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Old 07-02-2011, 06:19 AM   #16
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


As to the cleaning solution
3 parts water
1 part bleach
Add four ounces of powdered tsp per gallon of mixed bleach/water.
TSP does not dissolve in cold water, mix it in hot water then add it in. Add it after the mixing to prevent foaming up.
You should be able to apply it with the pressure washer if it has a soap tip and downstream injector. Let it dwell for 15-20 minutes and rinse, you shouldn't need to scrub.
If you choose the peel away, do ample experimentation before you go whole hog. Be sure you know well how it works before you do large areas.
As to staging, if the top picture is the most difficult area to access, you shouldn't have a problem. We'll cross that bridge when we get to it. Contrary to general work practice, do the easiest, most accessible areas first. You don't want to be learning the routine on a ladder/plank at thirty feet. First you need to develop a plan of action, from stripping methods to prepping the wood, to the finish product. I would choose a small complete area that you can do yourself from start to finish to test your plan and determine which aspects you can do yourself and those you choose to contract out. If you're determined to get it done, you will. In the meantime, I would seek out some solo/one man paint shops who would be willing to work with you on a partial completion, over a period of time basis. They may even be willing to help with some of the difficult access areas. But before you talk to anyone, you need a plan and certainty it will work. You have a lot of work to do, why are you still sitting at the computer? Chop-chop.

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Old 07-02-2011, 11:42 AM   #17
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


Now I'm in trouble.

The wife is excited by the prospect of a colour change. She likes this combo from the Cabot site:



"Bluestone" solid stain (I like the idea of a stain), "Deep Forest" for the doors and shutters, and white trim.

Whaddaya think (aside from "get away from the computer and start working"). As it sits now:



Heading out to buy some paint stripper to test.
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:51 AM   #18
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


Hey Sheridan, you still want to use that brush?

(can't conceal my laughter over here)

Loving the house though GPS. Very nice. From this far away you can't even tell its peeling! Looks great, no need to change anything. LOL
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Old 07-02-2011, 12:54 PM   #19
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Hey Sheridan, you still want to use that brush?

(can't conceal my laughter over here)

Loving the house though GPS. Very nice. From this far away you can't even tell its peeling! Looks great, no need to change anything. LOL
If I waited for a dry and windless day to use a sprayer, it'd never get done.

Yeah, you don't see the peeling from the curb, but as they say: "Good from far, but far from good." lol.
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Old 07-02-2011, 01:50 PM   #20
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


I've handbrushed more sqaures than that, and I have the damaged shoulder, elbow, and wrist to prove it. All in a day's work my friend, all in a day's work. Nice house GSP, very stately looking.
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:28 PM   #21
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


Cedar siding needs to dry once wet through the paint. Someone sealed the boards lap joint with paint, notice most of the damage at the gable end is at that joint. The wet breaks the paint film in layers, look at the top area of those boards, notice the paint at flat board is still attached to paint at the under-lip of the board. Water is trying to get out from behind the board at the lap (as it should) rather than dry outward through the face. I’m guessing they are not back-primed, either: http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/pdf/RainScreen.pdf

Your soffit is blistering due to lack of venting, those 3"circular should be end-to-end to be effective: http://www.lomanco.com/ProductPAGES/CirkVents.html

http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...it-specs.shtml


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Old 07-02-2011, 05:14 PM   #22
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


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Originally Posted by jsheridan View Post
I've handbrushed more sqaures than that, and I have the damaged shoulder, elbow, and wrist to prove it. All in a day's work my friend, all in a day's work. Nice house GSP, very stately looking.
I am with you here, I have never used a sprayer and have painted hundreds of homes this size and bigger. I only have a bad wrist,thumb to show for it.
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:22 PM   #23
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I am with you here, I have never used a sprayer and have painted hundreds of homes this size and bigger. I only have a bad wrist,thumb to show for it.

How much do you guys charge to do this-- paint homes, if you don't mind my asking?
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:31 PM   #24
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How much do you guys charge to do this-- paint homes, if you don't mind my asking?
We're not allowed to discuss price here. Trust me when I tell you that you're imagining it to be much harder and time consuming than it actually is in reality. The actual brushing is the easiest part of a job like that, it's the preparation that's a nightmare, and most costly aspect. I can tell you it wouldn't be cheap.
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:30 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by jsheridan View Post
We're not allowed to discuss price here. Trust me when I tell you that you're imagining it to be much harder and time consuming than it actually is in reality. The actual brushing is the easiest part of a job like that, it's the preparation that's a nightmare, and most costly aspect. I can tell you it wouldn't be cheap.
But it would probably last 10-12 years or better ( not much)
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Old 07-04-2011, 12:26 AM   #26
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


