molys

Startingover

I had 16 of them in the LR. I didn't cut the tops off, but just used the opposite end of my nail punch and punched them into the wall.

Some were big. Now I worry that if I just spackle that the spackle won't stick to the plastic tops of the molys (which are recessed into the wall).

Since I have to buy Gardz for another room, should I spackle then put a dab of Gardz over the spackle before painting. Or, jab some Gardz into the hole then spackle over it?

Should little spackle areas really be sanded? Since the room is orange peel I don't want smooth little dots all over. I do realize that things which look like glaring mistakes now won't be noticed after it's all done and furniture moved in and new things hung on the walls.

thank you.

sdsester

I would get some 20 minute dry setting type "hot mud" and mix it up to a nice consistency that will not pucker in on you when you fill over the tops of the bolts you recessed. It is not expensive and if you seal it in an airtight container you will find it handy to have for patches. It has better stability and density than spackle.

Use a nice wide drywall knife to reduce the amount of sanding you need to do after. Mix in small batches in your drywall pan.

You will have to prime any drywall patches and even though spackle is supposed to be paintable directly (I seldom used the stuff) I would prime it as well.

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mr. Paint

Another great patching product is One-Pass by Rapid Set. This is an easy-sanding product sold in its dry powder form. Mix only what you need. You can spot-prime the patches with Gardz.

Windows

When I am filling holes in an orange peel wall I sometimes just use caulk as it is easy to mound it and blend it in with the walls. You have to give it more time to set up before painting, and with bigger holes you may need two passes, but you don't have to prime it.

joecaption

Use the hot mud not caulking!

pucks101

I wouldn't use caulk to fill holes- there's too many options available to not do it right . If you're looking for a way to patch little holes, and don't need (or don't want to make) hot mud, just go buy some Drydex.

Windows

The main point here is the walls are textured. For flat walls Drydex or hot mud is perfect; on textured walls that kind of repair stands out like a sore thumb, and I've been in too many homes over the years where repairs have been left like that. The OP can use Drydex and then have the additional step of applying a matching texture (which it is hard to do), or they can take one of the very few painting short-cuts that actually works, and shape the caulking in the hole .

pucks101

I didn't get the impression that the wall was textured. OP mentioned orange peel, which to me is usually the light texture left by rolling on paint, and obviously the bigger the nap, the heavier the orange peel. Assuming that is what he means, I'm still saying hot mud or Dry-dex, roll on a primer, and roll on the paint.

If there is a real texture to the wall, not just a normal orange peel effect, then I have no problem with using caulk to mimic the texture over the small holes, and in fact I may even try it.

Startingover

thanks everyone.

Going to HD today (as I seem to have to do every day) and will buy some Hot Mud and Gardz.

Also near a receptical I saw a lump and pulled the edge and a 2" X 3" pc of brown cardboard stuff pulled away. The lump is gone, but now I think that may have been part of the 30 yr old drywall. I pushed hard to make sure it wasn't a bad patch job over a hole and the wall is firm.

I'll touch up everything today with the same stuff.

Finally will be ready to paint.

Windows

For small holes and similar in textured walls it really is a good solution.