are only $3.50 or so...

The primary cause of roller marks (other than a cheap cover) is trying to "squeeze" the paint out of the roller. To properly use one, ignore all that W/M/N junk you see everywhere. Instead, load your roller, apply a single 8' stripe, backroll once, and then re-roll the previous stripe. Then move on. Let the roller do the work... countless millions of dollars have gone into designing a roller cover that will give up the paint, and paint that will stick to the wall; you "squeezing" the cover like a sponge onto the wall is not necessary. Apply just enough pressure to get even contact across the roller surface.

Brush marks are cause by similar problems: poor paint, poor brush, over-working the paint. Apply your quality paint with one stroke of your quality brush, back-brush once, and move on. Brushing more just thins out the coat.

Oh, and two coats are an absolute requirement, especially for the major color changes you are doing.

SirWired

sirwired is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2008, 08:15 PM   #3
Tired, Cold, and Damp
 
slickshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 3,089
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Yup






...that's about all I could say about that
slickshift is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2008, 10:19 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Is the joint compound going to mess up the wall texturing? Will I need need to retexture after that? Is SW paint going to do just as well for me as BM? I have SW close by and it's a little cheaper. Thanks for all your advice. How much is SW and BM making off of you?
iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2008, 06:43 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 551
Rewards Points: 502
Default

Need Lots O' Help


What kind of texture do you have on your walls? Is it just roller stipple, or actual texture?

SirWired
sirwired is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2008, 12:03 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


What do you mean by roller stripple? DO you mean unintentional texture from the roller? It has intentional texture if taht's what you are asking.

Last edited by iamcalebo; 06-10-2008 at 12:07 PM.
iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 06:42 AM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


I think you got good advice from Sirwired. I would change two things.

On the wall paper removal start out trying just warm water with out perforations. Give it time to soak through the paper and keep rewetting before trying to remove. If it is vinyl try pulling the vinyl off before wetting some times that works and just leaves the paper backing.

Unless you are skilled at skim coating I think you will cause more problems then you will fix trying to skim coat those walls. Sand the edges, prime and two coats of paint should hide the line pretty well and will look better then a bad skim coat.

Dark colors do not require primer. It depends on what color you are going over them with. Some colors cover better then others.

Jim Bunton
paintr56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 01:04 PM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Thank you everyone - you have been a big help! I'm bound and determined to see that this paint job looks good when I'm done!

Just one quick question Jim. You said, "It depends on what color you are going over them with. Some colors cover better then others."

What colors do I need to consider using primer with first? Dark ones? Light ones? Purple ones or gray ones ? The walls I'm most concerned with are the dark ones like the dark purple, dark blue, and dark red colors.

Sidenote - We have decided to keep the stripes in the living room as we sorta like them and it will save us lots of work, and most important, money. What we are going to do is take the lighter of the two colors and cover everything else in the stairwell and upper walls with it. Then we are going to use one color through the hall, into the den, and into the kitchen which is connected to the den and hall. This will take us from 9 colors down stairs to 3! If I scrape off some of the paint from the lighter color stripe can the paint store match it???

Thanks Again!
iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 05:41 PM   #9
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcalebo View Post
Thank you everyone - you have been a big help! I'm bound and determined to see that this paint job looks good when I'm done!

Just one quick question Jim. You said, "It depends on what color you are going over them with. Some colors cover better then others."

What colors do I need to consider using primer with first? Dark ones? Light ones? Purple ones or gray ones ? The walls I'm most concerned with are the dark ones like the dark purple, dark blue, and dark red colors.

Sidenote - We have decided to keep the stripes in the living room as we sorta like them and it will save us lots of work, and most important, money. What we are going to do is take the lighter of the two colors and cover everything else in the stairwell and upper walls with it. Then we are going to use one color through the hall, into the den, and into the kitchen which is connected to the den and hall. This will take us from 9 colors down stairs to 3! If I scrape off some of the paint from the lighter color stripe can the paint store match it???

Thanks Again!
If the color you will be using has a lot of yellow or red tint in the formula and will be a big change from what is on the wall I would consider a primer. It is hard to give advice with out knowing the colors you have in mind, but in general I lean away from primers for color changes. I am not convinced they save any coats when counting the primer as a coat. Looking at the color of your stripes on my monitor I am not sure if that shows a peach tint to it or more beige. Beiges with out the red cover well peaches not so well. Grays cover well purples usually not so well. Most paint stores need about a square inch sample to get a match.