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GSP, you have a number of types of paint failure occurring there. The blistering, where it's falling off in sheets, was probably an area redone when the wood was too wet to repaint, or as stated before, you have vapor barrier issues. Moisture is transferring from the inside through the outside, taking the paint with it. The other failures, checking and cracking, could have a number of causes. Regardless, the best course is complete removal. After complete removal, I would
Wash the house with a solution of trisodium phosphate and bleach, rinse it with some pressure, but not the typical power washing pressure, use about 500 psi.
Allow the surface to fully dry, even if you have to tarp areas of the house to prevent the rain from hitting it, this is critical. Max moisture content is 18%, preferably 15.
Machine sand the entire surface. This is critical. When wood is exposed to the sun, as little as one week, the surface becomes degraded as the sun's UV rays destroys the lignin and the wood fibers begin to separate. This layer of dead wood must be sanded off down to a stable, sound surface. Pressure washing alone does not accomplish this job. Once the wood is sanded and dusted off, use air pressure, it must be primed immediately.
Cover stain is good and spec'd for cedar. However, it dries quickly and thus doesn't penetrate as deeply as other longer oils might. CS suggests over night dry on cedar, so the quick dry aspect doesn't give the edge over longer drying oils. I would look into BM Pentetrating Alkyd Primer or Cabot's Problem Solver Primer, both excellent for cedar applications. Or, you may want to consider chucking the primer/paint and doing a two coat solid stain system, which may prove to be better for you now cost wise, and in the long term because of ease in prep for refinishing.
If you do it over the long term, do it wisely. Do one side at a time, strip it completely, wash it completely, then sand it completely. Prime/stain completely. Remember, after one week the wood begins to degrade, and mildew grows probably as quickly.
All first coats must be thoroughly brushed into the grain, no spraying. Primer must be "massaged" into the wood, especially when it's weathered. Otherwise, it just lays on the surface.
I would look into using Peel Away paint removal system, which would allow you to do whole sides in one fell swoop. Stay close to the forum and keep us posted. Ask questions before you act, don't wait and ask how to correct mistakes. Good Luck.
Very informative post jsheridan!
Two quick questions-
If wood is exposed longer that one week and you put oil primer on, is that a bad thing?

I don't plan on using the Peel Away System but how much is needed to do about 3600 sq. ft?
Just curious.
Also after applying product, how much work is needed to take off all layers of paint. Does it come off easily?
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:19 PM   #27
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My Peeling Clapboard Nightmare


Smoking Gun, it's always good practice to sand any exposed wood prior to priming. It's not that the finish will absolutiely fail if not, it depends. The Forest Products Laboratory states that after as little as one week's exposure, the surface of the wood begins to degrade from UV, and the ability of the surface to hold a primer coat begins to decrease. I'm sure it's a very long and slow process. If you can scrape your fingernail across the grain and pick up loose fibers, the surface is deteriorating. I wouldn't worry so much about it. Just keep an eye on it and spot repair any failure you may have. It's good practice anyway to do a full inspection of your exterior each spring, find anything that has failed, and do spot repair/touch-up.
Just keep it mind for the future to sand any raw wood. You never can tell how long lumber was sitting around before you put it up. Sanding also opens up grain, removes some surface contaminants, and rounds off sharp edges. It's just good practice.
As to the Peel Away, I've only worked with it one time, so I'm not really a good source for your anwers. But, I do know of quite a few people who have used it with good results over the years, enough to recommend it based on that feedback. I also saw a This Old House episode (or that type of show) where they used it on a hundred year old wood sided house with impressive results, as it took it all down to bare wood. That's why I recommended OP do a sample area to see if it could be effective. I do know that applying and removing it involves far less elbow grease than most stripping processes. So, since it does so, I'm sure it's $$$$. Hope that helps.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:11 AM   #28
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jsheridan-
Thanks for the excellent advice.
Everything you said makes perfect sense.
I have done carpentry, worked in a boat factory putting in all the teak woodwork in the 29 foot cabin cruizers, (Long time ago.) Just never thought about the bare wood on siding breaking down so fast from UV rays.
I've been sanding the bare wood after scraping with a carbide scraper (Bought four extra blades.) I'm using an orbitol sander. I was getting ahead of myself with the scraping and sanding. Got a friend that said he would help paint but not the prep work. After the east side was done with prep, I started on south side (Half done with south side). He has been busy and I had to go back and scrape ALITTLE on east side and more sanding. Now it's been two weeks and I'll have to inspect the south sides bare wood and lightly sand where needed.

I had told my wife at the beginning of this project that I was going to do one side at a time.But for other reasons.
I am going to make sure I keep a tight rein on how far the prep work is ahead of the painting. I just need to cordinate some days with the help.

I thank you for the informative advice you've given. It absolutely makes sense!

Last edited by Smokin Gun; 07-05-2011 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:35 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Cedar siding needs to dry once wet through the paint. Someone sealed the boards lap joint with paint, notice most of the damage at the gable end is at that joint. The wet breaks the paint film in layers, look at the top area of those boards, notice the paint at flat board is still attached to paint at the under-lip of the board. Water is trying to get out from behind the board at the lap (as it should) rather than dry outward through the face. Iím guessing they are not back-primed, either: http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/pdf/RainScreen.pdf

Your soffit is blistering due to lack of venting, those 3"circular should be end-to-end to be effective: http://www.lomanco.com/ProductPAGES/CirkVents.html

http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...it-specs.shtml


Gary
Most of the lap joints are sealed with the build-up of paint. Those should be opened up when I strip everything down. I doubt the boards are back-primed, and short of removing all of the clapboards (which I doubt could be done without causing too much damage), I don't see a solution to that problem. The attic is a definite problem--the pitch has sweated out of the rafters due to the huge heat build-up there in the summer. I plan to substantially increase the soffit ventilation with rectangular vents. As for improving the ventilation up top, I've thought about powered fans at the gable end vents, or adding ridge vents.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:39 PM   #30
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The knowledge at our local paint stores is somewhat lacking. The Benjamin Moore people told me not to use an oil-based primer: "Nobody uses that anymore with the new technology." The clerk told me they didn't even have one? Nobody will talk about lead, and nobody carries test kits because: "The concerns about lead are all over-blown. It's not a big deal." There are houses here that are 100+ years old, so I'm sure there is plenty of lead!

I've ordered an infra-red paint stripper, and plan to use that with some of the stripping products (probably Peel-Away and Readi-Strip). I'll have to find an alternate source for the strippers because the local prices are incredible! Probably find a retailer in WA State.

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