I hope this helps some. Best of luck with the new place.

Jim Bunton
paintr56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 06:09 PM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Quote:
Originally Posted by paintr56 View Post
If the color you will be using has a lot of yellow or red tint in the formula and will be a big change from what is on the wall I would consider a primer. It is hard to give advice with out knowing the colors you have in mind, but in general I lean away from primers for color changes. I am not convinced they save any coats when counting the primer as a coat. Looking at the color of your stripes on my monitor I am not sure if that shows a peach tint to it or more beige. Beiges with out the red cover well peaches not so well. Grays cover well purples usually not so well. Most paint stores need about a square inch sample to get a match.

I hope this helps some. Best of luck with the new place.

Jim Bunton
Jim - Excellent! We really do appreciate all the great advice. This is going to make this project a lot easier by not second guessing that we did the best we could. If the bank gets off their bottom we could be moving in the first of July which means lots of painting in our very near future! Thanks again to everyone.

Caleb

p.s. I plan on posting pictures of the completed project!
iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 07:51 PM   #11
Tired, Cold, and Damp
 
slickshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 3,089
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcalebo View Post
What colors do I need to consider using primer with first? Dark ones? Light ones? Purple ones or gray ones ? The walls I'm most concerned with are the dark ones like the dark purple, dark blue, and dark red colors.
Dark over light
(and light over dark)
The dark purples, dark blues, and dark reds over light/white I would strongly recommend a gray primer, or one tinted to top coat color
Or use Aura paint (and no primer)...two coats of Aura will cover just about anything
It's more money but it saves the work
slickshift is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 08:28 PM   #12
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Slicksifht you said "Aura paint (and no primer)...two coats of Aura will cover just about anything It's more money but it saves the work." What about SW SuperPaint. I was in the store today and it's supposed to be their best coverage paint and it's on sale (that's the part I like). Do you think it will do as good or almost as good as the BM Aura?

Thanks,
Caleb
iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2008, 08:48 PM   #13
Tired, Cold, and Damp
 
slickshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 3,089
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Need Lots O' Help


Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcalebo View Post
...What about SW SuperPaint.... Do you think it will do as good or almost as good as the BM Aura?
No
Not even close
It's good, don't get me wrong
But the closest SW would be Duration Home or Cashmere
And either would be behind Aura
SuperPaint (interior) would be a (small) step lower than BM's Regal, but above BM's SuperHide
Closest BM to SuperPaint would most likely be SupeSpec



(*Obviously the gung ho SW or BM users/sellers/manufacturers may think that the lower tier of their fave is better than the highest tier of the other brand, so I'm trying to put this in a realistic perspective. As contractors we've had these conversations before, and we try to weed out the Ford/Chevy Coke/Pepsi things when coming to these conclusions.)
slickshift is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2008, 01:11 AM   #14
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Need Lots O' Help


When I asked if SW SuperPaint would work as good as BM Aura I meant specifically in regard to painting over wild colors. My biggest concern is painting over all the crazy colors and not having to do it 100 times. I priced Aura and about had a heart attack. I had a small heart trimmer when I priced the SW SuperPaint on sale.

In your expert opinions... am I (an totally untrained eye) going to be happy with the look and work using SW SuperPaint. Or do I need to take out a second loan on my house to paint it with Aura?

Thanks,
Caleb
iamcalebo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2008, 04:27 AM   #15
paper hanger and painter
 
chrisn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 6,796
Rewards Points: 2,098
Default

Need Lots O' Help


If it is going to take 3 or 4 coats with the SW,would not 2 coats of the Aura be cheaper in the long run?

chrisn is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My Custom In-Wall Entertainment Center Project! With lots of photos!! joseph011 Project Showcase 12 01-03-2011 01:43 PM
Considering Cork for Basement ... LOTS of questions! :) njchan Flooring 5 01-26-2008 08:05 PM
Replace main panel? And lots of other ?s Bcoleman6 Electrical 13 01-22-2008 09:40 AM
Painting bathroom with lots of moisture? DK75 Painting 2 02-08-2006 12:08 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.